heep70

You don't deliever? :-\ Man, whats this world coming to. You going to be home today 6/5?

Last year Subaru used to offer just the boots. These are for a set I took out of my old subaru before I sent it to the crusher. They were new, but in order to get them out I ripped the boots. It would be a wast to through them away.

Where can I get balljoint boots for my 86 4x4 wagon? I don't need the balljoints just the boots that fit them. They are the balljoints from Subaru. Thanks

Ahhh, found it. It is an SUV tire. I was looking at the LT tires. Cool http://www.coopertire.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=SUV&id=28&title=SUV+Tires

Are they special. I went to ther website and they are not offered. http://www.coopertire.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=LtTruck&id=28&title=Light+Truck+Tires

Yes, the way it sounds it only heats up on climbs. He was figuring that the rad might be the reason. Anything else it might be? He keeps up with the maintance and services on the car very well. It has allot of miles and still runs great, but thats a Subaru.

A buddy of mine is having problems with his 86 Subaru wagon getting hot while driving up inclines. The car is not around here, so I am just looking for ideas on what the problem could be and anything else that would solve the issue. The car is well serviced. Thanks

Try some Marvel Mystry Oil along with the new oil. (8oz). That will help chase the water out of the lifters and bearings. You should be OK after that.

Drain the oil and put fresh oil in. Drive it around for an hour or two and that will evaporate the rest out. If you didn't drive it around the water should only be in the pan.

Nice meeting you also. I will put the tires to good use.

Anyone else done this yet? I am wondering what your results are and what you went for (performance wise) when you had it done. I really like my results. Shes not a rocket, but she runs really smooth now with better throttle responses.

LT, Check the vac can on the disty. Sounds like a blown diaphragm. Let me know

I am also interested in the results of this thread. I also have the same noise in my 86 wagon and have checked the mounts to find them good. I have also noticed the noise is more frequint when it rains. Guess which state I live in.:-\

I just swapped out my manual rack for a PS rack. It was easy. The boots on the ends are pretty thick. I used a pickle fork and made it without ripping the boots. If you have a puller that would be the way to go.

I was running a 9 degrees before, now I can run a 12 degrees easy. Before the work was done ALONE the vac adv was 30 degrees at full open. I just did a run to the Portalnd swap and back. Man, that car runs nice now even with a 2,500 watt Onan and cart in the back. I lost a bit in MPG but I think I might had been enjoying the throttle a little.

The mechanical advance springs were changed and he had to put a stop pin on the vac can to stop it from advancing so much. I was not there when he did the work and I don't know what springs he used. That is all determind by the guy and what his machine tells him and also how you want it set up. I am sure it will help you out, but keep in mind that things might change when you do the pistons. You might end up having it re-curved again. Just something to keep in mind.

Wow, you are one more day closer to Monday then me. Ha, ha, Cheers

Ah yes, you are right. Its Friday and time to do this I fixed it in the thread explianing that. Thanks

HHHmmmm, When you advance the timing you advancing the spark to fire farther after TDC. That would move the spark forward. Crap, now I am confused :-\ .

You can get spring kits, but as far as limiting the vac adv is the hard part. The vac cans are not adjustable. Steve had to put a stop pin in it to stop the movemnet at a certian point. He did mention that these distributors are much like a Toyota.

$60 for mine and that has been what I was charged for all the other ones he has done. This was his first Subaru distributor he has done. My car was down so I told him to keep it for a few days to see what all ways he could modify these distributor for future purposes.

EDITED: to correct what I ment by when the advanced spark is fired. Dizzy = distributor The old kind with the rotor under the cap. Picture the distributor curve as a graph. The horsepower starts out low and as you increase in RPMs (gas peddle) the horsepower increases. At a certian point the horse power peaks and starts to drop off even though you are still giving it gas. You can change how the curve climbs and peaks at different RPMs by changing some parts in the dizzy. All stock dizzies whether OEM or after market are set up with more advance then what is really needed. Ford the Subaru are the worst from what I gather. My Subaru dizzy had 30 degrees of just vac advance stock. This allows for the spark to be thrown way before the piston has reached TDC. By bringing the advance back closer to TDC where the compression is really at gives the car more power. This is done by adjusting the movement in the vac can and using different weighted springs. You tell the guy what your car has, how it is running now and what you want it to run like. Then they build it. I am not sure what spi is. I am a carburetor guy all the way (oldschool). If the dizzy has springs and a vac can (vac advance dizzies) it can be modified. Some dizzies only have the advance springs and no vac cans(mechanical dizzies). They are also candidates. They guy has done many of my 460 Ford dizzies over the years. He has always amazed me with his work. Note: as I said above, the results were pretty noticeable. I did not ask for whip lash results and did not get them. You tell him what you want and he will get it as close as he can. You can only do so much with a stock dizzy and these Subaru dizzies are a bit tough being there isn't any after market parta available. G&M Honest Performance, Steve "The Shoe" Grove Federal Way, Wa Phone253-927-8653

I had my EA82 dizzy re-curved seeing if there would be any possitive results or if it could be done. WOW, what a difference. Not in hug amounts, but pretty noticable. I have no more piston ping at all and lots more power in the lower and mid range RPMs. It also runs a heck of allot smoother. I had him set it up to have the major part of the power band run inbetween 1350 - 3000RPM, so now there is 17 degrees mech advance and 16 degrees vac advance. I wasn't looking for any raceable results just better, smoother, lower power driving. I think I got it, I am pretty happy with the outcome. I knew these Ea82 weber wagons had more power somewhere.

Looks like someone tried to wash the back tire.

Highrise? I am not sure what the difference is, but I have a gray console (minus shifter piece) from my 86 manual. If it is something you want come and get it.