cls1000

well, the stp filter (which i am no longer using) listed the same for my 98 as the 01, and through 03, than a diff. part number for 04 and up. (the 04 and up filter was smaller in diameter) i since when to napa and got a napa gold filter (very nice) and they list the same part number from my 98 through the 08....and this is of the smaller diameter also of the 04 and up stp...i dunno.....they both interchange with each other...just thought it was a little strange....

i have an 01 with the 2.5 and my brother has an 08 with the 2.5 and noticed they call for different oil filters. so after doing some research 04 and up calls for one number and 03 and below is a different number. so i'm wondering if subaru changed something in the engine design in that time or did they just come out with a newer updated filter (such as an anti drain back valve for ex.) that could be used on my older model if it was infact just improved in some way...anyone else notice this?

oh i've searched around i know, lol...just curious as to see if some others have had better results with a certain brand of oil....i'm going to change it this week and was thinking about maybe trying something different...

so i got a 01 2.5 legacy with 122,000.....just did the head gaskets, water pump, t-belt and tensioner, crank seal, cam seals, blah blah blah got a pretty good deal, cost me $180 for labor. anyway yeah it has the wonderful piston slap that for the most part goes away when warmed. the engine looked like new inside. no sludge or carbon build up of any kind and the cylinders still looked like new. i've in the past and in previous subarus had great results with mobil clean 5000, 5w-30....should i continue with this oil or is there maybe something else out there that may help quiet the piston slap that i could try such as the clean 7500 which is a synthetic blend? any input??? i'm in western pa and spend my winter up in the mountain skiing so i can't go to thick.....

Well if it is just piston slap, I can live with that since it isn't a big concern. I'm sure it will run along time as long as I can live with the noise (I wonder if synthetic will quiet it up some since it tends to "stick" more?) It's just the main bearings or rod noise that would concern me since who knows how long it would last like that......diagnosing "noises" isn't always an easy task lol

So here is mine. 01 Legacy. 2.5. 120K.....When I first start the car it's a pretty loud knocking sound. Enough that I have to duck down as I drive by the bus stop because all the kids laugh and point at me. It's mainly at idle and low acceleration. At speed, I can't hear it anymore. Once it's warmed up, it almost completely goes away, but you can still hear it a lil bit. problem is my longest drive is at most 4 miles so it never really get's a chance to warm up...anyway, so what's everyones thoughts? rod knock? main bearing? timing belt tensioner? All 3? Woodpecker in my exhaust manifold perhaps? It's a deepish knock knock that speeds up with engine rpm to a point and then it sort of, well, goes away.....grrrrrrrr the 2.5, 2.2 for the world!

I got a complete gasket kit online for like $150 and I also got the water pump, timing belt, misc. seals blah blah blah from another place. I got a guy doing the headgaskets/water pump/timing belt job for around $200 which seems like a good deal compared to what alot of people i've read spend.....the motor has a pretty loud knocking type sound at startup and tends to get pretty quiet after driving around for awhile, but never seems to go completely away, so i'm hoping it will be all right....might need to get a new tensioner for the t-belt as well, we'll see.....my last 2 roo's both had the 2.2, and I never had to touch them....the 2.5 def. has a hell of alot more power, but not to excited about the lack of reliabilty on these from what I've been reading....It's going to be painful to get rid of my 98 2.2 wagon...bulletproof.

I put in fresh subaru coolant w/ the additive, it made no change whatsoever. It's not really leaking per say, but you can smell it, and every now and then I can see the wet spot on the rear of the drivers head...so it def. needs it. It's got 120k on it, so it needs a timing belt and water pump and such anyway, so i figured i'd throw those in there as well....just was curious as to if I had the latest and greatest you know? The guy at the parts dept. said they were, but I've yet to really find a person at any dealership that really knows what's going on......so it can never hurt to do your own research...

i just swapped in a rebuilt axel in my 01...$49.99 from autosupermarket, works like a champ! very easy diy as well.....shouldn't take more than an hour or 2 depending on the tools you have....

so i'm getting the head gasket job done on my 01 legacy, and the part number for the gasket's i received is 11044AA632, can anyone confirm if this is the newest revision? just curious......thanks....

