ocei77

EJ25D, as stated classic HG failure. But, make sure there is no coolant pooling anywhere on the top of the engine. O.

Check your timing. O.

Try getting one from a salvage yard. Or Ebay O.

2005 Legacy, MT. Put car on lift, grab wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and see if you get any play. May be no more than 1/4 to 3/8 in. Some of the common diagnostics don't always tell. I had a whine in FR which I first thought was a bad tire. Noise would lessen when the wheel was turned while moving, to the right. Had car on lift, used stethoscope, no discernible difference than FL. Had some play at 6 and 12 which is characteristic of bad tie rod. Replace TR. Still no change. Looked harder at axle while lifting and could see the housing move!. Replaced hub and all is now good. The noise could not be duplicated it seems unless the wheel was under load. If you plan on replacing, spray PB on the caliper bracket bolts and the 4 bolts than secure the hub.. You don't need a puller. Once the 4 bolts are removed you can tap it out with a hammer. O.

To answer number 4. I find it easy when I first make sure the far side criclip is in. I use a 8 in long 3/4" wood dowel as a drift. Once the rod is aligned just tap the oiled pin in until it bottoms out on the circlip. Install the front circlip and rotate to the next. O.

If you can do the work yourself, it won't be too bad, as long as you have an open space to work, even if outside. Rent or make an engine lift. You will need an engine stand to work comfortably. You can machine the heads yourself. Work on calm days and if necessary work inside a tent. Challenging, but it can be done, as long as you have space. FMS here:https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU O.

^+1 It's not the belt, if the timing is correct, something is disconnected. In addition to sensors, check the IAC hose, (the 1" dia. one) that goes to the throttle body. If that is not connected it won't start either. O.

^+1 Jack it up, remove the calipers, rotate the wheels, use a c clamp or similar to push the pistons back, then remount. Push brake so you have some stopping power , then try the gas again. O.

If the parking brake was not left on and it is indeed the front, then it is probably rust buildup or similar. Does it roll backwards? Make sure there is nothing in the way and apply gas until it breaks free. O.

The gas filler tubes are generation specific. Buy the OEM unit. It will probably have a small vent tube somewhere on it. O.

FSM available here: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU If the final drives are the same then you're good. The MT Forester has 4.111 The AT is 4.444 The Impreza (RS has 2.5L) the MT is 4.111 and the AT 4.444 The 2.2L tho has 3.9 on the MT and 4.111 on the AT. O.

No idea til you found out what's wrong. SubaruPartsFor You, lists a complete Turbo short block for $2030!! O.

You will need a new short block at the least probably. Rod knock means having the block checked for journal roundness and line honed if need be. A new block is the cheaper alternative You will then have to have the turbo checked to see if its still good. If it was a cheap and/or easy fix, it would've have been done already. O.

If the inlets and outlets are in the same location, then yes you can. You may have to run hose for the AT lines but that's all. O.

Plugs are cheap. Change it. Sorry but our gap is measured in mathematical units, not blade bits. lol. .044. Move the wire from three to one. If the code comes back on one, you know it's the wire. Very seldom a coil with only one cylinder.

Found this https://www.obd-codes.com/p0866 O.

Would search and post over on LegacyGT.com. There are a few who have done this over there and should be able to offer aid. O.

Yes. As usual not a lot of room on driver side, but doable. Had to remove and replace the valve covers a few times on my 05 Legacy while setting valve lash. O.

The moral of this story is that if the price seems to be too good to be true it probably is. Sorry you had to learn the hard way. O.

An easy way to get the pins out is as follows. You need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove and reinsert the circlips, a 22mm socket on a ratchet to turn the crank and a stiff rod of some sort about 18 to 24 inches long I only remove the circlip that allows the pins to be pushed out. You use the rod to snake past the connecting rod in front of you and tap out the pin from the back of the rod you're working on. ie, snaking past 3 to tap 1 out etc. Use a 3/4" wood dowel as a drift to insert the pin. Leaving the backside circlip in allows you to tap until it seats firmly. O.

All EJ25's have four access ports. One is behind the separator plate. T70 Torx.. O.

See following from FSM/ You can download FSM from here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O.ignition coil and ignitor assembly.pdf

In my opinion no. Just get the EJ22 and call it a day, If you want the experience, rebuild the one you pull. .P

Sounds like the TO bearing went and the clutch fork is damaged. Prayerfully that's all it is. O.

For future ref. here is link to FSM.http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ BTW that is page 3729. O,