jmickelct

How would it change? Frequency, pitch, intensity? Tried it.... pulled all plugs, no change (just as loud, same rythm, etc..) Can valve knock be *really* loud?... warmed the volume clearly decreases, cold its *loud*

Hi, Started getting a slight tick a week ago, not getting pretty loud. For a while it went away when warm, now is hanging in there. Long screwdriver has isolated down to the passenger (right?) front valve (area), if it was a rod knock, could it (appear to be) coming from this same area? Are there solutions to a knocking rod (short of a rebuild?).

(Walden, your just up the road (Monroe). Thanks, good to know, will keep them on file... still hoping the tranny I get tomorrow will match my rear differential... may need a rear end fast if it doesnt... -John

Thanks... The on-line BBB for that area lists them as "acceptable", so will give them a shot.

Yes I did reseal the oil pump during the TB change (the grey goop stuff) checked the phillips crews (1 was loose) and locktited and put in a new O ring (and obviously crank seal) (didnt open up the back or check clearance). I did experience the trickiness of trying to get the O ring to stay in place while I fitted the pump over the crank shaft... first couple of times it fell loose, "tacked" it in place with a dab of the sealant, so was reasonably sure that it was in place when I bolted it, but, without being able to see it, who knows... The MMO seems to be doing something (3rd day)... clacking duration after warm up is lessening, but on start up its frightening loud.. its clearly coming from the front passenger (right?) side valves... (big screwdriver isolates clearly, even from the rear valves..) I guess the big question I've almost been afraid to ask is, if its not the valves, can the cams or cam bearings (or ? crank? or connecting rods, others?) go and produce this kind of knocking? Guessing that that would be a much differrent exercise than just reseating or replacing the oil pump. (will definately replace if I go in, even though the cars only got ~122k miles... have to assume original pump) Have been having the oil done at a number of places, been sticking pretty close to 3k intervals (theres a Fram on there now). Also the bottom of the oil pump is bone dry and clean as a whistle, so if its leaking, it must be internal... (which kind of kills my weak oil pump theory...). Can the pump fail internally without leaking? A mechanic today also suggested that there are some kind of sleeves in the valve passages that can somehow contact the valve, causing it to knock.. Any thoughts about a SeaFoam fix? (or others?... running out of speculative options!...) Thanks, John BTW.... the computer reset also seems to have eliminated my torque bind!!! (unless its just the weirdest coincidence...)

Heres yet another aspect that is really cooking my noodle... My torque bind is also gone!... turns as smooth and effortlessly as I've ever driven it.... Go figure... Will head down and pick up the unit tomorrow.... Thanks... appreciate it...

Any idea of going through the above is the one of the few ways of actually registering oil pressure (and assessing status of oil pump)? Getting pretty loud valve chatter and suspect that the pump may not have seated properbly during TB job. Would very much like to have an idea before tearing it all out.

Roger that... Will use the time to do the oil pump... (any experience with checking oil pressure?..... putting the pieces together, I am guessing that I may not have got the "O" ring on right when I reseated the oil pump during the TB change... noticed valve click right away... coming and going... now the right side valve are pretty loud... figuring either worn\weary\poorly seated oil pump or some gunk in an oil channel...). Marvel Mystery seems to be having some effect (will run Seafoam over the weekend), next step, will replace the oil pump..

Hi, Actually did not disassemble the whoe (back of) oil pump (some of the screws were on pretty tight, so I just left well enough alone (or so I thought...). Man, just took it out to test the tranny again... the car is driving like a *bear* but the valve tap is even louder... may end up trying a new unit over turkey-weekend (and will see if I can fish down some of the channels to see if I might also have gummed up the works...). Will definately try the SeaFoam thing first... Cheers, John

Hi Yes... have been checking in between oil changes, which I've been pretty regular @ 3k... As to what they've been putting in, I have to assume that they have that much on the ball. I do have a quart of Lucas No-slip in there, and, other than refilling after the TB, (Dexron III) havent had to add any.

Yeah, Gotcha there.... It was only $250 and thatd be cheap insurance (It I *didnt* have one I *know* it'd die!).

