ocei77

wire wheel , anti seize and reuse. Auto stores carry them, but you may have to use washers. O.

Get OEM,NGK or other high quality wires. O.

1) Put tee on driver side hose, it is the in side. 2) There is a special procedure for bleeding the system] of air. Try a search for Burping, should find a few. Not sure if your radiator has a bleeder screw. If it does, would be on passenger side top. 3) There is a drain petcock on the lower passenger side. I find it easier to undo the lower hose. When filling, start with fluid into the upper radiator hose. Then radiator. The EJ engines Tstat is on the bottom of the block so very little goes through until it opens. By then you have a large air pocket which will take a lot of time to be rid of. Use oem or Stant's Xactstat for T stat. O.

In the FSM, mechanical components section , then heater. You can probably figure it out from there. O.

Go to www.opposedforces.com. b12 series. Intake and supply system. Also in New FAQ sticky above page 2 under my name there is a link to FSM. O.

Yes they are the same for all the EJ engines at least up to '07 for sure. If you can measure it properly. should be no reason why a generic one won't work. O.

Loosen bolt and rotate the cord then retighten. Generally the cord from the sensor ends up @1 o'clock position. Obviously clear code after you rotate.The run. O.

Its stamped on the back of the rotor,. The front is 22mm IIRC. O.

Although you may have had good experience with Evergreen, I would not use them for this case. The EJ25 requires an MLS type of HG. Subaru HG are only about $40-45 ea. from the dealer, online even cheaper. Six Star or Cometic would be my next choice. Use the Subaru HG designed for their turbo, part ending in 642. Gates T belt kit with pump sb about $200.. This is not where to go cheap. What engine do you have in your car? The 99OB had a dohc ej25 while the kit you listed is for an Ej22! You do not need head bolts. You will need the exhaust, intake manifold and probably the VC gaskets. You will also need the cam seals. A little more searching will show better quality parts. O.

It's time for a change. The interval is 100K or 105 months, whichever comes first. Don't wait. O.

If it is the header flange, it may be able to be repaired.. I'd fix or replace this first, swapping the O2 sensor as needed.. Then clear the code. If the code returns, then I'd do the sensor. O.

They will not change unless you have the calipers also. The GT rotors are 12.3 F and 11.3 Vented R, while the 06 has 11.5 F and 10.6 solid rear. O.

Best to have yours turned. This way all of the journals will be one size. A lot easier to get bearings this way. If yours is rash, check craigslist for a part out or bad engine. O.

Since BustedFinger has that part of it's site down, the best idea I have is to try over on NASIOC or RS25. O.

According to opposedforces. The rear is not a strut in the normal sense, but a shock with a high mounted perch seat. It has a pass through bolt hole on the bottom. Will have to check with the mfg of springs and talk to them re this application. O.

Extra long needle nose pliers. Hemostats/ locking fisherman's pliers (to remove hooks) may have enough grip to pull it out. O.

Haven't watched the video, but all you really need is the 10-12 in socket extension. A swivel joint would help, but not mandatory. The only thing you should need to remove is the airbox period. Anybody that works on cars needs a magnetic pickup. Just note the angle of the cord and replace similarly. O.

Very easy. Should be a youtube video around. All you'll really need are a jack, some stands , sockets and open end wrenches O.

Check your harness connections. No bent or fouled pins, or torn insulation. There are resistance values between the ecu and harness. Check under Subaru DTC codes for more info in this regard. Did you get the direct fit or the universal type? O.

Yes. When a knock is detected, the ecu pulls timing. Replacements are under $20 on Ebay. Just buy one from a US based firm as it'll take 3 weeks or more otherwise. O.

Our bearings are sealed. As stated run until you know something is wrong, then replace. O.

I know never to put sealant on the seal. But I was responding to CCRINC statement as to never put sealant around seals. I am sure he meant on the seal itself, but the unititiated may misread that statement. Will never do in this lifetime as many as they do, but I have done enough to know what not to do. O.

Doesn't the fsm say to put sealant on the pump, which includes around the oil seal before install? O.

In the 07 and 08, the cat is very close to the header and in the front. I believe the 09 is the same. You can see it from the hood area. just follow the connectors, one orange(to front) and one gray. They are held in place by a pop it to a small bracket. A 22mm wrench is needed to remove. You may have to move some of the plastic underfairing to get to it. O.

There was a similar recent post. A search which show a lot of options. Don't know the bore but you can easily use a 17x7 rim. A 7.5 is pushing it. You can go down to about a 48 offset with a 7". Your tire profile will be a major consideration in this regard. Without rolling fenders the widest you can go is 225/45. Go to this site (see attached) and it will let you know. O. rimsntires.txt