ocei77

The clearance was wrong. You generally get an orange/red plastic spacer to give the correct clearance. My 05 uses it

Probably wire, Switch to another cylinder, clear code and see if code returns on the new cylinder. O.

I doubt they purchased them like that. They were probably cleared at home. Do search on how to clear headlights. You basically have to put unit in a warm oven, separate the halves, remove orange parts and reseal. Best to start on an extra set, so if you mess it up, you'll still have a working units. O.

05 up to10 You will have to swap the heads as you do not have avls on an 05. Not sure what difference there may be in later years, but keep the heads and IM O.

One big one down and one to go. O.

So what did it end up being? O.

Is the IAC hose connected? O.

IIRC You may have to swap the engine coolant temp sensor. The 97 uses two separate sensors, one for the temp and one for the gauge. The 99 harness and sensor does both at once. O.

+1^ and the rest of your fluids As a precaution I keep an alternator belt in the car and basic sockets and wrenchs You can drive about an hour w/o one, but then I would probably be in the middle of nowhere. O.

Are you trying to do a valve adjustment or reinstall T belt correctly? The above info is correct for T belt install. What engine and year? O.

The diagram just is just telling you what colors the lead wires are. You missed the optional arrangement note. ECU is under carpet in passenger footwell. O.

Perplexing. Although the coil and plug wires are new, try anyway to see if you are getting leakage at the terminal. At night or in a dark garage, let vehicle run and when it stumbles, spray water with a mister around the connections. Check voltage at coil when it stumbles, one plug at a time and be careful! Again, check your sensors won't take but a few minutes. The ignition signals go from the sensors to the ecu and then back to plugs. Get FSM and go to the 300 series of DTC's there are 4 pages of troubleshooting O.

If the timing is off they are not getting the correct signal at the proper time.. Easy to check by removing the timing cover and aligning the crank. If the car is not underpowered, they are firing at some point. Make sure you have continuity and correct resistance between the bulk harness and the injector terminals. There are diagnostics and connector listings in the FSM, which you can download here:http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Wiring would be under engine electrical Are you only getting codes 301 and 302? O.

Check your timing and that the sensors are clean, especially the crank. O.

Go here; http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp O.

OBDII, non interference, single port heads. 97 on are interference. O.

Check the timing and that crank and cam sensors are connected. O.

EJ25D, as stated classic HG failure. But, make sure there is no coolant pooling anywhere on the top of the engine. O.

Check your timing. O.

Try getting one from a salvage yard. Or Ebay O.

2005 Legacy, MT. Put car on lift, grab wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and see if you get any play. May be no more than 1/4 to 3/8 in. Some of the common diagnostics don't always tell. I had a whine in FR which I first thought was a bad tire. Noise would lessen when the wheel was turned while moving, to the right. Had car on lift, used stethoscope, no discernible difference than FL. Had some play at 6 and 12 which is characteristic of bad tie rod. Replace TR. Still no change. Looked harder at axle while lifting and could see the housing move!. Replaced hub and all is now good. The noise could not be duplicated it seems unless the wheel was under load. If you plan on replacing, spray PB on the caliper bracket bolts and the 4 bolts than secure the hub.. You don't need a puller. Once the 4 bolts are removed you can tap it out with a hammer. O.

To answer number 4. I find it easy when I first make sure the far side criclip is in. I use a 8 in long 3/4" wood dowel as a drift. Once the rod is aligned just tap the oiled pin in until it bottoms out on the circlip. Install the front circlip and rotate to the next. O.

If you can do the work yourself, it won't be too bad, as long as you have an open space to work, even if outside. Rent or make an engine lift. You will need an engine stand to work comfortably. You can machine the heads yourself. Work on calm days and if necessary work inside a tent. Challenging, but it can be done, as long as you have space. FMS here:https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU O.

^+1 It's not the belt, if the timing is correct, something is disconnected. In addition to sensors, check the IAC hose, (the 1" dia. one) that goes to the throttle body. If that is not connected it won't start either. O.

^+1 Jack it up, remove the calipers, rotate the wheels, use a c clamp or similar to push the pistons back, then remount. Push brake so you have some stopping power , then try the gas again. O.