ocei77

I'd run the math and see how much your CR is changed with the .046 difference. If the changes are acceptable to you, then go for it. The skirt length will tend to be noisier until warmed up. Why did you not just get another block? ? what is the end desire for your build? O.

Once twisted the circuit is always complete. It will work regularly whenever the battery is disconnected again. I replaced the toggle switch on a 98 Impreza, but the female driver had to move her seat up all the way, constantly hitting the switch. I just twisted the ends and removed the toggle. No more problems in this area. O.

This happens a lot with pre 2000 Subys when the battery is disconnected. Either replace button or twist ends to make constant contact. It is disconcerting when you're driving and the door locks start cycling! O.

Oops. My error. O.

when the speedo stops working you will get a code for the tranny lockup. The computer relies on the speedo signal to control the tranny. Fix or replace the speedo. O.

^+1. Std gear oil is fine. You don't want the limited slip type. O.

Try a search for speedometer. Many times it is a ground wire that breaks on the circuit board. It shows where to look and fix, if that is the issue. O.

There is a difference in the 99 2.2 harness. The ECT and gauge wires were combined while before they were separate. O.

Go here: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp for fit etc O.

the torx screws on the tranny hump require the security type. vise grips will work. Careful when you remove the control cables. There are small e clips which are easy to lose. Take your time and plan on an all day affair. Don't drop the steering column until you absolutely have to, it will be in the way. There are hard to see screws on the left of the panel underside. Use your fsm and count to make sure you have them all. O.

Is your baffle door opening? If the coolant level is correct(check it) it is not the core that's the problem. Make sure all your fuses are good. O.

Direct swap, no need to replace intake. You will need the Y pipe from the 2.2 to match the heads. If cars are auto, you also need to swap the 2.5 flex plate onto the 2.2 block. Replace the separator plate on rear with the updated metal one. Do search for swap and you'll get a lot more info. You can also download the fsm for future reference. If you don't know the engine history now would be a great time to do the t belt and idlers. If over 200k, do the water pump too. O.

If the level is correct, you have moisture freezing in the vacuum line. Remove hose run a little gas through it and let it dry thoroughly before attaching. O.

No offense, but since you bought this car new, refer to the manual or call your dealer. O.

That is what you have to use. The first two are generally a little tighter. Follow the sequence in the fsm, break each about 90 deg. then go back and finish unthreading them. Once the tension is broken and you make the first few turns, if you have an impact wrench it will make the unscrewing easier. They are loooong threads Do not use the impact to do any type of final tightening. Just enough to seat or unthread. If you've mistakenly completely unthreaded a few, just insert and torque to about 50 ft lbs, then break the others. O.

Use the search feature with "swap" and you'll find all you need to know. O.

As p73 said, the axle stub is in the wrong position. If the tranny side did not move, just make sure the dimpled side is where you are inserting the pin. If you removed it from the top, insert it from the top this will maintain the hole alignment. I once did what you are doing and couldn't figure out why it didn't go back in. Time and frustration got me and I temporarily inserted a nail and bent it. Thought more at length later and rotated the stub and voila! I just took a 12 inch 1x1 piece of wood, drilled a hole an inch down a bit smaller than the punch and tapped the punch into it. Easy, firm and disposable. O.

Use a strut compressor which has the lock pins. You can do a rental from Advance Auto/ similar shop and they will refund the cost when returned. These are completely safe. I dropped a compressed unit and noting unusual happened. Knowing I was going to use them again, I purchased a pair ($60 from Advance) and have been completely satisfied with the decision. O.

when replacing the struts, you will have to cut the tab that secures the brake line in order to remove it. You will also have to notch the new strut to accept the clip (or zip tie) to attach the brake line. Unless you feel like disconnecting all the lines and have Soooooo much fun bleeding the system. O.

Also, the washer is direction specific. The larger flat side goes to the nut. If reversed, it will leak. O.

IIRC the Calif. spec belt has the 105k change interval and was cheaper than the Fed spec unit which had a 60k change interval. No other differences outside of construction material. O.

Have only encountered this code two times. A slightly bent dipstick was grounding out on the solenoid body when inserted. Replaced stick. The tach was malfunctioning and the tcu couldn't gauge engine speed. Fixed ground issue on circuit board. Others may have aid in this area. O.

Gates. I have always had good fortune with theimportexperts on ebay also. Loctite is not needed, just torque to at least 130ft lbs. O.

That is the serial number for the engine. The vin is on the flat space in your picture. You have to clean it thoroughly. It looks like the old dot matrix print. O.