ocei77

can't find a ref pic of rear of block, but unless you see a lot of oil, more than an inch wide from the rear main, I'd leave it. The other plate is the access for wrist pins. there is an O ring in there. Some replace the O ring, others just ultra grey the unit. The upper left of the new metal plate should have an arrow next to bolt hole. This is where the special screw goes. O. Found a link. Engine is DOHC, but the rear is the same, just scroll down. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t74366-tearing-down-ejxx-block-pictures-head-removal-splitting-block.html

Option. Locate an 04 or 05 with Ca. emissions. This pzev used the exhaust headers from the H6 3.0, but with flanges to match the 2.5. Pic below is of an 04. O.

Some of the 04 production for the Ca. emissions standards were pzev but not marked on the body as such. IIRC only the late 04 and some 05 were of this irregular (H6 twin header design) exhaust type. O.

Alternator 08-09 Legacy and 08-09 OB. AC Legacy 07-09 ,OB 07-09 All with H6 3.0 Dealer parts are over the top. see:http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Air+Conditioning+Compressor Link is iffy, but http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ O.

Try Feder's Subaru, Middletown NY. 845 344-3100. Ask for Dave the Service Mgr. They have always been helpful. O.

Once the caliper bolts are removed there are two 17mm bolts that attach the bracket. PB and you may need a breaker bar. Make sure you use 6 pt sockets. You can hang the caliper from the strut spring. Rotors may be stuck, but gentle tapping should free it. If not, there are two threaded holes (8X1.25). Using a two inch length bolt will be enough to force the rotor off. Anti seize bolts and the center ring of the rotor on install. O.

^+1 If they find it hard to cut, just have them torch it til red, then a simple twist will take it right off. Tis why whenever I heat mine (not to red) I use a vise grip to hold the bung and a wrench on the O2. O.

Great! Also great to see a solution for a problem. Only @ a 1/4 of posters report resolution. O.

If you remove the egr unit, you can remove the studs that go into the IM and will give you working room.At least for the top one. That brass nut LOVES to round off. Everytime I have to do one it's an adventure. Wound up using the above procedure and a pipe wrench to get that one off. Didn't have to do the lower(lucky me) as I was only removing the IM. O.

You also need a torque wrench for reinstallation. O.

Don't know the actual differences, however you can reverse lookup and check. If you click on a part in opposed forces, you will then see a usage info link. Clicking that will show all models that part fits. Otherwise you can go to a Suby vendor website and go to the particular part and without using any filters, you can see the part number for all Subys, then you can narrow your search. O.

Think you may be misguided here. Bosch O2 sensors are fine. They come a lot as OEM units. In addition Bosch is the originator of the O2 sensor, not a fly by night mfg. O.

90% of the time a 420 is caused by a bad front sensor. I would google this code specifically for Subaru and go through those checks first. Cats can go bad, but usually they last they life of the car. If it was me, I'd replace the front sensor. O.

They changed. Looking at them side by side you'll see. O.

Yes it will. O.

From your photo I would keep an eye on that water bypass pipe. It has a tendency to rust through at the T which goes to the TB. O.

If the rear main is not really leaking, leave it. A little seepage is ok. O.

99 Forester has the 2.5SOHC and as such the HG's will leak externally in this series. SOA's "fix" was their "conditioner" (read stop leak). Will last an indeterminate mileage n this condition. Just watch coolant levels and signs of seepage. Unless you have nothing "better" to do, I'd leave it alone. I'm retired, so when I pull an engine I tend to do everything, for I have nothing but time and little sense. O.

Tailpipe. O.

Looking here should help. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ O.

]Probably pump. Check voltage at pump terminals. If 12 v, then pump is problem Alternatively you can jump pump to battery and see if it works. Easy fix in either case. Can't help with seat tho. Attached is schematic for seat and a link to FSM for your car. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Power Seat System.pdf O.

Those screws are torx. T25 or T27 IIRC. O.

Guess you missed the part where the post was from 2009! O.

No. O.

Swap plug with any that will reach. Clear code. If code returns to the other cylinder then it is the wire. If not it could be either a coil/injector. Reistance values for plug wires is 5.12 - 12.34 Kohms. See attached for coil check. O. Service Procedure Ignition Coil.pdf