ocei77

Google the code. It is a fuel too lean condition. Lots of possible causes. Will give you things to check. O.

Have had good fortune with Goodyear Vivas. Good tread life and traction all around. Wal Mart @$90 ea in 16 in sizes. O.

FSM is available. New Gen FAQ Sticky 2nd page under my name. If the same as 97: 4 LBlue, 3 L Red, 2 L Grn, 1 Brown. Double check. O.

PM sent O.

Any codes? Pull the dipstick and see if it stops. Speedometer working? O.

Download copy of FSM. Go to New Gen FAQ 2nd page under my name. The complete wiring diagram is there. Unfortunately the gods that be don't allow us to copy and paste. O.

They will fit. The only issue is the wheel well clearance. They may require rolling the fenders. see : rimsntires.com. You will also be going 7% faster than indicated. ie 64 when 60 is shown. O.

When you look into the tranny you will see the tabs that mate with the notches on the TC. Insert TC, lift an rotate. keep upward pressure as you rotate. It will catch. Keep rotating pushing inwards. It will jump @ two more times. It is fully seated when the outside mounting tabs are about 3/8 of an inch from the tranny block looking from above Before mounting the engine. Give it a few insurance turns to make sure it is fully seated. O.

check opposedforces.com. Get your car and part then afterclicking on the part number you will see usage info. Will list cars that interchange. Could also check car-part.com. It may list it also. O.

The only time this happened to me (not with a Subaru), was indeed related to heat. The solenoid was getting heat soaked and would not work until it cooled. I put a wet rag on it to help cool it and immediate start.. Worth a try.. Replace the contacts and plunger(($10-15 on E Bay) rather than buy a complete starter. O.

+1^ Note the cam and crank marks. The belt marks will not line up again. O.

Yea, that is what happened to my steel terminal. Seemed like the battery post was too small in diameter. Tighten the clamp as much as I could some time ago, but ran out of room to tighten any further. Clamp had not been real tight for some time. Common issue with oem cables and third party batteries. I have used a length of solid copper wire, breaking it off after tightening and the prong from an appliance plug to fill in the gap. O.

After running a while does the light go out? If so, it's related to condensation in the brake booster hose. In this case remove hose and spray with brake cleaner. O.

First you don't need to remove the strut bolts to do an axle. Turn axle so the bevel side faces you. Punch the pin out. Don't turn the wheel. 3/16 punch. 32mm for the axle nut. Good breaker bar (forget the harbor freight one for this), plus a cheater pipe.(that axle nut is REALLY on there) Remove the sway bar bolt. Remove cotter pin from lower ball joint and unscrew the castle nut (19mm). Pry the control arm down( you're not trying to remove the ball joint, so don't remove the bolt that secures it). Now you can swing the hub assembly out. Just pull and it will come out of the tranny and tap the axle side out. New axle bevel has to face the same way. Roll pin into bevel side. Axle side in. If the roll pin won't go all the way through ,the splines are off 180 deg. The control arm up, it will stay in place. Tighten all nuts. Torque the axle nut (@140 ft lbs) then stake it. Before removing the strut bolts at any time (especially the upper) use a chisel to mark the nut and the bolt, this way they can go back the way they came out, saving you a realignment. If no impact gun, a 19mm to hold one side while you wrench on the other. 6 pt sockets and 1/2" drive are best. You need a penetrant of some type. The fsm is available in the sticky above, 2nd page under my name. O.

I use a c clamp and compress til I feel a lot of resistance, hang it vertically and do someting else and repeat til done. Have never had an issue. O.

OOps! O.

The old style two piece which many of us prefer (the hydraulic part seldom goes bad). Why?, less mfg cost. O

There are other tests to be made. Google Subaru DTC codes and check yours. Make sure the small metal line from the EGR to the solenoid valve is clear also. You can test the solenoid by connecting the green plugs under the dash and turning switch on. Listen for the clicking to confirm operation. Don't forget to unplug afterwards. In the future please start with more specifics.ie Engine, mileage. O.

What year OB? seems like the recovery and cap fitting are on the wrong side. You can always run extra line for the tranny cooler. O.

jack it up and remove the heat shield bolts (you'll probably have to cut them off). This way you can raise the shield enough to get an open end onto the bung and another on the sensor itself. If you don't a good 19mm open end, a small pipe wrench will work also. Spray with PB and try to tighten a bit to break the tension. Then unloosen. O.

any codes? Sounds like the IAC. Any coolant issues? O.

You have the marks correct. Is the tooth count on the belt correct? 44 from crank mark to passenger cam and 40.5 to driver cam. If this is correct then something is unplugged. Check crank , cam sensors and IAC hose to intake. O.

Use emery boards to clean the contacts. Unfortunately I left my diagram of pins for the harness where I won't get back to for a few days. In either case looking at the back of the connector #1 is Br, 2 is LG, 3 is LR and 4 is YL. Check resistance and see if one/more are much higher than the others. This may help you to narrow down if only one or two pulsing low. O.

Tho this issue is resolved. In times like these,I try to get a pipe wrench on it. If there's only enough room to make an 1/8 of a turn its generally enough to break it free. O.

You buy the ones that fit the engine. SOHC or DOHC. But these are for people who run big hp. Why spend over $100 on head bolts that don't need to be replaced on a run of the mill engine? O.