ocei77

a deep offset wrench will also work, without removing manifold O.

Perhaps... For I bought the tool for exactly that purpose. However it works well without any tendency to round in the stated usage. Have used it on six occassions (3 engines). O.

If you are referring to the wrist pin access covers, they are T 70. O.

My dealer sells them singly. Can't remember how much I paid tho. I got 2/3 of the acorn type. Ask. O.

yes. O.

Probably the changes in air density. With the MAP readings constantly changing, the ecu was trying to adjust and set idle accordingly and couldn't. If code reoccurs, I would just clean the IACV. Do a search here for procedure (not hard). O.

Yes!! Generally if you jack up the tranny a little (with a block of wood), then lift the engine, the weight should break it loose. I don't have an engine hoist, I use a comelong attached to a chain over the beams in my garage. So I just use a bottle jack against a block of wood on the firewall and the piston against a metal portion of the block.Works everytime. No chiselling and no profanity. Take another look around the block and make sure you have removed all bolts that attach the tranny to engine, lpus the two nuts that are on the dowel pins. AFAIK you shouldn't have it, but on some EDM models there was a bolt that goes through clutch fork from the driver side tranny housing. Hex IIRC. 05+GT models have this type of cross bolt also. O.

^+1 Don't know which engine you have, but if you have the 2.5, it is highly recommended by others to use the turbo gasket part number ending in 642. 2.2s don't seem as picky. Just be sure its an MLS from a reputable mfg.(oem,6 star etc). O.

[quote name=presslab;1155218 Anyway anyone who has turned a warped rotor on a lathe (as have I) can obviously see that the rotor has actually warped' date=' and it's not just a high spot from material transfer. I'm not saying that material transfer doesn't happen too, but I'm firmly in the warped rotor camp as I've warped mine more times than I would care to admit. QUOTE] Let me wade in. The only way you can really be positive, is to get a new set of rotors and check for run out before use. Use them as stated so that deposits form, check for run out again. Turn so you are only removing deposits not real metal and compare . Because metal is removed under complaints of "warped", we don't have a baseline,to say how they were at installation. Another factor is the floating caliper design that many cars use nowadays. When I install a new set of rotors or pads, I use the bed in procedure as outlined by Baer. It's a little more involved , but I have never had an issue since using it. O.

Check the pads on the side the noise is from. Sometimes there is uneven wear and one side looks good but the other is down to the indicator. Check your rotor while you are at it. O.

Only other alternative is like my 04 BE. It was a Ca. emissions (PZEV state here). Although it was an H4 it borrowed the headers and exhaust from the H6. It had a total of 5 O2 sensors! In attached pic you can see the 2nd sensor just behind the cat, in front of tranny support crossmember. O.

Fel Pro or OEM. O.

I always carry a spare key in my wallet. Depending on car , it may not work the ignition, but it will get me in. Just a habit I've been in for a little over 30 years. It has saved me more than once. O.

Had a similar issue on a 98 Forester. In my case the dipstick was bent just enough that it would touch the solenoid, grounding it and giving me the code. Just another possibility. O.

Exedy. Also named Daikin. Great quality. A supplier for many mfgs. Their kits come with pressure plate and nose bearing. You also need a throwout bearing and the two clips that go on it. The clips are oem only AFAIK. For an 07 2.5I i paid about $200 for everything and that was three years ago. O.

Interesting... O.

Resolution. Prayerfully. Didn't have a way to test fuel pressure w/o driving 40 mins one way to a friend's, but I did have a fuel pump assembly from the 97 L I had. Installed and so far all is good. Let the car go down to 5 mph going up an incline and it pulled steadily from there. No bucking, or anything. Tomorrow will go out onto the roads here and see how it behaves. Thanks to all for every suggestion. Oddly Subaru's diagnostics had the fuel pump as the 10th and last possible cause of my issues. All's well that ends well. O.

96 Outback with 2.5 and auto, 193K. Symptoms. Car bogs under load (incline) in D or 3. Manually shifting from 2-3 works. Pressing hard on gas, car coughs and will not accelerate. When holding brake in gear, idle sometimes fluctuates and dies, but not always. Amazingly, sometimes I can go up an incline at very little throttle, at other times it dies. Purchased at 186K, T belt and HG done at 146K by previous owner. I have a 2.5 from a 98 Forester which threw a bearing for spare parts What has been done so far: I have replaced the plugs even though I did them 6k ago. They looked fine, but left the new ones in. Swapped wires,CTS, IACV,MAF,purge solenoid, and EGR. All one at atime trying to see what if any effect it had. NO codes. Checked knock sensor, doesn't seem defective in any way, but the 98 has a different connector. Ordered a new unit and while I wait figured I'd ask what y'all think. If not knock sensor, I'm leaning to a partially clogged cat or O2 sensor issues. Thanks in advance. O.

There is an alternative. See; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dohc-ej22e-190650.html The only thing you will NOT have to do is swap harnesses. O.

Check the tone ring on the wheel where you have the noise. Have the same issue with daughter's Forester. She took it to a "mechanic" and they broke it putting in a ball joint. Was pulsing like crazy. I just pulled the fuse, until she has it replaced. She doesn't want them to fix it, even though they acknowledge busting it. Tho they din't tell her before I found the source of the problem! O.

Junkyard. Whole hatch. Still dear but cheaper. Try car-part.com and see what they give for price. Should be cheaper locally O.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp Will answer your questions Sidewall is actually smaller. O.

Do you have the wiring diagram for the car? If not, go to 99 section: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Pages 10 and 103 has seat heater. O.