Tycho

http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/svx_lights/index.html The mounts for them aren't quite done...but that's just a few minutes of sheet metal work. Good to know there's a use for that bloated luxo mobile. I wonder what I should do with the EG33 that's laying about in my basement... Just need some new turn signals (and a new bumper) now. Anyone in AK have one handy? If not...anyone in the states who has one handy willing to ship it to AK?

TOD is no simple fix. I have one lifter that still "lets go" when I'm ice tracking. The thing stays quiet when driving on the highway or around town however. I've: replaced the lifters with new(er) ones, re-sealed the oil pump, installed a new oil pump, done the ATF treatment, changed oil weights, checked and re-checked the cam carrier o-ring... My issue boils down to the bottom end I believe. Clearances were between .0015 and .0018 when assembling the shortblock (within spec). To do it again, I'd use new bearings on the "tight" side (I re-used my old bearings as they had no embedded particles and negligible wear) with some moly disulfide coating on them (from a place like Poly-Dyn). Then I could use 5-30 with tons of oil pressure to the heads. I'd target .0010 specifically...for mains and rods. In the mean time, I have some 0-40 oil to try...and a cooler t-stat. I think they will both help (using anything thicker than a 5-xx makes it clatter until it warms up...anything thinner than a x-40 clatters when warm). I think the ultimate solution to the TOD is an EJ swap.

http://www.themacaddress.com/news.php?nid=58215400 EA82 SPFI.

Here's how we got the pin in 2/4 out of our EG33... http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/eg33/PB200055.JPG Just the bolt method as described by snowman...and some really Fing long needle nose pliers.

Mmm...good suggestion. I'm at 20 deg BTDC now as per the OE setting...perhaps after break in go another 3-5 deg. The CR is a bit higher now as I decked the block...so detonation is an ongoing concern (don't want to use higher grade gasoline).

Got the car IM'd at 120 miles (rings have another 1380 to seat enough for me to call them "good"). "ok" numbers I'd say (before/after)

Full on porting yes...keeping it confined to work around the valve seat/chamber area results in a minimum of material removed with a maximum return in flow gains. If one wants more port flow...the 2 port heads are the way to go...with light seat work and some minor bowl work. Porters who hog the runners out generally don't have a clue what they're doing (and it's certainly not helping flow). It's been said that 90 percent of the gains are to be found in the bowl/seat area...and if you think about flow and the valves...it's pretty easy to accept that statement.

Yes...I am a "Widmerist" for sure. I don't have access to a flow bench off hand...but there is one in the fluid mechanics lab at school (I'm in electrical engineering however so getting in there is a bit more trickey for me). This is the third head I've done (have done 2 saturn 16v heads in the past) so I'm getting a feel for what works/what doesn't. This head was done rather quickly as the intake ports are such a restriction big gains can't be found. I was looking for more mid lift flow by deshrouding the chamber and applying some radiuses to the horribly tight short turns. If I make more torque down low I'll be pleased (that's the only place the manifolding doesn't restrict anyway). For this build the goal was longevity and milage. -.010 on the block to bump the C/R and fight detonation a bit (more effective quench), radiused valve reliefs to fight detonation, cermaic coated domes to fight detonation, moly skirts to resist scuffing on cold start and keep the pistons square (promoting square ring wear and lower leakdown), RTV'd everything with the Loctite black stuff (we'll see if it can keep the oil in...EA82s are pesky buggers). Pretty standard issue. ~.0015 on all the mains/rods (.0013 to .0017), everything meticulously clean during assembly...etc. As such, the stock heads and cams were fine. I have other engine platforms if I want to make power (EG33, LL0, 4AGE...). Hit me up on instant messanger sometime...I love to BS about the stuff discussed on the ENDYN forums.

33 bucks per piston for skirt and dome coating (moly skirts, ceramic domes) from Polymer Dynamics (PolyDyn). 3 day turnaround. The cracks extended all the way down to the casting line inside the ports...the seats themselves showed no damage so I wasn't too worried.

Peening will keep the seats from dropping (at the very least). There was no water or oil seepage through the cracks so beyond their effect on the seat I am not concerned (Miles Fox passed on his experience and he's the man with the soobs so I'm sure it will be fine).

Ball peen hammer to the cracks=problem half assedly solved Here's a "more interesting" subaru project that there may be more pictures of in the future (in the "older subarus" forum no less). http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/eg33/

Smooth ports are a result of cosmetics selling (you illustrated why). I did a quick radius of the short turn on both intake and exhaust and removed the valve seat machining flashing remaining in the chamber. As long as you get the shapes and cross sectional areas you want performance will be equal. Cartridge rolling the ports yields zero flow benefit...and polished chambers don't allow for proper carbon formation. Port 1 and 2 flow have equal flow in both quality and fuel atomization. Port 1 Port 2

http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/12_23_04/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/12_26_04/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/12_28_04/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/12_31_04/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/1_6_05/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/1_7_05/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/1_8_05/ http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/1_9_05/ Should plop it in tomorrow after I fix an axle boot, get an oil filter, and get the battery charged.

Radiused valve reliefs Thermal barrier coated dome to spread piston heat distribution (and chamber heat distribution...perhaps less cracking). This bugger seemed knock prone to begin with...and I took .010 off the block to bring piston->head to a minimum (more effective quench, better burn)...but I was concerned about the additional heat in an already borderline combination. Moly coated skirts to tighten up piston->wall clearance after honing to reduce piston rock (scuffing wasn't bad when I took it apart...but it was not as good as the EG33 i went into). They also "hold" oil to reduce (in my experience totally eliminate) damage from cold starts. I'm looking for a zero leakdown 200k miles out of this. Just an inexpensive step that makes things better.

I use Mobil1 exclusively in all of my engines. I've been "throuogh" all of them however so they are a known quantity. Sometimes older engines will start to seep oil at the seals if you switch to synthetic.

Hoping to fend of some detonation and keep the rings a bit more square in the bores.

Awesome...thanks!

Indeed...my clips have disappeared (they were actually never on the thing since I got it). Anyone know where I can get a couple (something Napa might have)?

Hmm...these clips may or may not be on the fork... I'll take a peek when I get home. The TOB that was on there was just sitting there with the tongs totally free when I pulled the engine.

can anyone get me a scan of the clutch fork -> throwout bearing assembly. My TOB was completely "off" the fork when I pulled my engine and I don't have any technical manuals other than a sheet of torque specs.

K...long as it's "normal"... Thanks for the info (and reassurance). The severity of these made me think it was more of a problem and less of a "EA82 nuiance." Just glad my EG33 didn't have cracks like that when I tore it down

The other head looks more questionable... re load the first link to see the new pics.

Excellent. They didn't SEEM to be leaking coolant (exh ports were dry upon disasembly). Thanks.

I'm not very taken with the idea of spending money having these heads welded...but this crack has some length to it... http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/.Pictures/misc/12_26_04/ Just peen it down and keep the radiator full? These heads are just a disaster as far as anything is concerned. It's like a couple dropout mechanical engineers got drunk one night and decided to play around in CAD.

That information is greatly appreciated! Thanks.