ocei77

No need to remove fuel relay or crank afterwards. VERY little gas comes out. You'll get a small squirt as you remove the line, but the rest(maybe 1/2 oz if that much) just dribbles. Just elevate the line. O.

You do need to swap the flexplates. O.

a ratcheting 14mm would help a lot with those stud nuts plus many other things. With the car jacked up high on stands, I've even been able to deal with the driver side nut from under the car. That is if I didn't want to pop the roll pin and pull the axle out. Generally the weight of the engine pops it loose. If not, instead of screwdrivers and putty knives, I just use a bottle jack with a piece of wood against the firewall. On install I use 2 blocks of wood under the bell housing to raise it up. Only about 2-3 in long and an inch or so high. Pushed back so the front is flush with the housing. Aids in getting those mount bolts clear. Alternative is to jack up the tranny with wood on the jack. A bolt with large washers will work to attach the chain to the engine mount loop. Watch so that the tension on the chain doesn't put pressure against the tps. O.

See my post in New Gen FAQ sticky above. Ref to manual there. O.

You'll have to look up the wiring for your Panasonic to figure out what Panasonic uses them for. Go online. Here is ref for Suby wiring. O. Audio System.pdf

Go to www.opposedforces.com /parts. Will list part #'s. From there you can go to the part itself and figure out sizes.,etc. Unfortunately we cannot imbed the link. Sometimes the typed link will work and sometimes not, for whatever reason. O.

Why a smaller pan? How much smaller? Will you check level consistently. Being less in qty., your oil will break down faster, so you'll have to change more often. You can do either the block or the pan,, but since the engine is out, it's so easy to do the pan. The choice is yours. O.

Gas and a green scrub sponge. A plastic scraper. Wire wheel on a drill. All will work. Get the oem metal gasket or just use plain sealant with no gasket. Don't use a fiber gasket. O.

Go to legacygt.com forum. 2nd generation, then suspension faqs in the sticky. Will give you a lot of info. You'll probably be changing tires, but you have to if going to another suby's struts. The 205/70/15 which are standard on most OB's will rub. Know the info is out there on spring rates, just can't remember where ATM. The OB generally weigh @100lbs more than the sedan. O.

In addition to cleaning the IAC, you need to check for vacuum leaks. Most generally spray carb cleaner and see if engine surges at any point. If after verifying there are no leaks and you have to replace, go to salvage and get one. Clean it and install. Too pricey for new. O.

the correct name is oil cooler pipe, The bypass pipe goes from water pump and tees into the IACV and heater input. see

Download the fsm from sticky. All info you'll need including electrical is in there. O.

Put a screwdriver behind the screw and put pressure on it as you unscrew it with another. Alternatively you can use a grip pliers to turn it as you pull on it. As a last resort you can cut it off with a hacksaw or cut off wheel. O.

^+1 Go over your hoses for cracks etc. Check the water bypass pipe t for rust and/holes. You already have a metal separator plate, but I would reseal it since it's accessible. O.

See attached. Follow link to your vehicle copy and paste into browser. O. opposed forces.txt

Dealer only. @$38-40 O.

for ref: do search in new gen sticky for fsm. Will answer your questions. O.

Valvoline synthetic. No issues and with noticeably slicker gear changes. O.

my pleasure O.

see cars101.com cargo measurements for 2014 Forester O.

Also make sure your green test connectors are not plugged in under the dash. This would make the fans cycle also. O.

I know the issue. I just use a 3/8 socket with a breaker bar or an adapter to the 3/8 from 1/2. Whichever was handier at the moment. Generally the 1/2 adapter so I can use my impact wrench to wind the bolts out. O.

For most drivers D & S are for bling purposes only. We don't ( can't) drive non turbo cars to get any real benefit. If you are in the mind set to just go for it, I'd go with reputable types from e bay sellers, ie: No unheard of brands. O.

use a 3/8 socket and ext with the adapter to 1/2 unless you have a 3/8 size breaker bar. O.

Replacement of betl etc is 10 yrs /100K mileage. Whichever comes first. Insofar as the tensioner, is yours one or two piece? If two piece, replace the roller only. O.