jmickelct
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Posts posted by jmickelct
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Thanks John.
Assuming that all were power, any idea of what percent were heated (my 96 is) and can one tell from the lead if the replacement (junk yard) is?
John
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Hi,
Looking for a passenger side rear-view mirror for my 96' OBW.
Anyone know if a 95' Legacy mirror will fit?
John
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Roger that.
Will try to schedule some alone time with the engine before I deliver to mechanic and before its swapped.
Will start specing out requisite swap parts now and will include pan and internal gasket.
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OK...
Back on the happy train...
Though there are still a few questions as to coil pack compatibility (all the parts places indicate identical parts 95/2.2 & 96/2.5 and used ones are cheap and readily available within 20 miles), sounds like the rest should go.
Have monitored a few of the posts re: flex plates (re: growling\rattling...), should I consider replacing (or having a replacement on hand), should it "look bad" (will cracks\fatigue be apparent?).
Will dig deeper to bone up on the oil seperator thing and will be printing and compiling all of this for delivery to my mechanic. Will definately be replacing all seals (though may wait on the oil pan and valve covers/seals until the girl is in motion again.
Much appreciated all.
-John
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Wow Wayne, sounds like you've been through it... (and actually, I know next to nothing about A/C!)
If I end up having to buy one, will comb through the junkyards first (prices run $20-200... though obviously have no idea of how they were stored)... aftermarkets $250-400.. but I guess more reliable..
"1996 OEM is PAG for 134a refrigerant".... can you translate?...
Any ideas as to swappability between A/C compressors in a 95 2.2 and 96 2.5?
Getting conflicting yeas\nays....
I guess if I can get the car up and running now with the 2.2 and used 4EAT I can rob enough liquor stores to be able to get A/C by Summer!
-John
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Hi Nathan,
Will first of all be shooting for a complete 2.2 engine, with all of the "periferals"... but short of that..
Checked on Partsamerica.com, and rockauto.com and they list identical replacement part numbers on a 1995 2.2 and 1996 2.5 for:
Coil pack
Alternator
Starter
Power Steering Pump (some question @ rockauto)
(looks like spark plug wires are different... 2X price for 2.5!)
But list different A/C compressors.. (looks like the holes might line up differently).
95 2.2.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=67652&parttype=387&ptset=A
96 2.6
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=67443&parttype=387&ptset=A
Would *really* love not having to yank the A/C, and sounds like you've been into this. How sure are you on the A/C?
A little more info: you also need the 2.2 coil pack, plug wires, engine wiring harness, etc. The 2.5 AC compressor, Alternator, PS pump will swap right over. The stock 2.5 ecu will work just fine, and the '95 engine harness will plug right in to the connectors by the transmission. Works great.Nathan
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Moving ahead with swapping in a 95 EJ22 into my 1996 OBW (with dying EJ25).
Crosswalking the stuff the place I'm looking at strips off before they sell the engine) and so far:
A search at Partsamerica.com (thanks JE) has shown identical replacement parts for the two years\engines for:
Alternator
Coil Pack
Starter
Power steering pump
So am good there.
Looks like the 2.2 has a different AC Compressor than whats on my 2.5.
Can I just leave it off (until Spring)?
Outside of needing to replace the condensor, would this create any bad juju?
-John
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OK, so it sounds if I hard target a 95' 2.2 that comes *with* original intake manifold, throttle, and EGR that the rest should be good.
Pretty comfortable just swapping my current tranny (specifying same production date 12/95 and TZ102Z2ABA, as is mine).
Will look further on the details of the AC, etc. and plan on stopping down to my local Sube dealer with a box of donuts and $20 bill tomorrow and seeing how many additional compatibility details I can come away with..
Appreciate all the help.
-John
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The hammer and chisel will come in handy seperating the motor from the trans...which is usually a PIA if left to the elements. A hacksaw makes quick work of hoses that have broken or otherwise frozen clamps...or more importantly, an uncooperative exhaust manifold.
Still lots of fun getting bloody in the yard!
Jay
Roger that.... delicacy comes second...
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Wow, good to hear (and somewhat disturbing...).
Went through an earlier round of inputs... most folks were saying that the 95 2.2 had the dual port exhaust and EGR (as does my 96 2.5) and that everything else "was plug and play". (pretty sure that Grossgary has done the same swap on a legacy) Obviously strongly inclined to trust your experience..
