ocei77

Suby oil pressure mil is set too low for comfort.3/4 psi IIRC. We can only keep a check on our level. If the level is good and you are getting flashing, then something may be up with the pump/the sensor.. In case you didn't find it, the oil system section starts on p 341 of the pdf I sent a link to. O.

Need to post more info. 2.5/3.0. In either case, here is a link to 2008 fsm. You'll have to look. Its a big pdf (5800+ pages), but it has all models. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ O.

After the pinch bolt was opened a little, used PB, then put castle nut back on but not all the way tight, and finally a 4 ft spoon bar. Pryed it right out. On a previous ball joint,the arm pried down, so I used a chisel at an angle on the BJ to break the rust loose, then reattched castle nut some then pried. O.

Can't comment on price, but I would be concerned about the rear tire wear. Did the po not be concerned that this was an awd car and should have replaced all four tires at once? Therefore this car has been consistently run with mismatched tires. Just something to consider. O.

There is an auto store item called guaranteed to pass or something like that for emissions testing. Check your local stores. O.

Part of the self check. About 4 or 5 times. If it flashes 16 times. Then there is a some fault., O.

^+1 You can usually get a set of WRX 16' rims for cheap from seller on NASIOC. Then any tire you decide on. O.

see: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2014.html Search is your friend. O,

No Forester here, but all of the others I've seen, the evap is to the right of the heater care and can be accessed after you remove the glove box. O.

When was the water pump last replaced? Thermostat? T belt and idlers? Upper hot and cold lower sounds (in this case) more like a sticking thermo or water pump starting to fail. Mileage? O.

There should be a toggle switch or push button under the edge of trim by left knee. See: http://www.cars101.com/ and go to programming remote secttion (even tho' you don't have have one) and that will work until you disconnect the battery again. O.

From bottom of yellow portion to tip is 18.5" O.

Breaker bar against the frame or against the ground and blip of the starter has never failed for me. O.

When you installed the tps, did you adjust so that it idles corectly? Large IAC to intake hose on securely? Check egr valve hose to the BPT. None of these will give a misfire code tho. Make sure plug is securely in socket, Move wire from 1 to 2 and see if misfire follows. All I can think of. O.

Back Pressure Transducer part # 6 in diagram. I'd check it anyway. Check the operation of the egr valve itself. As the tube clogs, flow is reduced and the egr valve doesn't operate like it should. O.

IIRC it has Kevlar in its construction. O.

You may have an egr line that is starting to block up. Specifically the small one that goes from the BPT to the manifold. Check the niipple end on the bottom of the BPT also. It gets very hard with age and is easy to split. Have you been getting low egr flow codes? O.

Double check the large hose from IAC to air supply intake. It may have become dislodged. O.

check your fuel filter. O.

There are 2 or 3 bolts that attach the window frame to the regulator. Sometimes one of these begins to back out and causes similar symptoms. You have to pull the door panel to check. They are either 10/12mm bolts. You can lower or raise the window until the bolt appears in an opening. In one case the bolt hole wasn't directly in an opening, so I drilled a 1" hole though the sheet metal so I could reattach. O.

[ ...Or recommend a mechanic (not NWRS - already tried and he's probably the only honest mechanic on the planet) ....] Since you've already determined that everyone else is probably dishonest, what's the sense of anyone recommending anyone? O.

Remove the EGR valve and gasket. Use two nuts. The 12's that came off will work. Use a wrench on the inner jam nut and you can turn the stud out. This will give you room to use either vise grips or a small pipe wrench. PB the copper pipe well . This won't strip the nut and gives you the oomph to pop it loose. Heat won't hurt, but I had to resort to the above method to get mine off. Didn't have to remove the bottom one in my sitaution, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. O.

I'm sure you've searched before. Stick with the quality names. You can't have cheap and good quality at the same time. For probably only $40 or so, go with quality. O.

Very little oil could leak from the access cover, it being so high up on the block. But anything's possible. In either case. Part # 806931020 or 1070. For future ref: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ also link to fsm.http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Everybody has their preferences and there are specific times where I prefer one or another. When there are large gaps or very uneven surfaces, I use ultra grey or the red hi temp. All other times I use anaerobic. Mainly because it doesn't set up in air, and if you have to delay mounting or remove the part, it doesn't make a mess and can just be attached. O.