Prospeeder

ok thier dealer gaskets, so no on the sealer. I got brand new bolts from the dealer. So ill make sure everything clean and what not then, thanks!

ok, in auto i got the whole thing apart, but my auto teacher says, if i never want to have to do this for a long time, or ever, that i should use this Anorberic (SPelling?) THe stuff that doesnt harden unless its not exposed to oxygen and turns to a plasticy sort of sealer. He wants me to put a thing layer of that on the gaskets, both sides. Should i do this? or am i asking for it to fail, i REALLY need this thing to just stop leaking, im not into doing this Again. Also, is there a torque sequence, i know its 14-16 lbs, but what order should i torque them?

throttle positioning sensor did that horrible hesitation from a stop also untill the car got hot

take like pecies of brush and stuff and spray over them, like make the whole thing green, then put some brush, and then a tan, then more brush a different tan/green or somthing, my dad did it with a tool box and it looks awsome! just an idea tho

when my radiator was clogged, it did quite the opposite, it ran cool when idling and going around town, but when you hit the highway or hills man it would climb up close to the red quick! Try a thermostat first, but of course check for cold spots on the radiator, my radiators entire left side was cool and the right side was hot hot hot.

where are these 60$ heatercores for EA82s i ask? The lowest i can find is over 100$

waterpump, plus there only like 30$

id love to know how you powerslide in a subaru, lol, the Parking brakes in the front!

My little Turbo sedan is getting decent milage for having the intake gaskets leaking and 90% city driving. I dont know exactly what yet, because my Trip odometer JUST unstuck itself the other day, so i filled it up to the top and im gonna see how many miles i can go on a tank.

I definitly know what you mean about it just keeps getting worse. I went from my car supposivly just having one broken timing belt, to a bad waterpump, clogged up radiator, leaking coolant lines, leaking intake manifold gaskets after a month or so. Im awaiting a different intake manifold in the mail and my car will be fully road fixed with hopfully no more problems for awhile.

if there anything like old seatbelt retractors, there are springs inside that get tired out and stop retracting the belt, so your probably going to have to replace the retractor or whole cargo cover

yes take that clutch fan and waterpump pully off to get the covers off, also would be a good idea to do the water pump, so unbolt the a/c compressor/alternator braket and swing it up out of the way and its about 20 minutes to change the waterpump. Timing belts = easy after you do them once.

well, anything normal temp is about 190-200 degrees, overheating would be 260 is probably the red zone. (its 260 on my Pontiac and Silverado, so thats my guess that 260 is HOT HOT)

75$ seems like a good deal for everything AND a working compressor, those things are way over 200$ new or reman!

I had window problems when i got my RX, the rear windows would barley move, and the passenger side one went sooooo slow, and my drivers one was decent, but still slow, took out all the switches, cleaned the contacs inside, and used white lithium spray grease and drenched EVERY part of the window mechinisms and the windows are fairly quick now, i think the motors are getting tired tho.

Ok my a/c line on the condensor is leaking, and i know this because there is greasy crap ALL over the line fitting, so if i just replace that oring, and probably alot of the other, would i just be able to vacuum out the system, and get a retrofit kit from walmart, use a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the system, and use the retrofit kit/oil and charge it up with R134a? and have it work, my compressor spings very free without drag, so its not seized or anything. does the car have to be running to recharge it also? and wich port do i fill it up at? Also about this Expansion valve, theres 4 different listings on parts america, which one is it??? im hoping its the 10.99 one, ahha. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=393&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Expansion%20Valve%20%2F%20Orifice%20Tube Any places to get a Drier for less than 30$? or is that even nessesary? the systems been low for probably less than 6 months, i got it and it still had a small charge.

im gonna guess since the factory put it there,i would keep it there, they usually dont put things like that there unless they need it, seeing as it would be a waste of money. better than taking chances eh?

Ha u must live in a nice place of washington, just about every soob including mine has rust, lol. Usually just rockers, behind the wheel wells, or fenders, never frame

Ha yea me and him talk about subarus all the time, lol. I showed him mine and he liked the black interior, Told him he could take it for a drive, but he said, Oh no, i would get jelous of that Turbo power you have, my little wagon is sooo slow! Such a nice car, he says he wont sell it because its not a worth a thing, hes put too much into it.

My US history teacher has owned his 1987 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD D/R Carbed since it was brand new. Its got a 3200$ paint job, brand new headlights, the interiro is PERFECT, it has 122k on it, and it doesnt have a flaw, it even has stock fog lights, and factory clear headlight shelds that go over the headlights. Original Cassett deck and all, very nice car.

My 100% stock RX interior Minus the CD player of course. I have some Kenwoods in the doors and Infinty Reference's in the back.

well from my autoshop teacher, the center hole is what actually supports the wheel (you know the hub or what ever slides into the wheels center hole), so the studs dont get all the stress and could possibly snap or somthing, not sure if i ever hear of that happening, but thats why factories do it.

There is a orange/faded red brat, 4WD 1st gen sitting in some guys front driveway, next to a corsica and a van and hasnt moved for years, its coverd in snow right now, but if u can wait till it melts a month or so i could talk to him, im in Omak WA, so im not too far away

Yea make sure its on the middle of the 3 lines on the flywheel through the inspection cover on the transmission. And then set the drivers up put the belt on, then rotate the enigine 360 degrees, then aim the passenger side up and then put that belt on, should start right up!

nope, its normal, it uses the a/c compressor to dry out the air so the windows dont fog/defog