Assuming I wanted to get an EJ22 in, (again I have a 96 OBW EJ25\4EAT), any idea of what year (and transmission pairing, EJ22/4EAT (what I am looking for), EJ22/5MT) match would provide the least # of problems in terms of (the things currently on my radar):
exhaust
ECU
EGR
wiring\sensors
(assuming the 2.2 will fit the 96 4EAT without issue, which should (as close as I can tell) circumvent the TCU and rear differential ratio issue (will be getting a replacement for my same 12/95 production date 4EAT).
I've been talking to a Subaru "master tech", who has a shop in his garage, and want to try and scout out as many of these issues as I can (since he'd shooting for doing the job within a day and obviously more issue=more time=$..
Thanks Josh..
The biggest question I'd have is if you're going to swap the intake manifold. That may not match up with the 2.2 heads. If that's the case, you'll have to pull the wiring harness from your current 2.5 and swap it over so you can use the 2.2 intake manifold, but keep the 2.5 wiring harness (The reasoning for this is that the harness connectors will likely be different between the 2.2 & 2.5)I don't know how the 2.5 ECU will handle the 2.2 either. There could be some ECU pins that are different.
I can see this project has a potential to be quite a pain in the rear depending on how things unfold, and how much documentation you have on each motors, etc.
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Found a used 1995 EJ22 that I want to swap into my 1996 OBW from a CT yard..
Things the 2.2 doesnt come with:
"starter, alternator, steering pump, turbo, supercharger, Ac compressor, and ECU. Coil packs, distributors and throttle bodies are not included."
"Almost all engines will include intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, fuel system, harness, and sensors. In most cases when installing a used engine you would use your existing intake manifold(s), exhaust manifold(s), sensors, and harness to eliminate complications." Almost?!!
How much will come off of and fit from my 2.5?
Starter
Alternator
Steering pump
AC Compressor
ECU
Coil Pack
Distributor (?)
Throttle body?
Sensors\Harness?
Once the 2.2 is in (and running!) will do the timing belt, water pump, seals, probably oil pump.... Can I use the (<3kmi) water pump, timing belt idlers from the 2.5?
Assuming the ECU will work and anticipate that the 95 2.2, with dual port exhaust will match my current exhaust.
Guestimates? as to seals, gaskets, incidentals that typically accompany such a swap?
(found a guy to do the engine for $500... he's saying same labor to do the tranny later.... $250... but will try to do at same time... will be getting a 1996 4EAT to try and avoid rear differential and TCU issues.
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For a newbie, can I ask what the implements of destruction are intended for (hammer, chisel, hacksaw)?...
Will be (paying someone) to swap a 2.2 for a 2.5 in my 96 OBW and am just curious if those are time saving shortcuts to keep yard time down versus something you'd do "the long way" on a car that ran.
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Brakes, calipers?
Have you checked the pads? (sticky piston?)
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Good to know and yes, please lets know how it goes...
I'm the kind of wus that gets ticked at how hard it is to even get to the damn plugs into my OBW (last car I did any work on was my 71' Nova, and you could bloody climb in and spend the weekend there!.... crescent wrench and a hammer and you could fix most things...). Still very much figuring out these tight compact aluminum computer deals.
Will have to start researching lifts\hoists next.....
Somehow seems that at least if you had the engine and tranny out and could see what the heck you were doing, you would at least have some purchase to grab ahold of different points and get them seated (obviously all theoreticaly for me since I've never done it). But clearly like the idea of manuevering a heavier, mated pair back in strategically versus busting knuckles in awkward positions for hours... but that just me...
Good luck.
John
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How about putting them back in (mated)?
Have seen posts about getting "the last 1\4 inch" right on the transmission seated back into the engine..(forcing of which reportedly can crush the transmission filter?).
Obviously seems that it'd be easier to wrestle them together outside.... If the clearance issues are adjusted when pulling out, can they be negotiated back in?
John
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Yeah... thats kind of where I'm heading...
A bit pissed that I'll be walking away from the $700+ that I just put into the 2.5 (TB, water pump, most all of the idlers..etc....), will try to get back in and yank and see if I can get something for em through here..
Any chance that the water pump would be the same, 2.2, 2.5?
