ocei77

A search of Advance show they sell the Fel-Pro set for 10.99. Fel-Pro no MS 97055 O.

My vote is for the hanger bushings. They wear out with age and will cause this type of noise and the gearbox engages or as the car changes speed speed rapidly. O.

It does not have a cmos type battery. The computer is starting from zero and has to learn everything each time. If you wish you can get one of those units that plug into the lighter and keeps a small charge in the system. O.

You can't tell from the markings. The 2001 is a 52mm crank and the 96 is 48. Also the thrust bearing ( the one with the flanges) is in position 5 on the 01 and 3 on the 96. The first group of letters gives the tolerances for the crank. A is std. B=.03, C=.05 and D= .25. This is all listed on the engine spec page in the fsm. The four others are the rod bearing tolerances.. Haven't figured out those, except that the first being all I's says they are at least the same. This is part of the reason why rebuilding is so cost prohibitive. In order to use the same bearings, the crank must be machined. Subaru does sell crank bearings individually, but you better be sure of the measurements. You won't be able to return them. Rod bearings only come in sets. O.

Just keep track of your electrical connections. Especially the ones that are around the TCU on the hump. ( You need torx security sockets to get the bolts there). Look carefully at the fsm re: screws that secure the air bag and dash. Some are hidden. If the dash does not lift with finger pressure, you still have a bolt in there. Don't drop the steering wheel until the last possible moment. It gets in the way. Best to have an extra pair of hands to guide the dash in and out. It's odd weight and bulky.

Last quote I got ( 2 years ago) was $600. It's at least a 4 hour job with someone familiar with Subarus. If not,, more. Requires a complete dash removal and cross brace, just to get to heater box. Torx security sockets are needed to remove the TCU from the hump. Not a fun job, but a necessary one. Took me a little over 3 hours to just get the dash out. In 85 deg heat and high humidity! The adhesive that is used to locate the box, just did not want to let go in that heat. O.

Does the egr valve move when you rev it? That little hole gets a lot of build up. And also the hole inside the egr where the egr pipe joins the egr itself. If you need to remove the egr brasstube , you should be able to just break it free with visegrips. If you need complete access. First, remove the egr itself , then doubling up on the nuts and turning the inner one, the mounting studs will back out giving complete access on the egr pipe. O.

pm me your e mail and I'll send a 2008 fsm. Too large to attaché here. O.

Make sure the u joints in the steering rack are greased. O.

Hose from the manifold crossover pipe goes to left/topmost heater hose. Water bypass to the other. for future ref:: www.main.experiencetherave.com- /Subaru_manual_scans/ O.

According to www.opposedforces.com , all Subarus, from 92-98 used the same hub, plus the 99 Impreza's and Foresters. The only difference is whether it had ABS or not. The ABS units having the tone ring attached. For fsm go to my post in New FAQ sticky O.

ref to fsm: www.main.experiencetherave.com-/subaru_manuals_scans attached is pdf to test coil Service Procedure Ignition Coil.pdf

97 Legacy is 58 ft lbs +/- 11. Yours should be the same. Go to the FAQ sticky and under my name there is a link to the fsm. O.

Can't even begin to tell you how much I depress the clutch in stop and go traffic. I am sure they didn't fully disengage the clutch. They thought it was down but wasn't. If you live in a metro area with a lot of traffic, there just is no other way. O.

If the other hash marks are lined up then you are off 2 teeth. Very rough running, sometimes not at all. Realign. If you do not have fsm. Go to my post in Sticky under new gen FAQ. Follow link. O.

All Subaru engines from 1997 on are interference. In addition the 96 2.5DOHC. May I ask what parts are you ordering where this makes a difference? O.

See: www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp. this will show all you need to know. Use 55 deg offset for wheels. O.

You'll have to do a little search for some features, such as the aux input as it was a second connector that the 1990 harness won't have.

What do you mean you'd do it if were yours. She's your sister! Blood is supposed to be thicker than water.

Before I changed my crank sensor, I double checked my timing and it is off. Will have to wait until I get back to the garage on Mon to reset. I wanted to change the crank sensor because that controls spark. If it is failing you can get sporadic, but consistent misfires. It's not a common failure, but I was going down my list. So, check your timing.

I'd do the T stat (oem or Stant Xactstat only) and radiator cap. If that fixes the overheating issue, then go on to the T belt etc. A breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter, will pop the crank bolt loose.

Am having similar issues tracking down a misfire on a 96OB. Have done all that you have done. My next item is changing the crank sensor. I'd check your fuel pressure since you have the ability to do so. I also notice that you have not changed your fuel filter. Do so. A partially gunked up filter will not let fuel flow consistently.Unless you can rule this out, a fuel pressure test won't be conclusive. O.

I have heard of many things owners have done to finally get their engine separated. Some procedures like the above is not something the average person has or can do. I have only had two instances where the engine has been stuck in the approximately 12-18 engines I've had to remove. What has worked in those instances and something that everyone has access to is a simple bottle jack. Place some wood against the firewall. The piston against a projection on the block and pump. It works like a charm. Everytime. O.

Especially on the 2.2 I would look into the T stat ( how old?), radiator cap and a possible oncoming failure of the water pump. Do the simple stuff first. If it comes to the water pump, do it along with your t belt and idlers. O.

If it's an auto and the belt is still there, the easiest way to pop the crank bolts is to put the screwdriver through the bolt hole on passenger side above axle. this will prevent the engine from turning and be a piece of cake. A manual will need some sort of strap wrench, or a 12mm 6pt socket on a 3/8 breaker on the flywheel bolt. Turn engine till the bar rests against the housing and go as above. O.