ocei77

Make sure the total length of the spliced wires are close. There have been two different styles of connectors on the knock sensor tho. O

It was the original HG material. E bay HG kits are trash. No form a gasket. Yes on reusing head bolts. Hopefully you still have the oem units. If not....... O.

The car and ecm is a 96. Outback. The engine is a 96 EJ22. O.

No need to repin. The 95 ej22 is compatible with ej25d ecu's from 96-98. I "assume" the 96 was omitted because its map is slightly different as it was the first year of the EJDOHC which ran on premium fuel. I have not heard of any people who have swapped and find that mpg is an issue. In fact I have a 96 swapped OB and it gets 25 mpg highway. You will get the higher rev limit no matter what. O.

According to tire calculator :they will be .9/10 of an inch taller. You will have to see if you fender room. www.rimsntires.com//specspro.jsp O.

Headers without mods like cams on an NA engine are not worth the expense. O.

^+! Drain and fill block from upper radiator hose first. Then do the rest. With the EJ thermostats on the bottom of the block filling from the radiator will not allow enough coolant to pass into the block via the jiggle valve. (another reason to use oem here or Stant's Xactstat) Leave radiator cap off overnight to allow trapped air to percolate up. Sometimes it is a real pita. O.

can't offer much re led's. Check your coolant level and do the burp procedure again. Sounds like trapped air. O.

I'd run the math and see how much your CR is changed with the .046 difference. If the changes are acceptable to you, then go for it. The skirt length will tend to be noisier until warmed up. Why did you not just get another block? ? what is the end desire for your build? O.

Once twisted the circuit is always complete. It will work regularly whenever the battery is disconnected again. I replaced the toggle switch on a 98 Impreza, but the female driver had to move her seat up all the way, constantly hitting the switch. I just twisted the ends and removed the toggle. No more problems in this area. O.

This happens a lot with pre 2000 Subys when the battery is disconnected. Either replace button or twist ends to make constant contact. It is disconcerting when you're driving and the door locks start cycling! O.

Oops. My error. O.

when the speedo stops working you will get a code for the tranny lockup. The computer relies on the speedo signal to control the tranny. Fix or replace the speedo. O.

^+1. Std gear oil is fine. You don't want the limited slip type. O.

Try a search for speedometer. Many times it is a ground wire that breaks on the circuit board. It shows where to look and fix, if that is the issue. O.

There is a difference in the 99 2.2 harness. The ECT and gauge wires were combined while before they were separate. O.

Go here: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp for fit etc O.

the torx screws on the tranny hump require the security type. vise grips will work. Careful when you remove the control cables. There are small e clips which are easy to lose. Take your time and plan on an all day affair. Don't drop the steering column until you absolutely have to, it will be in the way. There are hard to see screws on the left of the panel underside. Use your fsm and count to make sure you have them all. O.

Is your baffle door opening? If the coolant level is correct(check it) it is not the core that's the problem. Make sure all your fuses are good. O.

Direct swap, no need to replace intake. You will need the Y pipe from the 2.2 to match the heads. If cars are auto, you also need to swap the 2.5 flex plate onto the 2.2 block. Replace the separator plate on rear with the updated metal one. Do search for swap and you'll get a lot more info. You can also download the fsm for future reference. If you don't know the engine history now would be a great time to do the t belt and idlers. If over 200k, do the water pump too. O.

If the level is correct, you have moisture freezing in the vacuum line. Remove hose run a little gas through it and let it dry thoroughly before attaching. O.

No offense, but since you bought this car new, refer to the manual or call your dealer. O.

That is what you have to use. The first two are generally a little tighter. Follow the sequence in the fsm, break each about 90 deg. then go back and finish unthreading them. Once the tension is broken and you make the first few turns, if you have an impact wrench it will make the unscrewing easier. They are loooong threads Do not use the impact to do any type of final tightening. Just enough to seat or unthread. If you've mistakenly completely unthreaded a few, just insert and torque to about 50 ft lbs, then break the others. O.

Use the search feature with "swap" and you'll find all you need to know. O.