ocei77

No. Not with std wheels. There were (are) some 3rd party made for rally that would clear, but not Subaru steelies. You need 16's at the minimum Also Tribeca's use the 114.3 size O.

Says who? O.

......, clear-window Forester, could/would a dealer install roof rails for me on request? Why ask here, ask a dealer. O.

You have to look at the fsm. Generally the sizes are std.,.03,.05 and .25 mm from the factory. If you have the bearing surfaces ground, then you have other options. You usually have them ground and then get bearings to match. A little search for your engine type will show you the options You need to measure the surfaces with an accurate caliper. Subaru sells their bearings in a set or individually. If you look at the crank you'll have 5 letters such as BBBCB. Std is A. .03 is B etc O.

Tried this procedure. Worked great. Had an issue with keeping the glass still, 'til I thought of mirror holders. Works like a charm. Especially with a wood backing .Thought I'd offer my 2 cents O.

Offer $1200. Less if you can't replace HG yourself and TB etc at some point in the near future. Have a scanner? Check for codes if it's a running vehicle. If a dead battery, etc, you need to make sure it doesn't have any codes present that are an easy fix that will prevent you from passing inspection. Get it running first so you can check for codes. O.

When I encountered this problem (don't remember which Suby I was working on), I just left the springs out and tightened the nuts. No more leak. O.

unit may be bad, but check the small nipple on the bottom. It's easy to get clogged. Also the line that goes from the manifold to the egr unit itself. Another one that likes to clog. O.

The CA emissions 04 had 3 cats. One in each header line and a 3rd after the Y. Bank 1 is the passenger side. I would (and did) replace the front 02 sensor there. O/

Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. GD Handshake method for reading TCU codes. From post by General Disorder. first section of pulses is the tens digit second is the units.ie two pulses , pasue then 3, is 23. O.

1. replace the bent valves - it's actually really easy, the only hard part is getting the valve springs off/on, it's a real bear and no good tools available for these heads so it can be a pain. Tool is available but cost is $80 for the one shown. For occasional user it may not be worth the expense. With a little effort a homemade unit can be made. O. C

Sorry, but I prefer to do my own nut busting.

Can't use a ratchet. Breaker bar with cheater pipe. Put screwdriver into rotor to keep it from turning. I wouldn't use heat because of the bearings. O.

here is ref to FSM. Use the 97 one. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Not sure if you have one or two bolts (14mm) on a 98. If not 2, the topmost bolt is only a sliding pin. Remove both, clean and relube when reinstalling. Need a c clamp to compress the piston back into the bore. A youtube search will have some diy's. O.

Marvel Mystery Oil O.

One white goes to ground and the other goes to pin 38 on ecu., when mated. I can't say it's gospel, but I don't think it will matter which goes where, since there are no other circuits in between or connecting, except ground. For future ref:http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ and http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ O.

if the plug side pulled, the white wires go to the top two pins. Black to bottom. They should still be in the correct orientation. O.

..... I can't find the picture I was going to link to. But midway down the side of the bellhousing is a small hole, about 10mm. You can put a large screwdriver through the hole and turn the crank until the screwdriver slides into one of the holes in the flex plate. Now the crank is locked and you can tighten the crank bolt. credits to Canubaru for pic O.

I "assumed" the harness side pulled out. I will have to pull it in the morning and see what goes to where on the sensor side. O.

Not a big deal. Sometimes they change wire colors between years. As long as the left wire on top is the white one, all else follows in sequence. O.

This is from a 96. Seems to be the same.. As shown with locking clip on top, Left is yellow with a red stripe, right is white and the bottom is black. O.

Which engine and what year? O.

11044AA642. Use any online vendor for parts lookup numbers. also http://opposedforces.com/parts/ O.

Follow procedure for programming remote even though you don't have one . See http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html. Let car run. The battery must be charged. if it dies or is disconnected, you'll have to do it each time. Should fix the issue. O.

After looking more closely, the option given will not work for you. The header portion is much larger and a flange change alone will not mate the two pieces. This would work for the D but not the R version. Headers are available, but expensive. http://www.raptorsc.com.au/kits.php?id=70 For research see:http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/header-h6-17345p2.html O.