I guess my question is: If resetting the computer changed how the transmission shifts now, what threw it out of whack in the first place and could swapping the tranny now (potentially) replace whatever caused it, or could I just end up with a new\used tranny and some faulty electronic\computer issues still waiting to be diagnosed? Could the TCU be the culprit? How hard to swap? (seems like its pretty cheap). Since I've never had the CEL come on, could the tranny have been returning codes (that I never checked?) or are codes only displayed with the CEL being illuminated (again sorry, before this my most current car was a 91' Honda!).

Hi, Gotta make a command decision (on, it seems, half a brain and no computer-car experience!...) tonight! 96 OBW 2.5 automatic, just got it in June 06, 111k. (Sube *and* computer car virgin) Just after timing belt in late August, transmission started to slip a bit... took it in, rebuild, $4-5k, yada... Noslip helped some, its slowly slipping more (seems like 3rd gear mostly). Today wasnt sure if I'd even get to work.. Been searching for used 4EAT... Also, the passenger side valves starting clattering a week ago, esp. cold, idle, ... (now in Day 2 of MMO in crankcase, some better, may try SeaFoam over the weekend). Also the cars been starting to idle a bit rough... So just for the hell of it today, @ lunch, yanked the battery cable, ~3hrs, to see what would happen..... Drive home was like driving a new car!!!! No Slip, couldnt make it slip!.. Also shifted smooth, (up and down) strong and had great power and acceleration! WTF!!! Heres the deal: have already paid for a used tranny ($250\61k), have a rental car to go pick up with in PA on Saturday and have a shop on hold to swap it in on Monday ($450). So: - Problem was obviously Electronic (not the tranny itself, at least originally) - I've been clearly slipping the hell out of it for the past ~3months\5k miles.. probably cooked it good - Never had CEL come on (looked for codes tonight, after reset, nada.. duh..) - Have no idea of what made it start slipping in the first place - Assuming its electronic, (my v. slim knowledge base so far) Main Computer itself TCU (?) Stuff internal to the tranny (solenoids, connectors, etc...) Could swapping the tranny also swap possible (internal\E) culprits? Since I've clearly shortened the trans life, although its running better, would the swap make a sense or just waste $700 leaving me to find the actual problem!?! Thoughts\Opinions much appreciated?:-\ -John

Hi, Yeah, have considered all of that.... If the MMO doesnt work, just picked up some SeaFoam.... if that dont work will dive in and take a look at the pump.. And yes, first time trying to mount the pump I had the same o-ring slip, tried to be careful, but who knows.... Would really like to get a read before yanking though (I've had pretty bad local-shop karma and dont have a guy who I use regularly and trust...). Stopped into a local guy today who wanted $85 for a combo oil and compression test.... seemed steep, but if they gotta fiddle with yanking and fitting a bunch of stuff, maybe it'd be worth it (but thats what the pump itself costs... so am tempted... An even more pressing event developed earlier today on the tranny... In addition to the trans slip and the valve clunk, the whole car has been starting to run a bit rough (esp. @ idle... ), so, honestly cant say what made me do it, but just for the hell of it I pulled the battery cable over lunch and let it sit until I was heading home. It was like driving a new car!!!!!! No slip, couldnt make it slip, *lots* of power, shifted (up and down) smooth and strong.... *NOW* my head is really twisted, because, on my way home, I picked up a rental car, to drive to PA on Sat. to pick up a used tranny!... Will be posting this on a whole new thread, because I gotta make a call on this tonight, (in 2 conferences tomorrow and have already paid (CC) for the tranny... More in a new post... Thanks again, John

Hi, OK. So this isnt something that I can just drive into most shops and say "hook me up, and do the compression test too, while you're at it...: Any experience with oil pump failure (speed of failure?). As close as I can tell (from search the posts), if my current pump is heading south, the increasing clatter (started less than a week ago... first when cold, now pretty much all the time and getting louder... especially @ idle, seems from the passenger (right?) side valve assembly), could be being caused by not enough oil pressure getting lubricant "up there", while @ low RPMs.. Can an oil pump "go" quickly? (I did check, tighten and locktite the phillips screw on the back when in there... did not feeler gauge it...) Feeling less challenged by going back in (now that I've done a timing belt), though cant say I'm eager to spend the day(s)... That plus the fact that I'll be having a used trannie stuck in on Monday...

