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Continued work of this type may mandate broken stud extractors such as those made by Irwin or Sears. My very first Suby head removal was not done correctly and that last head bolt stripped trying to come out. The Irwin unit worked like a champ and "saved" the day. O.

go here for tire size comparisons; www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp O.

Just std vacuum lines. A few are formed, but std hose won't kink for these purposes.. O.

Yes, adjust them looser. Size is 8mmx1.25 IIRC. Same thread and dia as the radiator hold down screws on top. O.

Go here for fsm : www.main.experiencetherave.com - / Subaru_manual_scans/ O

Never saw the need to remove. It does go to the outlet side ( upper/ leftmost) of the heater. See pic. O

Also check to see if you have a security system. If so, there should be a toggle switch or button under the trim panel on driver's side. Wife had a 98 IOB, which she kept hitting the switch with her knee, causing many frantic calls as to the car will crank but not start. If so, flick or push the button while holding the key in the start position. O.

It has a security system. The fob, has to be reset. This will happen every time you lose battery juice. see www.cars101.com under programming remotes. Should also be a toggle switch/button under the trim panel on left side. If this is inadvertently switched, the car will crank but not start. O.

Not saying they won't fit, but you have to check the diameter of the ones you have versus your actual bore diameter. This will insure that you will get the best fit. An A piston in a B bore will leave more room for the piston to wiggle, accentuating the possible of getting piston slap. On the other side, a B piston in an A bore with std rings will lead to undue wear of the rings. O.

The stroke is the same, 79mm, but the actual A and B piston diameters are different. Attached are spec sheets. O. general description.pdf Specifications Engine.pdf

Link to FSM 05, 08 and 09 http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation After checking above you have to copy and paste into your browser, it won't work by clicking directly on link Link to FSM 90 -2004 www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Link to all Subaru models and FSM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru Parts Catalog www.opposedforces.com O.

Link for FSM. people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation O.

To repeat it's not the rear main, but the separator plate. Any Suby mechanic would know to replace the plastic one with the metal one and reseal it. Regret that you have to endure the downtime. Maybe you can get the mechanic who did the swap to give you some relief in this area, as he SHOULD have known to do this while in there. O.

See attached, if you are referring to #1 the cam plug, pn 807045040. For future ref :www.opposedforces.com/parts/ also see stickys for FSM ( my copy and paste doesn't want to work this AM). O.

Glad it all worked out. If you need the CEL off for inspection, do a search. There is an egr workaround using a t from the intake manifold. O.

10991AA000 or 001 Depending on what's closer, Advance Auto carries the Felpro Crankshaft set which includes the O ring, and front crank seal for $8.99. O.

18.1 +/- 1.4 ft lbs. Just do the inner ones first, after snugging them all down. O.

Once you remove the covers, remove front circlip. Then from the opposite side use a stiff thin rod to push it out. (this is shown somewhere on youtube also). You'll be able to snake the rod past the opposing rod. To install I made a drift of 3/4' dowel. works very well. Don't put on oil pan before you get pins in, it'll allow you to stake the rod with wood shims, so they keep their orientation. Best to have crank machined, so all of the journals are the same size. They don't always come from the factory with the same size. Subaru sells crank bearings individually, but rod bearings only in a set. Since you'll be machining the rod journals to one size this will be the easy part. Make sure you read the spec page on the engine, so you'll know what sizes the crank has. There will be 5 letters on the crank with any combination of A - D. A is std., B .03, C .05 and D .25. All in mm. O.

I wouldn't go into splitting the block. Not cost effective. If the engine has not been consistently overheated, leave it. If it has and you are concerned about the integrity of the rod bearings. Replace the engine. Do a search for HG and you'll see what to replace. Off the top of my head. Use Subaru's turbo HG ending #642. ( You should not have had to redo HG after 40K!). If pulling the engine,replace rear separator plate with new style metal one. retighten screws on the back of the oil pump. New O ring for oil pump and assorted seals and gaskets. Download fsm here: https://docs.google.com/folderview?pli=1&id=0B6P6dybMMzg9T25hMEhPdjFVc1k An accurate 3/8 torque wrench ( the cam bolts are very low #'s) Good 12 pt 14mm socket Bag and label your bolts (life will be easier upon install) Take your time. Save up on your curse words, you'll have occasion to use a few! Most of all, have fun. O.

The light won't go off until it's running for constant pressure. As long as the oil leve is good, fire it up! O.

Hemostats. Work extremely well. They have small tips and they lock. Keep your magnetic pickup tool handy. There are two I know of made especially for Subys. Here's link to one. The other is $85 http://www.euroexportinc.com/subaru-valve-spring-compressor-tool Since I don't have a shop or do them regularly. I "made" a tool for my uses. I use a c clamp to compress springs with this homemade item O.

Cheaper both money and timewise to get another shortblock. O.

Have fun. If you're going to replace the crank bearings also, make sure you have them miked. The bearings may not be all the same size. Looking at the crank, it should have a group of five letters, ranging from A to D. Check the fsm engine spec page for actual ranges. A is std, B is .03, C is .05 and D is .25 under. Subaru does sell the crank bearings individually, but not rod bearings. On a rebuild I did, EJ25D phase one. I was fortunate to have started with 4 C's and a B. Miking it, I was able to get a C set all around (.05 under). $89 from my dealer. Make sure you watch the orientation of bearings 2 and 4 on install. O.

Your biggest issue will be to get proper measurements of your bearing journals, both main and rods, unless you are having them machined, in which case the shop will advise of correct size. I would check an online dealer elsewhere. I just purchased a set of mains from my local dealer, but it was for an EJ25D with 48mm journals. $89, but I was blessed to be able to use one size. When you pull your crank you will notice a group of 5 letters from A up to D. And a 2nd group of 4 letters mostly I and maybe a Z., which is rod tolerances. A is std B is .03, C is .05 and D is .25. Check the fsm engine specs section for actual tolerances. If they are not all the same (very unlikely) a set of just one size won't work. Fortunately Subaru does sell the main bearings as individuals , but not the rod bearings. I is std for rods and the Z I have been unable to get info on exactly what it is, though it is a different size, and will be loose with std bearings. ACL race are only .001 under std, so if your bearings are not all equally std, you can't use them. I did use std ACL for the rods, from Import Image Racing. $57 plus shipping O.

If you can do it yourself, then keep the car. If not, buy another. The HG's would be fixed but there is the good possibility that the bearings have been compromised if there has been a lot of overheating. May not be, but if so, you'll lose the bottom end at some point and have to buy another car or engine. Do a search for procedure to "burp" Subaru engines. Just add antifreeze to what's there. O.