ocei77

That's not a rear main leak. Thats overspray from the plate. I'd leave it. If you decide to do it, the seal should be flush or a hair below the boss. When doing seals of this type I use a small block of wood which spans the diameter and tap it around the circumference. O.

Was going through some old favorites and ran across this chart which should be helpful to many. O. EJ_cr_matrix (1).pdf

Stant #48457 is the one you want. It's called Xactstat. O.

Repair options depend on the time needed. What is bad are your contacts in the solenoid. Replace cost $10-15 plus time to get it to you. Immediate replacement, a starter from salvage, cost ???? ( I've never bought one) As an aside, the starter motor rarely goes bad, it's always the solenoid. O.

The grill has pop it type fasteners. If yyou remove the radiator supports the fan assembly will tilt away and you can squueeze the locks to release. There are 4 on the of the grill and two in the middle. These you hope they come out easily, but most probably these tabs will break. There is a ten mm hidden there. Is a total of 4 10's that have to be removed. O.

Year and model of car? Try adjusting the switch, it should not be in constant contact with the pedal, There should be a gap. Minimal, but a gap. O.

You have your answer. Change the crank and cam sensors. O.

Get the belt kit, but just install the belt and start. Will tell you if you've bent valves. If not, remove then add the idlers etc. Leave the rear main alone. 99.5 times out of a 100 it's the oil separator plate. Also do the o ring on the drivers side piston pin access plate. O.

Bosch is ok for the O2. They have been the OEM supplier at one time or another. Denso and NTK are ok also. O.

Check that the large hose(@1" dia) from the IACV to air intake is attached. O.

A small clarification. PZEV did not start in Ca. Ca had the strictest emissions standards and Subaru's response was the PZEV. This started in 04 and early 05, so this is the odd header design that Subaru first used. Other mfg have different names. It's the CA emissions std that other states have adopted. O.

Sorry won't fit. The rear from the 03=04 OB are 11.3" in diameter. Your rotors are either 10.2/10.5", (see cars101,com). They would require a new caliper and bracket and 16" wheels. I'd take them for possible future upgrades. O.

You don't by any chance have installed the old style tensioner do you? All the slack is out? The 40.5 is the tooth count you should have from the crank sprocket mark. O.

Try Amazon or Ebay. O.

oops

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

Raise the car as much as you can on stands to give you room to maneuver. A ratcheting open end from above also works as long as the heater hoses are not connected. O.

Sensor 1 Bank 2. First cat, first sensor on passenger side. Bank 1 is driver side. A search will get you the fsm for that year. O.

You probably have 5! The 04 and early 05 was the first pzev engine for the CA emissions states. As such they borrowed the header design from the H6 engine. You should have two equal length headers each with their own cat and a cat after the Y. The first 2 cats have 2 O2 sensors and the 3rd one has 1. O.

Use some type of suction in the spark plug hole, to get as much as you can out. A hair dryer should get the rest. O.

As Matt167 stated. Heads, intake, and everything related to ignition timing from your DOHC to the SOHC EJ 251-253 from 01-05. Need to swap the dipstick tube also. May have to change the flexplate. Should be no codes, for the ecu will only see what your 98 harness tells it. Any codes you may get will not be related to the swap. If your new block does not have egr, there is a workaround. Do a search for how. O.

Download the FSM and get all the info you need there. It does work on coolant temp.So the ect sensor must not be defective and the iac itself should not be carboned up. O.

Make sure the hose in the overflow bottle is cut at a slant so that it doesn't just suction to the bottom. There was a TSB about this a while back. O.