so i'm on my 3rd. roo now. my 98 2.2 was flawless except for what turned out to be just a dirty iacv. i was the second owner and have every maintenance record ever done from new till it's current 134,xxx miles. well i wanted a new body stle so i just picked up a 2001 legacy with the 2.5 and was wondering what i should look for. is there any site i could go to or even the dealer and give them my vin and find out any history on this car? it has 120,000 on it, no idea if it's ever had a timing belt, head gasket's replaced, it sucks not knowing past maintenance......

ok well thanks for the response, but i had that very hard to believe....this air deflector is like maybe 3" high...i don't think it's going to reduce my 28 mpg. to 20....

i have a 98 wagon w/ factory rack and just picked up a yakima 32" air deflector for it...i have a pretty good idea (i think anyway) on how i'm going to mount it, just curious if anyone else has done the same??

well i don't know any specifics as of yet, he's only had the car far a few days. supposedly it would just bam, shut off, and it might take 10 mins or so, then it would restart and be like nothing happened. after it would shut off it would not immediately restart, no...i understand it's kind of a vague question but thought if someone had a similar problem with a similar car they might be able to get me headed in the right direction you know....

has 101k miles on it, and it's an auto....very clean. car belongs to a friend of mine, and he got it cheap because it occassionally stalls, or so the previous owner told him, and he was never able to fix it so he sold the car for $300...anyway, anyone have any clues at to what could be causing this so i can let him know??? car runs perfect then just, bam, it will shut off.....

yes it is!!! everyone thinks i'm nut's...but i love this car!!!!

well, monday, after leaving the IAC soak in some sea foam over night...i put it back in, new O2 sensor, recalibrated the TPS (got it right at .50v) and the car has drvien perfectly for the first time in about 2 years....seems to me after all this time maybe it was just a carbon build up in the IAC after all...needless to say i'm so freaking happy you could not believe it!! i don't even have an desire to drive my 01 3 series now that my wagon is running good!! thanks guys for all your help, i just hope now my mileage goes back up....i still would knock down 28 on the high way, but the city mileage had dropped from 20ish to 15ish....so we will see....but ahhh screw the mileage, i can pull out in traffic now w/ out the worry of getting t- boned!!!!

well here's an update. ever since i cleaned out the iac and readjusted the tps, the car has been improving daily (even though the iac didn't appear very dirty) so i'm going to remove it once more and let it soak for a day or two (vs. just spraying it out) to make sure it's 100% clean and put in a new O2 sensor and see how that fairs.....i drove it yesterday to the steeler superbowl concert at heinz field, about 100 miles round trip or so, and it drove great....

lol...this i know, but it's been keeping my car from sputtering to a stop at idle to give me my driveability back until i do get the problem squared away...

yeah i said it has like 123k on it...and i am going to replace that sensor after reading your post, the part is cheap enough anyway, i just haven't picked one up yet figure it's a good time to put in some fresh anti-freeze as well.....

my ign. timing is 20 according to the scan tool. desensitizing the knock sensor won't advance my ign. timing. does anyone know what timing is supposed to be??

so i should be ok then....thanks!

mine seemed to be rather low, i mean really low, so i gave the lower screw on the throttle body some adjustment and rechecked the TPS.....the code scanner now shows, with the engine fully warm, an idle in park of 800 and in drive with my foot on the brake of about 650.....both are about 200-250 higher now that i tinkered with it (maybe they are supposed to be that low to begin with, but when the idle would surge it would stall, so far so good, hesitation is ANOTHER issue)...but it seems the car drives better with this fashion....anyone know what subaru specifies for these engines??

i replacd my knock sensor with an oem piece from the local sub. dealer....cost me around $80..... and speaking of this, has anyone successfully used the desensitizing method on the knock sensor to cure hesitation???

i have a code scanner, and nothing has ever showed up on it. weird. it did have a belt put on it at 60k, and i thought about pulling it off and checking it (the subaru dealer did it, so i would assume it's right) but you never know. i've replaced belts on these before so i know how to do it...but being the problem isn't constant, it would lead me away from that line of thinking....i had a belt jump a tooth on my sho and it wouldn't even start!! anyway, i'm thinking about replacing the front o2 sensor now after reading some other posts, and also that my mileage has gone down, with over 100k, i'm sure it prob. needs one anyway..i've been a member over at e46fanatics.com for years, first time to the subaru forums, seems to be a knowledgeable group of people, i like it!!!