heep70

I checked the booster and it is OK. Yes, the thought of the new MC being bad is in my mind also. I have had bad MCs that leaked back on my Ford. Nothing like this. Usually I can pump the pedal hold it and feel it go down. This one you can pump it and just push it right down without much effort at all. It was the same way with the old MC. To give you and idea of the amount of pressure it takes to push the pedal down. It takes the same amount of force as when I bleed them. It is like there is a bleeder open. When I bleed the brakes the pedal does go all the way to the floor. There is pressure. The only different method I have not tried when bleeding is to turn the car upside down. Yes, I also bench bleed the MC. Thanks for the repies

What is a fix for power steering whin in these Subarus? Its not the belts. I don't want to cahnge the pump out if I can help it.

I need suggestions on my brake problem. It is an 86 wagon disks on all four corners, new pads, new MC. I must have bleed a gallon of fluid so far and I am bleeding them using the "x" pattern. No fluid lose at all. Callapers are working and do no leak. Here is the deal. The car stops, but I can, with not much force, push the peddle down to the floor. Even when i pump the peddle I can still push it all the way down. The amount of force is just with the toes of my foot. I am now pointing my finger at the power assist diaphram. Anyone else run across this problem?

Dang that is nice.

Not looking for seats. Just ideas from the other forum (EBrackets).

Check the manuals and find out what ohm resistance your stock coil is and find one with the same resistance. I ran across this with my Ford. I burned up one Mallory and two MSD distributors by not matching the right resistance coil. I believe (my Subaru anyway) that it uses a 1.2ohm resistence coil. Thats what I think burned up my Accel. It measured at 1.4ohms.

Thanks for replying. Thats what I needed to know.

How about Brats?

Are the bolt patterns the same for all Subaru front seats? I have an 86 wagon. What all other (years, models) subaru seats will bolt in directly?

How much MMO do you add per tank of fuel?

Hey Turbone, Mine lasted about five minutes before it had a melt down. It was an Accel 8140. What is your ohm resistince across the top?

OK, they are yours. Emailed you.

And it begins allready

Thanks guys, I was just passing on the savings. I run across good deals like that every once and a while. calebz's Subaru is first on my bagging list. By the way I have two more sets left. Unfortunately, someone had to back out. First one to post gets them. $16 + shipping. You guys ROCK Cheers

How many bulbs are there all together?

Replaced the alt. Problem solved. Thanks for the replies.

I thought the same thing, so I checked all the wires off the engine to where ever. They all looked good. I am going to recheck in the morning again. I might even run a new ground from the alt bracket to the body.

Thats cool. What bulbs did you change to?

When I got home I put my meter on it and it was reading 12.5 volts. When I gased it, it didn't move much. I figured it was the regulator just couldn't understand why all the warning lights came on. Thanks for replying.

All my dash warning lights are lighting up all at the same time (Not real brite). Even the unlock, defrost and bright light indactors are on. I also noticed my volt gauge starting to climb. What all does this mean? I am guessing the regulator in the alt is shorting out. Was wondering if anyone else has ever experinced this?

Chainsaw Just kidden. I have a class all day Saturday. Friday after 6:PM OK? Say, That part you should me with the three coiled up wires for the blower fan. Want to sell me one?

Qman, I need to drop off a set of wires at your place so Mike can get them on Saturday. Mike W may have mentioned someting to you allready. What is a good day and time?

Ya, I put my origonal rusty old stock one back one and she fired right up and purrs like a kitten. I probably got a hold of a bad coil. That is usually the way it goes in my house.

You might also take it to an auto shop that can test the spark off the center post. rallyruss mentioned a KV test. I believe that is the test they do to find out if the spark is good. Also while you are inside the distributor check the air gap and also the advance pod vacumm. This is a shot in the dark here. Can you see with a timing light if the spark advances when reving the engine?