Will definately put in an oil pump (learned my lesson!..) et al.... though may try to get by until Spring (or at least a warm patch...).
Feels like the leaky rear strut on my Impreza just blew out last night... so am getting the hints to get busy, quick...
If nothing shows by next weekend, will probably drive over to CT...
(think I fit a used engine in the trunk\rear seat of my Impreza)?
even if you got a less than 100k motor you'd still want new timing belts, water pump, oil pump seals etc. 145k vs. 100k on a 2.2 is really nothing, where as on a turbo motor or EJ25 you might think differently. the blocks are likely to be in identical physical condition. i'd keep looking too, but wouldn't rule that one out and would feel perfectly comfortable installing it in my vehicle (with new belts, pump, seals, etc) . -
Would be interested to knowing the build up to said emergence...
Have a 96 OBW with (increasingly likely) rod knock, now to the point that the engine is reluctant to even start...
Any emerging knocking sounds?
As per:
http://media.putfile.com/Knocking-Subaru-Engine-22L (early stages... IMO)
http://media.putfile.com/1996-Subaru-OBW-engine-knock
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58174&page=3&highlight=knock (final stages?!)
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John,
Thanks, very much appreciated...
Will add the rearend to my wish list (esp. if I can find a 95 Legacy with a 2.2\4EAT) will try to grab the whole drive line... sounds\feels like this should give me a 4.11, so will give me some latitude when I try the swap.
I will definately be sticking with an automatic so will be spending the weekend (pending the impending ice storm that we are threatened with!), counting teeth! (and combing for wrecks...) .
-John
i went to car-part.com and searched for rear diffs for 2.5's manual and a/t and 2.2 manual and a/t legacy / outback. what i learned is below.(AND THIS IS NOT DEFINITE, DO YOUR OWN REASEARCH) and i'm working from memory, but i posted this in the last 2 months so a search would show what i knew, not what i remember.'95 - '99
2,5's = outback's & gt's are 3.9 manual and 4.44 a/t
2.2's = legacy's 3.9 manual and 4.11 a/t
peoblems:
95 and 96 were transition years for the 2.5 engine / trans. so there is /was not enough information to assume that they matched the 97 -99 years. in other words, it is possible that 96 2.5 at had a 4.11. i don't know that they did but idon't know that they didn't. same for 95, only less so. did they even offer the 2.5 in 95??? by 97 the outback / gt was set at 2.5.
now for corrections:
i have been corrected before and i don't argue the point, but ... the trend seems to be what i have stated above.
the other thing to do is to compare the tranny numbers. tz102z2xxx is a 2.5 a/t (97 - early 99, maybe 96 to 99). tz102zAxxx is a 2.2 a/t.(in a 95 2.2L leg sedan. i swapped a 96 2.2 leg wagon a/t into the sedan with no problems so i assume that the 96 is an 'A' as well. i did some tranny number research last year and posted, more searching might confirm. try "tz102zaaaa")
i don't have or know part numbers for manual transmissions, sorry. when searching legacy rear "carrier"s (differentials) the first question they ask is 2.5 or 2.2. they then go to mnaual or a/t .
conclusions: (and this is a strech)
manuals are 3.9 and a/t's depend on the engine. (DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH)
get a tranny that matches your engine/tranny model and year!!!!! if not get the diff to go with it. especially if you are changing from 2.5 to 2,2.
when in doubt , call the dealer give them the vin and ask, for both the donor car and the receiving car. i recommend 2 dealers just ot be sure. some parts guys are not the sharpest knives in the drawer.
regarding gear ratios and teeth:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=520095&postcount=9
good luck, john
PS i spotted a complete 91 legacy LS 2.2L sedan awd a/t abs today in a salvage yard, keys on the front seat. wrecked front, (bad front bumper grill, hood, etc. and dented left side all the way back.) last driven before something /03, inspection sticker was '03. your guess is as good as mine about the engine but the tranny might/should be good. miles were either 61k or 161k. if interested let me know, i'll double check and ask about it.
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Roger that....
From New Milford myself, so know the area... am looking at a 2.2 in Waterbury, only $375 but its got 145k on it... I know, I know, "thats not that much for a Sube".... but would very much like to start with something less than 100k...
