ocei77

Yes. Any small differences would be accommodated by the final angle turns. In addition those of us who do not have accurate wrenches are never at exactly the specified number and do not have issues. O.

Download FSM. New Gen FAQ sticky, 2nd page under my name. Will give you what you need to know. O.

You don't use a gasket on the oil pump, just sealant. Your choice, I use anaerobic. O.

Also pull the cam sensor. I've had two instances where the contact is covered in oil and dirt and would not pass all the signals. just clean it. o.

Test the coil. Sounds like it is bad. Our coils are paired. 1 and 2, use the front section and 3,4 the rear. O.

Spray with pb and use a BFH. Careful to not hit the wheel studs. O.

The 05 is made the same. There are two circlips. The first is just inside the fat housing. Once the boot is removed and you clean it some in gas, you will see it. A screwdriver will suffice to pry it out. Once that is removed, when you align the trunions with the cutouts, the cup will come off, allowing you to remove the circlip on the end of the axle and then the trunion. Now you can replace the boot. Only use CV joint grease on refill. Here is link to 2005 fsm : http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/ O.

Contact your parts source O.

IIRC there are two. Just pull the stick and take it to a local auto/hardware store. This is not a critical part that has to dealer supplied. O.

I don't have complete info, but I have had to do some of the same. Perhaps one who does this a lot will chime in. Meanwhile, the bottom pieces of trim on the quarters will pop off, as does the trailing edge trim.The top trim is secured by 8mm nuts from the inside. You'll need a deep socket here. The access trim will just pop off. Don't pry on the glass with anything hard. You can heat the metal of the body inside the car with a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, then push the wire through from the inside. I used a tire plug tool. You can then saw the wire to separate the glass from the adhesive. You have to make a way to secure the inside while doing this or a 2nd person. O.

As far as I can see there was no 97 Forester, not even in Europe. However, the Forester is just a wagon built on an Impreza flatform and I would start there. There are too many options for me to even think about answering. If you will go to a previous post started by grossgary on opposed forces website, there is a link there to this site that will guide you that should answer your question. Find your engine and drive configuration and click on the part number. Then click on usage info, this will give all the models that use the same part. O.

My link still works. I've had this happen when I've typed it in. You have to find an older link. If you can't, pm me your e mail and I'll send one. Too bad the board doesn't allow copy and paste. O.

All depends on what you mean by briefly. A few blinks are normal. If it blinks 16 times, then there is a stored fault code. This fault can be read (not by an OBD scanner). Do search under handshake method, or reading tranny codes to get the exact one. O.

Is it possible that he did a recent T belt change and broke a tooth from the crank sensor? O.

I am with Texan here, if you can do do the work yourself. For some it won't make a difference, but 30 less HP, with a wagon and hilly terrain or trying to use a trailer is felt. In addition to having more history with the same engine. O.

STI rims up to 07 were 5x100 IIRC. 17" rims will fit as long as the offset is good. Do some more research on LGT.com. They have a nice FAQ in their wheel and tire section. Do the basics, tune up, injector cleaner, etc. O.

Stant Xactstat 48457 is exactly the same as the oem unit and cheaper. O.

WalMart. Goodyear Viva 3 . 16" sizes now $69, + balancing( not sure of their price). Quiet ,good tread life and good in all seasons. O.

If he has to pull no 3 he would have to pull the engine. The access is via the oil separator plate. Prayerfully it is as Adventure says. I would never go this deep into an engine w/o pulling it first. Smurfsack get a fsm from online and check out some youtube videos. You can do it. O.

Go to car-part.com. Input your info and it will give parts that are compatible. If it was me, I'd either just put more lube in there and close up the ends, or replace the boots. Latter will probably require an alignment afterwards. O.

Sounds like the coil plug. Have to look at mine when I get outside. Will edit if necessary. O.

Get the t belt and idlers/water pump kit first. sometimes they come with the metal gasket. The passenger side stays put unless you hit it. The drivers side intake is under tension, where you just go slow until you're on point. A spring clip would help here until you go around the exhaust sprocket. The cam bolts are 17mm. If you break the tension on the crank bolt first, then just line up your timing marks, they won't move much if you just give a sharp rap to the breaker to unloosen the crank bolt again. For a FSM go to New Gen FAQ. Second page under my name is a link. Rotate the crank by hand a few revolutions after you pull the tensioner pin. This to make sure all is well and that the timing marks align again. The marks on the belt will not. Welcome. O.

upper left corner. The plate should be marked. O.

yes. Can be sealed with only sealant. If the o ring is in once piece, reuse it and put sealant on cover. O.

Get the new allen type bolts, bought separately. Might as well reseal the access plate on the opposite side. Sealant alone will suffice for both. O.