Prospeeder

erm turbo return spring....uhh i saw some kind of spring thing down there, lol. I havent done it yet, it rained like crazy today

ahhh so its just a bolt holding the assembly, may make things much easier knowing that

Hmm well i keep reading on how easy and how it takes 15 minutes to put the clutch cable in, all you have to do it unpin it from the pedal and undo it from the fork and its right out...... Im not seeing that obviously Getting the cable of the fork end, easy Getting it off the pedal, im having trouble, hows it unpin the Gold end part, theres no room for the pin to even be removed, its as if the pedal assembly ALL has to come out, wich im not sure how that is acomplished, then theres the 2 mounting bolts on the cable also, wich im getting pissed with the lack of room, how do you all magicly do it in 15 minutes, i spend 45 on it and gave up, because my class was almost over, and i just quickly put it back and left.

i have a dual range in mine and the stupid 4WD light wont go out, unless iv got the RPMs to like 5k and the alts brand new. It might be that my Gauge clusters messed up hardcore tho, cause the speedo sticks, the trip odometer dont work, and that lights all funky.

iv read somewhere that the Auto ones have more gear reduction for more power, but either should work.

hmm thats sucks...Did you have the heads milled properly for sure? Its odd it would just do that. My car sat for over a year and when i finally got it started the lifters were REALLY REALLY loud for days and now its quiet.

oils not going to help Piston slap, thats when the skirt isnt low enough and the piston sort of "flops" around a bit causing noise, many GM engines do it, and its considerd to be comepletley normal and causes no extra wear or adverse effects, usually when the engine hits operating temps, the piston gets hot and expands and the noise stops. Your probably hearing lifter tick.

ABS disc? The system moniters the function of wheel speed sensors, electronic selenoids for all the brake lines, and faults in the computer and control system. It sets a light for a non responding sensor so it shuts down the entire ABS system and brings up the light, so the system doesnt malfunction and cause a potentielly hasardous situation. The above components are what make up ABS systems for any vehicle. So you most likley will have to check the ABS codes to find out wich sensor it is, and replace it, wich is most likley your problem, the code will tell u exactly which sensor at which wheel was malfunctioning.

Umm i researched alot on my own GM cars finicky ABS system, but sometimes the speed sensors and wheel bearings are single units, so thier not servicable, but im not sure on your particular car. The codes are stored in the ABS computer untill the faul has not been detected for like, 50-100 key cycles. So Its in memory still im sure.

ABS are Anti-Lock brakes (they pulse the brakes for you so the wheels do not lock up, giving tractions so you can still steer your car out of possibly hazardous situations. Being too close doesnt mean anything, ABS usually doesnt stop you faster, just keeps the wheels from locking up) . You can take it somewhere to have the ABS code read and it will tell you exactly why the light is coming on, its very well possible a Wheel speed sensor is failing, and theres four of them, so I would just get the code read and find out exactly whats up.

well usually the screws laying in there somewhere, its the retainer screw for the rotor, mabye search, iv read about that quite a few times.

I would check the distributor, iv herd of some little screw working it way out causing no start and odd situtations like that.

yea dont run that, it eats at the rubber parts and causes leaks, it also produces alot of water when burning, causing super accelerated corrosion of the exhaust system

Oh just go to the j/y and get a muffler that looks good and quiet it down, and cops will never look at u again, or pray paint some of the rust or somthing so its not noticable.

why the hell did they stick a hose in the intake of that subaru, lol. thats alot of crap, thats for sure.

yea its defintly cruise on the stalk, and no buttons on the wheel. It says ON, OFF, ACELL, SET, and DECEL. whats the cruise servo even look like, im not seeing it anywhere (wich could very well be the problem.)

i have 175/70/R13s on mine, some Studded snow tires, they seem to grip the ice and snow very well

proabbly the reason it doesnt have decals is it was repainted, does the paint look fairy good? Heres a nice thread with all kinds of them http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51658 I like these ones for some reason http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/83turbowagon/

what about the ones that have cruise on the turn signal stalk? Any common problems related to the stalk? i wouldnt mind working cruise...

yuck, my moms old 92' Grand Am SE had a rat die in the vent, and the mechanic got it out, but ruined the ventalation system and we always had exhaust fumes getting into the vents and causing us to feel nausous and have headaches, but it was a very reliable car, we sold it like that, didnt probably had exhaust leaks, i still see it driving, its fairly rusty.

oh id be fine with above 20, but im defintly not getting that, lol. My mazda i romped the HELL out of it all the time and got like 280-300 miles to every 10 gallons, lol. Not used to having a little 4 banger car get such poor mileage.

yea mines not very warm, 10x better than my mazdas, but still sub par, i guess this spring when i drive my Pontiac ill replace the core and clean all the ductwork, find new seats, redo some gaskets and new tensioners and crap, get it all spiffy for next winter.

for real, we had some serious sheets of ice and below zero temps, and my RX in 4HI and 4 studs didnt even spin a tire or slid around a corner, and every truck and car were fish tailing, having ALOT of trouble taking off and all that

yea its defintly getting worse, it was just fine, then ab it of coolant smell, now its leaking out into the spark plug area, eek the OEM gaskets wont be here till probably wensday or thursday! The timing is dead on, well, belt timing, the disty timing isnt set properly, just so it runs ok. I run Premium in this thing too, and its getting some ************ty mileage, lol.

Ok, Im sorry for all these posts, but im at wits end, this car is showing more and more and more problems, im getting overrun! Coolant burning, now the power steering pumps SCREECHING when cold, it has poor mileage, poor performance, (i mean come on, my 88 Mazda 323 SE Sedan with a 80hp 1.6 felt about as fast) Now its got some starting and idling problems Well when it was cold, it used to just start righ up and idle fine. Now its starting and wanting to die right away, or hang the idle at like 200 or less rpms and shudder violently, if you rev it abit it catches and stays at a constant cold idle. WHe u start it warm, it has a very very poor, low low idle, like 200 rpms, and it revs very slowly, backfires through the intake, and when you start driving it it goes away. ALSO it makes this LOUD vibration noise like somthing ratting from the a/c/alt braket and it is tight, but its making alot of noise when gas is givin from 1-1500 rpms. I also found my coolant leak, defintly those intake gaskets, i found coolant pooled up around spark plug number 3. Some1 please help me, i want this car to run well so badly, i just replaced the PCV hoses and have an OEM PCV valve, Intake gaskets, and clutch cable coming.