I'm a big fan of self-service junkyards. Maybe not ideal for a motor or tranny but they are great for all those little things you might want. If you do find one that has a good motor they might help pull it for a fee; depends on the yard. Or bring a couple friends.You just have to call and ask around locally and go in there. Have a small bag of tools with you and more in the car; any yard-picker worth his salt has what's needed to get the parts off the cars. Many times they'll say "no" on the phone due to insurance + legal stuff but if you show up you're fine. I know a couple good ones in CT and MA but that's kinda far from you. If you can you get to Southington CT see Chuck & Eddie - look 'em up.
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Roger that....
From New Milford myself, so know the area... am looking at a 2.2 in Waterbury, only $375 but its got 145k on it... I know, I know, "thats not that much for a Sube".... but would very much like to start with something less than 100...
I'm a big fan of self-service junkyards. Maybe not ideal for a motor or tranny but they are great for all those little things you might want. If you do find one that has a good motor they might help pull it for a fee; depends on the yard. Or bring a couple friends.You just have to call and ask around locally and go in there. Have a small bag of tools with you and more in the car; any yard-picker worth his salt has what's needed to get the parts off the cars. Many times they'll say "no" on the phone due to insurance + legal stuff but if you show up you're fine. I know a couple good ones in CT and MA but that's kinda far from you. If you can you get to Southington CT see Chuck & Eddie - look 'em up.
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Finding conflicting info on matching trannies to rear differential (and how to even tell what rear end I have)..
My 1996 OBW 2.5\4EAT engine and tranny went south.... Looking for:
1. First choice 1995 EJ22\4EAT combo out of the same (crashed) car
2. 1995 EJ22 and 1996 4EAT from seperate cars...
Question still looms:
A. How do I know what my current rear differential ratio is? (is pulling the plug and counting "teeth" the only way? How many count for what ratio?
B. How will I know what rear end option #1 needs (4.1 or 4.44?)
Since they seem to be so cheap, even tempted to
- Try to find out what I have
- Pick up "the other", so I have both on hand...
Some folks claim
EJ2.5 automatics are all 4.44
manuals are 4.1
But that might diverge with 2.2....
I'm getting the impression that this might be a trial and error deal...
Opinions?
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67201&highlight=rear+differential+4.1
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How about if I do as several posts suggest: pull the plug on the rear end and count the threads (?).... For my 96 EJ25\4EAT, any idea of what number will match up to what my ratio is? (I may run another thread on this to see if anyone might take a guess...). This being my first time through with the mechanic I've found, I'd like to try and ferret out any potential issues as much as I can up front...
I actually did get into an auction where I actually bought this car ($2650 @ auction.... guy who got me in drove it up another $1200, but it was still well under book... too bad it *:!(* the bed....!!!). I thought there actually were a few wrecks up there... so who usually buys these things? Small shops for swapping parts from?
i have a contacts in the auto world that allows me to go to the dealer only auctions, those are the ticket if you know someone or get access. sometimes they have public auctions as well, PA is well known for it's auctions. otherwise keep your eye out on here, ebay, etc for wrecked vehicles. they're typically not available often enough to snag when you need it, but they come up sometimes and i buy them as parts car. took me a few months to get the wrecked EJ parts cars i wanted. junk yards will sell entire vehicles, just have to see what they want for it.it's definitely not as simple as saying an auto is a 4.44 and a manual is a 4.11. Subaru tried to confuse the entire world when they went with the EJ stuff and final drive ratios...and they succeeded. there's a good list out there for nailing down the manual trans gear ratios but EJ stuff is harder to figure out, no good charts or anything that i've seen. probably the biggest PITA in dealing with transmissions.
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But on matching the rear differentials.. can I ask again how that is done in practice? Does it hold that an automatic will have a 4.44 rear end and a 5speed a 4.1?
And (seems like it should be obvious but I have to confess to not know) will the same junk yards that sell used engines\trannys also be the same sources for wrecks? (always wondered where the junkers go after the insurance pays off...) the the online shops (junkyarddog.com kind of places) pretty much it, or are there other wreck places that have the whole cars?
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Both very good tips...
Starting to locate junk yards within driving distance... would very much like to be able to see anc check out the unit before buying (versus having it shipped).
Will be interested to see also about VIN on transmission.
95 Legacy Mirrors fit a 96 OBW?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
OK, very good to know.
Many thanks.
John