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ocei77

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Everything posted by ocei77

  1. RockAuto is having a close out on a lot of the BD items. check their website. O.
  2. I am in total agreement there. A direct question as you've rebuilt more EJ's than I ever will. Do you use this in a new HG job? O.
  3. Going further, let's say I redo the head gaskets on the BE. Is it still "suggested" to add this stop leak stuff? I am just trying to wrap my head around adding a stop leak to an engine that is not leaking. O.
  4. A question. I know that earlier EJ's had issues with the HG and until the solution of MLS gaskets was found ,"condtioner" was to be added to the coolant system I know, this"conditoner" is nothing but stop leak. My question is why are so many still advocating adding this to new rebuilds with updated gaskets? O.
  5. I feel your pain having done that. A pain, but I just loosen the motor mount nuts, so that they are still a little attached. Jack the motor up and then attach plate. At least not as bad as the why I have this extra bolt syndrome! In my case turned out it was the lowest of the crank case bolts in rear of the engine. Yes, it leaked like a sieve when I started it. Not only did I have to pull the motor, but crack the block so that I could reseal it! After that fiasco I labeled and bagged everything O.
  6. Can't answer your vacuum question, but since this is your first Suby engine. Do a search on procedure for "burping" the coolant system. Suby's are not a fill and forget type of system O.
  7. Gary's U pull it in Binghamton, there's another similar yard near them. Call for availability. O.
  8. do a google local prices I've seen are only for 134A. Believe R12a is illegal in US and no longer available O.
  9. Way too much in my neck of the woods. Check craigslist for going prices in your area. Here( hudson valley, ny), price would be no more than 5K, if that. for instance http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/2418630603.html and that's an 06 O.
  10. Follow link for manual, should have procedures http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.
  11. Works for me also, tho I don't do it all the time. Had an 8" screwdriver break on me once and you can't imagine the horror I felt as I heard the small piece fall in between the flex plate and flywheel. Wound up using the old style jack handle after that! Works every time, off and on. O.
  12. What issues did the previous owner tell you the car had? Mileage? Were head gaskets replaced? If so when? Is the lower radiator hose hot? O.
  13. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554&page=2 There is an access cover. Its hidden under the throttle body. Use a needle nose to grab it. If you turn the crank (22mm) with a flashlight you'll see the slot in the flex housing. If you don't have a 2nd person to hold the brakes, do it this way. Make sure it is a sturdy screwdriver. One popped on me and you can't imagine the horror I felt as the broken piece fell down! Put that off til later and on turning the crank the glorious sound of falling metal greeted my ears. Went under with my magnetic pickup tool and was able to fish it out. Used a lug wrench after that. I take the radiator out, as the screwdrivers I have always hit it as I try to lever the lower sprocket into place. Do search proper "burp" procedure if you remove the radiator. for future ref. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Have fun O.
  14. Sounds like air in the system or a failing pump. System properly "burped" when coolant ran low? When was the pump last replaced? When a pump starts to fail, it may not go all at once. The temp will rise when engine is at a certain rpm then come down. Varies as to how long this will happen before it completely fails. O.
  15. If you have the place to do it, by all means pull the motor. The dealer sells the HG as each, so you need 2. You don't have to replace the head bolts though. If you decide to do it in car, give yourself an extra 2 hours.The passenger side is easy, but the driver's side is a REAL PITA to get back in.Frustrating to say the least. 5 of the bolts have to be in the block when reattaching.The upper left could be inserted after catching the other threads. I used paper towels to keep the bolts from sliding all the way in, so I could manuever better. But you can use rubber bands or similar. Don't hang the gasket until after you have the head basically in place, or you'll mess it up in the twenty attempts to line everything up. To remove my egr pipe, I had to first remove the egr unit, to give me that 1/2 inch of movement I needed to use my 17mm flare. I wouldn't have done it in car, but after the first time and having to do it again ( a long story for another time) I chose to do it in car. O.
  16. Here is link to parts etc. You can backup to home page to keep for future ref. I used a 2.2/ auto as base, tho I don't think it will make a difference. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/brake_system/brake_piping/ for future ref http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ have fun. O.
  17. Opposeed forces does not list a gasket as a part of the oil pump assembly. I used the red amaerobic when I did my ej253. Goes on in a small bead and does not harden in the air. Expemsive but so much easier to use. O.
  18. To quote "aye there's the rub". Getting it started. Changed T belt and pulleys etc while doing a HG job on my BD and wanted to check oil pump screws and change O ring. Can't get the sprocket off yet. the holes are not threaded on mine and after the first ping of a broken screw driver tip and the horror that came over me looking for cracks in the oil pump, I have given up on that idea. So, it was reassembled w/o changing. I've PB'd it and am waiting to see how the OP gets his off. Maybe that'll help my situation. O.
  19. If burped properly and still doing this, it sounds like your water pump is on its way out. When was it last changed? O.
  20. In an effort to put this to bed. ie 97 ej engines, I wrote to the source. SOA. asking them for production date of when they went to interference style and for any and all distinguishing features. When I get an answer I will post. O.
  21. ^Well sir your knowledge, as most of ours has a few gaps. If you will check phase 1 and phase 2 info, you will find that about 03/97 Subaru went to the interference style. Although GD and others have disagreed with ability to see by external differences such as valve cover design. When they went to phase 2, they changed the spark plug location to go through the valve covers and no longer had HLA lifters. I have a 97L and it does not have the interference design. O.
  22. Hawk HPS or similar They have good initial bite, great resistance to fading, but they do dust a little more than stock. Upgrade your brake fluid while at it. Motul, Super blue or similar. O.
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