Carnot

I've been looking for some 13s myself for rallycross. I wish I had known I would need them when TireRack was closing out their Kumho rally tires for $25 each.

Good point, I didn't even look at your location.

Do you want to get rid of the single pulley? I've got an EA-81 that I've removed the AC from and I wouldn't mind having the lighter single pulley to put on there.

I see...so where does that plug in exactly? There is a ring terminal that I have on the small stud on the back of the alternator and also a female spade connector that is on a male spade on the back of the alternator. Is the T-shaped connector supposed to be what's on the male spade?

After removing and reinstalling the engine from my '81 hatch I've had some electrical problems show up. The first problem that I noticed was that there was no power going to the fuel pump. I also discovered that there are a lot of warning lights on the dash that don't go off after the car is started. I put a weber carb on it a couple of weeks ago and it was running fine until now. It still runs, but I had to run a different wire to power the fuel pump. One possibility is a connector that goes near the alternator but isn't plugged into anything. I don't remember if it was plugged into anything before or not. It is a two lead connector that is in the same bundle with the two wires that are hooked up to the alternator. Any ideas on what I should look at?

Take it from me, boys and girls, don't wait until the night before a race to try to work on your car. You'll end up rushing to finish and then you'll do something stupid like intall a clutch disk backwards. It is possible and easy to do (at least with the kit that I got) and it won't work very well if you do it.

I already wired a seperate, new circuit for my electric choke. And yes mine was a feedback carb.

I've recently installed a Weber carb on my '81 hatch. In the process I removed the small wiring harness that went from two plugs near the passenger fender to several sensors around the engine bay. Most of them seem to be related to emissions control stuff for the Hitachi. There are only two things that I can figure out that I might want to keep. One is the water thermometer. The other I think is the oil pressure sensor on the front of the block near the bottom. Are there any other of these sensors that need to stay connected? The car runs great without any of them hooked up.

I'll check that out, but I didn't start poking around under the dash until after I discovered I wasn't getting any power to the fuel pump (verified with a meter). What does the fuel pump controller do exactly? I was under the impression that the fuel pump just runs constantly when ingnition power is on.

I do have a problem with the clutch cable (the original was secured with a pair of vice-grips and some hose clamps) but I think there's something wrong in the clutch assembly somehow as well. I tried actuating the clutch fork with a pair of large channel locks and it wouldn't budge. How much force should it take to move it? It felt like it was getting ready to bend, so I quit pushing on it. That's good to know about the weak assembly, though. I'll have to keep that in mind. Are there any theories as to why I'm not getting power to my fuel pump after removing and reinstalling my engine? Where is a good place to start troubleshooting? I found a fuse in a holder under the dash labelled as "fuel pump" that was still intact, but that's as far as I've gotten.

That's what I was hoping. I don't think I put it in backwards, but that's the only thing I could think of that might be wrong. It didn't take any hurculean efforts to get the PP to bolt on, so I should be good there. I guess I'll try changing out the clutch cable and see if that makes any difference. If not I suppose it's time to pull the engine again and see if I left some spacers in there or something.

I guess maybe I'll have to try to peek in there and see if I left some spacers. Is it even possible to install the clutch disk backwards? Would that cause symptoms like this?

I figured it was probably something like that. They even specified 4WD in their system, but I guess it's just a mistake. I'm sure I'm not the first person to find out the hard way. What kind of spacer was it? Where was it? I didn't notice anything, but I could have jsut been in a hurry.

I've got an '81 DL 4WD hatch that I've been using for rallycross this year. At the last event, I had a ton of problems with the clutch slipping, so I decided to replace it. I ordered a clutch kit from AutoZone, but the clutch disk had the wrong size hole. The splines on the disk measured 3/4" and the input shaft of my 4-speed was 7/8". I got that resolved with a new clutch kit (this time from Advance Auto). I got the clutch installed and slid the engine back into place, but now the clutch doesn't operate correctly. The pedal won't depress at all. It feels like there's no give at all in the pressure plate springs. The only thing I can think is that maybe I put the clutch disk in backwards and that's messing it up somehow. I'm also having problems starting the car after reinstalling the engine. I've recent put a Weber on there and it was running great. I traced the issue to the fuel pump getting no power. What might I have done during the removal and reinstallation of the engine that would cause the power to the fuel pump to suddenly stop working? I could always rewire a new power source to the pump, but I'd rather find the root cause than put a bandaid on it. So to sum up, 3 questions: Why would AutoZone have a clutch kit in their system that doesn't fit my car? Why won't my clutch work? Why doesn't my fuel pump have power anymore?