ocei77

Haven't done all the suggestions yet, so that is the reason I have been slow to update. Immediate return of code YES. Cam and crank sensors are fully tightened. The cam sensor has been cleaned with carb cleaner, will do crank tomorrow. All installed and tight. I half checked the timing belt ( only checking the alignment of Bank two and the crank mark. Will pull all to check that all three are aligned.)

Car 2005 Legacy. CA emissions. Short block from 2003 recently swapped. Got P340 cam sensor code. Never had before swap. Pulled connector to check for 5 volts. No 5 volts, but the car started and runs w/o a hiccup!!!! Where do I start?

Also could be security lockout. Is there a small black button to the left of the steering wheel at the lower part of the panel? If so, you have to hold it in when turning the key to start. O.

Can't answer that question, but I have used the specs as I gave them for 2 different SOHC blocks. One from a 2005 which was Fed emissions, but I have an 05 with the the CA emissions. Put my heads on it and ran it for at least 30K, but the rings were going bad and I was burning a lot of oil. Finally got another block with a little over 100K and again put my heads on it. Running like a top, A little over 2k since install. O.

You misread the post. It's not talking about backing off the bolts, but the tightening. O.

2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 21.4 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Retighten all bolts to 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (4) Back off all bolts by 180q in the reverse order of installation, and back them off again by 180q. (5) Tighten all bolts to 49 Nm (5.0 kgf-m, 36 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 — 90q in alphabetical sequence. (7) Tighten all bolts by 40 — 45q in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts more than 45q. (8) Further tighten the bolts (A) and (B) by 40 — 45q FSM : Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru (jdmfsm.info) Basically after you tighten them all to 36 ft lbs. You do the angle tightening of 90 deg. Then ALL for 45 deg. Then ONLY the center 2 for an additional 45 deg. O.

No they are not. Some are threaded and some were a press fit into the manifold. Take a picture and go to the auto parts store. Not hard to match.

Generally the thickness is stamped on the inside of the rotor, IIRC it is 22mm. O.

It is the engine coolant by[rump roast hose. Duct tape, i woudn.t chance it since you are in a safe place. O.

99 was a transition year. IIRC they went from a three part bulk harness to a two harness unit. The temp sensor also changed location and connector So you will need the harness that matches the body and that intake. The ect can be swapped as necessary to match.

Don't know which axle they were on. Just that the installer could not get them to balance they were so out of round. Placed both on rear until I changed them. Seems like wheel sensors threw an ABS code as it couldn't figure out what was what. The ABS fault after a time put it into limp mode. See DTC 0500 for vehicle speed sensor O.

Update!!!!!! Earlier fixes were just coincidental, Issue returned and after more research, the car was going into limp mode and the fuel was being cut. Could not figure it out. Recently had an unusual flat where the tire had to be replaced. Bought a new set as they were at the end of their life anyway. Two of the rims were so out of round that they could not be balanced. Finally got two new rims of same style and switched the tires. Issue solved!!!! It seems the wheel sensors told the ecu that things were off and put into limp mode. In other words balance the tires. Hope this helps the next person.

The e brake is held on by a u clip on the back side where it goes into the bracket. Loosen all the interfering bolts and the 4 14mm that hold the hub on. Once all that is loose the hammer will knock it loose and it will basically fall off. You will find it extremely hard to press a new bearing on the car. If all this is too much pay someone to replace the whole spindle. O.

Replace the hub. RockAuto. Once you remove all the interfering bolt attachments ( lateral link, strut mount, sway bar link upper transverse link and axle nut)there are four bolts that mount it to the hub. You won't need to remove the parking cable. A hard rap should dislodge the hub and if you want to replace a rusted backing plate, now is the time. Of course you have to remove the caliper and bracket. Once you look at it, it's not as hard as it sounds. Just time consuming. Jack the car as high as you can and use stands. Spray with pb the night before if you can. You really need an impact gun, but you could get by w/o it. Definitely 1/2' drive Need 19mm sockets and wrench, plus the 32mm for the axle nut. Break that loose before you raise it, unless you have a heavy duty impact. Plus14, 17 ,10 and 12mm sockets. A long extension to pass through the outer part of the spindle to get to the caliper bolts. Don't forget the anti sieze on install O.

Highly unlikely that the pinch welds on such a recent car have rusted through, but any thing is possible. There is the small skid plate that attaches to cross frame behind the motor in the front and the rear differential support in the back. Both are centrally located so you can lift a set of wheels at once. Then place the stand on solid parts of the frame. Look at your manual for the std jack points O.

No fuel. Not at the fpr itself but on the line that connects to the metal end of the intake.

Update. Thank you to Lucky Texan, it was indeed in the vent line. There was a crack in the hose at the barb fitting. Cut it out and all is good. Thanks again. Who wouda thunk it?

No wetness, but there is a gas smell in the compartment. Which quickly dissipates On the 05 CA model there is an FPR (modulator) on all three fuel lines. Notice from a cold start on medium throttle, I get pulsing, for a small time, until the car warms up Have access to FPR's at local yard from an 05 and will look into replacing 2 of them. Will advise.

Only code is an evap one. Not related obviously. Didn't get chance to swap o2's. If friends garage is open tomorrow, will get a chance. Will check timing. Non AVLS. Will advise. O.

Update: Am finding that the short term fuel trim on Bank 2 is off. Running lean, Numbers in the negative. Had a spare and replaced the upstream O2. No change. Will swap the downstream from one bank to the other and see if the bad trim follows. BTW this is the late 04 and early 05 which has 5 O2 sensors and the modified H6 exhaust to fit the 2.5. Will advise. Still looking for suggestions.

05 2.5I, MT. Recently starting getting inability to rev past 4K. No stumbling or anything else until I get just past 4k. Occurs in any gear. Have access to an Autel scanner, but so far can't pin it down. Does not seem like fuel starvation, but what do I know? Nor like a partially clogged cat. Unplug the TPS at TB ( DBW). After a few minutes of learning, it revs to redline, but after 5 minutes or less of actual driving, it starts again. No codes, so am at a loss. Suggestions? O.

Run it until the low fuel light comes on. Use a transfer pump to get most of balance to other side. Use something firm like a hard rubber sanding block with the curved side down and hit it with a stick. Should be able to get most of it out. O.

That is correct. FSM:Subaru Factory Service Manuals (FSM) - Every Model - USDM/EU (sl-i.net) O.

+1. There is. IIRC 24mm or 1" . O.