ocei77

A google will turn up a lot, but: O2 sensors are an emissions item. They check for how much unburned fuel is in the stream by relating it to how much free O2 there is. Some Subys use two or more to monitor this. Your IOB only has 1 sensor and it reads a value which is compared with what is stord in the ECU. If it goes above this set value, it adjusts timing, usually leaning the mixture, to get the result back within limits. You can "fool" the sensor by using a spark plug non fouler. It's basically just an extension which moves the sensor further out of the stream, reducing what it reads, thereby bringing it within paramaters(hopefully). A search for non fouler will explain what has to be done to make the unit usable for this deed. There is nothing to clean in a sensor, AFAIK. It reads hot exhaust gases, tho it may be possible to get coated. A clogged cat would surely evidence itself in loss of power and at the extreme, be cherry red after running. You can unhook the exhaust manifold and other than the noise tell if there's a major difference in throttle output. The sensor can be removed easily, with just an open end to hold the O2 bung on the cat (in case it has been weakened by rust) and either a socket wrench or a specific O2 socket. Idle the car for a few minutes to make it easier to remove. Bosch(the originators of O2 sensors) is the way to go IMO. Check out oxygensensor.com for prices or even RockAuto. O.

Regrets, my error. Missed the MT part. O.

If it has only happened once, I would not go tearing into things. If it does occur, Im sure the car is still under warranty. Let the dealer deal with it. O.

Probably because you have a swapped engine. The parts people are looking it up by the car, 96 Legacy OB, which came with a 2.5 which has the dual ports. Tell him you have a regular Legacy with the 2.2 and you'll get the right gasket. Keep this in mind for future parts. BTW it's just an exhaust manifold gasket. NA cars do not have an up pipe. O.

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Welcome. Are you sure its an EJ22? Was the engine swapped before, for std was an EJ25DOHC. Do a search and you'll get a list of things you can do preventatively. Mileage and known service history would be helpful. O.

+1^ I also think this is more likely the issue. I would take a good look at the endlinks,also. The std rear is @15mm, while your front sway is 20. If after ruling out all other things and you still want to change the handling, find a larger rear sway, but no larger than 19. On my IOB, I run 32psi F and 30 R. O.

Try over on LegacyGT.com. They have a Forester section. Post there. Should get some help. Also do a Google search. O.

unfortunately I can't assist with the tranny issues. The horn going off is part of the security system. There should be a sticker near the battery that tells you what to do whenever you disconnect the battery (same problem, just different cause for you). You follow the same procedure as programming a remote. If not there advise and we'll repeat procedure. O.

Try jumping a wire from battery to horn. If it works, it's probably your clockspring( roll connector). If not make sure the horn is grounded and try again. Still no, clockspring. Can't help with the blower. Here is link to FSM : http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

One flush is good for now. Someone else will hopefully chime in on this, but when you used the driver to move it, something is not straight. I'd try putting it into what appears to be reverse and try to start. O.

Seems like regardless of shift lever, the car is not in neutral, so it will not start. I'd pull the trim piece around lever and spray a LITTLE PB on the linkages. Then keep working it until it loosens up. It has to go into real neutral or park, then you can start with the other issues. Flush the cooling system ,especially the radiator and burp. O.

Look at the metal tag on drivers side strut area. It will tell you exactly which version of the EJ 25X you have. Probably a 253. O.

that code probably only worked because the dollar value of the order was over $100. For any online order before you submit, google coupons for that vendor and you'll see what may be applicable. O.

Here is link to fsm http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/ O.

If you have a remote, try reprogramming first. There should be a valet button down by the OBD port. In my case (98IOB), the button itself was missing and the wires were just hanging loose. I just used a nail to short it. Hold the button for 15 secs. The doors should cycle three times. After the 3rd time, release button and push the lock button on remote. This programs the remote. If more than one,hit lock button on others before 15 secs. passes. This may help. Before, mine would just alternately lock or unlock, even when driving. O.

Best to use a scanner. If not unplug the battery, press brake to discharge any residual, wait a few minutes and reattach. If you have keyless remote, you may have to reset the unit. try turning key to on position before reattaching. Otherwise, use the valet button, which should be near the OBD plug. Open driver door,hold valet button in for 15 secs. The doors will lock and unlock three times. Release valet and press lock button on remote. This programs that remote. If you have more than one, just press the lock button on it within 15 secs of the last unit. O.

One other possibility. Did you run the car after the low fuel light came on? I ask because I am running a 98IOB which I purchased for my daughter and working out it's needs. Just today was on the way back to cheaper gas and I had @20 miles to go. As I was getting closer to my exit, I said to myself the CEL is going to come on soon. And, sure enough with @ 5 more miles to exit,CEL. When I got home used scanner and yep 440. It has occurred twice before and after going crazy the first two times, thought of a possible connection. Not conclusive, but just another thought. O.

Go here http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=174&sid=3d7058f0853dfdc05b1f1a871bb51c9d. go to wiring section and you'll have schematics of the system. Should be in repair section how to check wiring for continuity etc. It's the same for all defoggers. Do a search, may come up that way. You will have to pull the driver's side passenger molding off ( just pop its) to check the tabs and connections. If the wires in the window or the tab are bad, there is a repair kit at the auto stores. Check proper relay operation first. O.

or Bosch. O.

Any radio will work, you just have to merge the wires. Do search for radio wiring. Up til 05 all Subaru's used the same 14 pin connector. In 06 they changed to a 6 pin IIRC. Subaru radios are obviously plug and play. In 06 they came out with the aux input. This requires a little more work to get the aux to work on a car that did not have it to start. Can be done tho. Subaru radios obviously fit the dash, while most others are of the single din layout, which leaves a space under the radio. But this too can be filled with aux pockets. Do search on any forum in audio section. NASIOC or LegacyGT.com. My 07 has the input, while my 97 I just bought a 6cd changer from a seller on NASIOC for $50 shipped. (You can do this all day). I had to buy the side mounting plates from the dealer. $16. Just purchased the fm transmitter to use my mp3 player. O.

To add: Let the car idle a few minutes to warm it up. Makes it easier. If the cat is very old as a precaution I would hold the bung with one wrench while turning the O2 with another. I have had an O2 bung rip completely out while trying to remove the sensor! Bosch(the originators of O2 sensors) are a good replacement,also. O.

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Check the bypass water pipe from the pump. It lays right on top of driver side block. There is a T that goes to the TB before continuing. I had three pin holes in mine an I swore it was a HG for it only showed up after the wife had water pump failure and overheated on a 50 mile drive back home. About $40-$50 at the dealer. O.

Dont have a gen. that far back, but if it's the same as all the 5Subys I've worked on, NO. Remove the clip that holds the brake line and break the tab off to free the line from strut. Generally the new ones have the same type of hole. I just cut a slot large enough for the line to go in,but still enough to grab the clip. Zip ties work just as well. O.