croak
Members-
Posts
99 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by croak
-
Kinda sounds like a simple clutch cable problem to me, might need to be adjusted/ replaced. If the clutch was bad it would slip in gear, but I can't see how a worn clutch would make it hard to get in gear. If you can shift into all the gears w/ the motor off but not with it running the cable would be where i'd start. If you put it in first with the car off, then start it, does it drive?? my $0.02 croak
-
So get this, the Nevada Smog certificates don't give result numbers anymore. I just did mine. (passed btw) I asked the guy where you can get the numbers from, he said you can go to the emissions lab next to the main DMV, and they can get the results for you. Dalton if you go get the results and post them, I'm sure someone on here can help you indentify your problem. It should also tell you if it only failed on the visual inspection you mentioned. hope that helps croak
-
My waggon is an '82 I can try and take some pics if you could give me some more specific info of what you are looking at. Or if you come into Reno I could meet you so you could take a look. croak
-
where exactly should I use the RTV, Ive read about the valve cover trick, but not sure where else I should need it. croak
-
Getting ready for a clutch job, and a reseal while the motor is out. Was wondering if I'm gonna need any special tools or if any body has any tricks or tips. Never been in the motor that deep, but Ive read quite a bit about most of it on the board. oh ya '87 n/a GL waggon 131k. thanks in advance for any help croak
-
So I'm getting ready for a carb rebuild on the '82 GL 1.8 4wd waggon and I'm having trouble with parts. Problem is Napa lists 3 carb kits and I don't know which one I need. So whats the difference, is the carb number stamped somewhere. I tried searching and all I came up with was "junk the Hitachi and get a Webber" which I'm really not up for. any help would be greatly appreciated. by the way the car is 01/'82 2 barrel if that helps thanks croak
-
cool, I do have O2 censor, anyone know where to find info for it.
-
So, whats the deal w/ 1982 ECU, Does it have one?? All the info on Roo ECUs starts at '83. My car gets crappy mileage and just wondering if there is an ECU that could be causing issues thanks croak
-
HOLY %$#@, just called dealer to see what they want for axle, $245 WTF
-
probably selling it
-
the auto zone here says they can't get the GCK axles and they said the duralast are NEW axles not reman. Kragen can get the GCK but they want $40 core
-
Whats the deal w/ the DURALAST axles, has anyone used them are they any good???
-
just realized that was probably the case
-
just picked up an '82 DL 4wd waggon w/ 180k, little body rust but motor is in great shape. Anyway I'm getting a pretty gnarly clicking from the front drivers side wheel mostly when decelerating and turning right (when all the weight is on that wheel). I noticed the washer behind the castle nut had some play in it, so i bought the socket and tried to suck it up (hoping to make it last long enough) to get it apart and check out the bearings. Put about a half a turn on it put in new cotter pin and drove it home. Apparently when i tightened it I loosened the rust that was holding it together, because when i got home and checked it out the nut had sheered the pin and slid straight out when i pulled the nut it was obvious that a former owner had cross-threaded the nut all the way on (how dumb you gotta be to do that) . the nut was totally shot but most of the threads on the axle look alright, so i tried a new nut but no luck new nut is toast, but it doesn't look like it did any more damage to the axle. So my question is this, how hard is it to swap axle, what special tools do I need? The book I have says it needs to be pressed together w/ a press. Is this true? The other possibility is trying to fix the threads is there someone near Reno with the correct die? Please help croak
-
just bought maroon '82 gl wagon smogged and runs great pics 2 come
-
ive noticed on my 87 wagon that if i disengage right where i would shift it works the best (between 1st and second seems to work the best) push in the clutch dissengage 4wd switch gears release clutch. (usualy have to do it because the wife puts it in 4 and can't get it out.
-
if the tranny is slipping it probably needs to be let out. some clutch houses will adjust for free. if not get the book and find out what the play is, it should be near a half inch, but they like to try and confuse you with numbers like 17/32. I eyeballed my 87 and it works fine. just make sure you tighten the locknut.
-
Whats fair for an '82 brat w/ pics
croak replied to croak's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
thanks for all the help. I may have found a hatch a bit closer. its newer (87)less miles(125k) and much cheaper(900 obo). I will aply all suggestions to the hatch or whatever i go with. thanks again italo -
Whats fair for an '82 brat w/ pics
croak replied to croak's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I cant see any rust in the pics (havent actualy seen in person) bed looks clean, wheel wells look clean too, it needs a new passenger side caliper, but he has it and is throwing it in. It sounds like the thermo switch for rad fan is gone, but it just happened and its been parked since it went out. *edit*the guy seems pretty willing to negotiate the price. here are the pics http://web.mac.com/luckycatastrophy -
Whats fair for an '82 brat w/ pics
croak replied to croak's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
cool thats about what i thought. Is there anything specific i should look for when I go look at the car? anything i should be carefull of? -
I might be able to get ahold of an 82 brat 158k on body 70k on engine, runs good, just smogged body looks pretty clean (little to no rust), has shell, new clutch, new shocks and struts asking 2200. I know these brat prices are driven by rarity, but does that sound fair or a little steep?? croak