OK, Seems like like a dumb question, but, since I dont know how, here it is: How do I measure my oil pressure? (96 OBW 2.5) My valve ticking has grown pretty loud (Marvel Mystery in last night, still waiting for a miracle), have to consider that the oil pump (that I *didnt* change when I did the timing belt) may be hosed... Before I tear into it, wanted to get some idea if its putting out (enough). -John

Hi, Thanks, wasnt sure that, by shipping stuff out of state might "buffer" them from local BBB feedback, but will certainly give them a ring.... (finger crossed, they gave me a very good price...). -John

Hi, Got a hot tip on a used 4EAT in PA for my 96OBW that is drammatically cheaper than everything else in my neighborhood, which, if it pans out, could save me a huge chunk of $. (too good to be true? will ya' look at the teeth on that gift horse?!) Anyone have any experiences with Hazle Auto Parts in Hazleton, PA (good or bad)?

Thats amazing, thanks. Can I ask how you were able to track these down?

Hi, Yeah, roger that. No responses so far. Did a bid on Junkyarddog.com.. got a lot of auto "bids".... starting to wheedle them down, but theyre all in the $500 (170k!) up to $1500 (lower)... Will definately check out your links.... On the differential\rear end of things, if I endup with a 1996 (production date 06/95-06/96) 4EAT with a SN or TZ102Z2ABA, can I have reasonable assurance that it'll go into mine? -John

(Sorry for the lameness....) CCR being the folks out in Colorado? Yes, would very much like to get a unit that will clearly work... seems like they are well respected here.. Have been getting a range of responses when queried about warrantee... Some give a year, some just say "huh???... most give 90 days.... None, so far have even mentioned labor.... Prices for the used units are also a lot higher than what was suggested.... I was told $240-400 for used, cheapest one I've found so far is ~$700 (including shipping)... many are $1-1.5k.... Still been getting a lot of mixed info on the year\apppropriateness of what units will go in mine.... Some say 95-98, some 95-98 (except for 97), some say only 96 (06/95--6/96 production dates...). Some say 95-98 but the rear differential may require swapping (4.1 v.s. 4.44..."the only way to tell what you have is to pull the plug and count the teeth!"...). Local Dealer says only way to know is to match the VIN of the car it came out of to mine.... So still very much in research mode... Cheers, John

Hi, My tranny is starting to slip pretty good (anti-slip stuff has helped some) but have resigned myself to sticking in a used 4EAT. A few folks have suggested that a "good" local shop could swap out the units in the $150-250 range.... I've been getting quotes of $500-$1k, and was wondering if that might be due to a higher \hour cost (seems like most repair outfits are pushing $80-100\hr rates)... for my region S. NY State\Metro NY-NJ, versus more rural places. Most shops are figuring 5+ hrs... plus fluid (a couple are throwing in tranny flushes...). Anybody in S. NY\W. CT have suggestions of reputable shops? -John

Hi Shawn, Thanks. I did dig around a bit on the list and I'm still fuzzy on actually acertaining the exact gear ratio. Some posts say you cant really tell from the Trans # and, short of actually draining the rear end and and looking at the # of teeth, its somewhat hard to tell. Suggestions? Cheers, John

Hi, Well that little hesitation that I've been ignoring is now growing more and more obvious as a slipping transmission (seems to be 3rd gear...). I notice every once in a while, while while driving at highway speed, as transmission is either down or upshifting (minimal load) the tach will spike and bob up and down, with not much affect in driving speed or load. Also while going up a hill, it seems to be shifting a lot, and, well it just feels like its not entirely engaged. So, with the load of metal on the bottom of my trany pan last week, seems to be asking for a tranny... Am also noticing a kind of ringing\whistling kind of sound from down yonder, that I am guessing may be what the trans shop folks described as chatter... (shop replaced some of the fluid, so cant really tell if its burnt). So having been disuaded away from the rebuild route, (just too poor) am just now launching into the search for a used AT (starting to get some local suggestions from my shop) and was wondering (once I get the part\tranny number thing ironed out, and can be sure that what I buy will work on my wagon), if folks would suggest sources of reasonable used units?

Roger on all accounts... Right now work is sufficiently jammed up that I'm tempted to use the $20 discount coupon I got in the mail to have the local Monroe shop do the power flush. And Nipper, yes, they did pull the pan (not sure if they were just fishing or not, I actually had a good feeling about the guy but not good enuf to cough up the kind of kaching that he was looking for). Tires are new, so on to having the flush..., Will report back. -John