heep70

I went through this issue with MSD and Mallory on another coil/dist problem I had. They were very clear about making sure that I was using the right resistance on my coil. They stated That it is OK to be under, but not over. It will either burn up the module or the coil. I am not real hip on electronics, but I do know that once I had they right set up in my pickup I had no more problem since. As far a spark on the Subaru. It was arcing a 1/4" and it was clear/blue, still would not fire. Not saying your wrong, but it sure fooled me for half the day. I put my old stock coil in and it fired right up. I am not sure of the pickup module you are talking about. Please inform me. Thanks

Check the restance of the coil. It is supposed to be 1.2ohms across the top. Mine did the same thing. I measured mine and it was 1.4ohms. More than likely the coil if trash now. Take it back and get another, have them measure the resistance. Accel might have a problem here.

Hitching a ride. I am fixin to do the same swap.

Skip, Explian the location of the "bango bolt and the copper washers". I am not all that familliar with this engines. So, you are saying that a pump reseal should do the trick? I allready replaced the o-ring and the mickey mouse gasket, but I did not replace the seal on the shaft. I didn't know about it. That will be done on this job. I don't want to put the blame on the oil pump because the lfter noise is only real bad on the drivers side. What is your thoughts? It could possibly not be the little o-ring under the cam basket? I will take any info on this issue. My time for getting this thing road worthy is running really short.

mdjdc, This engine only has 102,200 miles on the clock, but yes I am considering replacing the pump. Only one lifter on one side ticks really loud and the rest on that side tick but not as loud. The other side is quit. The seams of the cam basket and head are wet from oil. I figure that the little o-rings are on there way out. I understand what you mean about being a hard head and the idea of listening. I am right there beside ya. Thanks

I am making the attempt right now. Mine is ticking VERY loud. Sounds to be only one, if you will, lifter on one side. I figure while I am in there a might as well take them apart. Can I leave the disty attached to the cam basket. That thing does not want to come out. I am thinking I should just remove every hose around it and bring them both out a one.

I already did the oil pump rebuild. There was only two seals I found. An o-ring and a mickey mouse shaped one. Is that right? I have great oil pressure. The oil pump looked in pretty good shape. Man, I was just all in the last weekend. I guess I should had asked some questions about this issue then. Oh-well, here we go again. Thanks again

Erik, I read this article earlier, infact I made a copy of it. Can the o-rings be (easily?) replaced while the engine is in the car? I have never been under the valve covers on this type of engine. I also considered trying a different oil weight, but I almost think that would be a wast. It sounds to be only one lash adjuster that is doing it, or at least only the one side of the engine is doing it. Making me point at these o-rings. Thanks, Greg

I have the same problem. It just started last week. I replaced the oil pump seals and it is still is making noise. It doesn't do it when it sits overnight, but it starts when I have drivin it for around 15 miles. It gets really loud and quitens down then gets loaud again. I am running 10w-30 castrol w/ a quart of hy-per lube. It has plenty of oil pressure, never goes under 40lbs idling and up to 85lbs on the highway. So I ask, what am I to do next? I was going to start new thread on this because I am not finding the right info I need. I saw this one and thought I would hitch a ride. Hopefully this is cool. Thanks

PM'ed ya

I will have two extra sets of blue Taylor 8MM universal 4 cyl wire sets this week. I found a deal on three new sets last week. Should be here by early next week. I will only need one set. Interested?

HHHmmmm. Do you think I will be able to walk out of the parts store without being laught at for asking if they carry wiper snuggies? :D :D No, just kidding. I will check into that. I tried binding the arms the other day and it didn't help any.

That was my next move. It likes to rain in Washington. More like drizzle. Thanks

My windshield wipers skip and squeek across the windshield. Its driving me nuts. I have tried new wipers and cleaned the windshied and they still are doing the same thing. Anyone got a fix for this. Thanks

I am not sure of the exact procedure, but if it is bad it will have to have a helicoil installed. That will probably involve the head to be taken off.

Thanks

Quik question. What is the horse power and torque in an ea82? Thanks

I found an 86 with a touch over 100,000 miles for $400. It has electric everything except no sun roof. Runs really good besides the weak brake pedal. I just need to find the time to work on it. I will bring it by one day soon and check out the hyper active Brat you have. I have been reading your thread about it.

I will check into one of them vac system. My buddy down the street might have one. I have bled many brake systems by using the fliud in a jar way. Never used a vac system before. I am still pointing my finger at the M.C. I will spend some more time on it today.

I have never heard of bleeding them in an X pattern. Front pass, back driver, front driver, back pass." I have always bleed from furthest away to closed to M.C. I will try the X pattern. I do bleed by myself. I fill a jar with fluid, run a vac line from the bleeder valve into the jar, then I pump the peddle till I see clear fluid come out the hose. I also check the M.C. while doing this process to make sure it is full of fluid. The engine stayed at the same idle when I pressed the peddle, so I am thinking the booster is OK (no vac leaks). The callapers, ???????? They cleaned up nice, but I did take them apart. Thanks for responing

I just put on new pads on all four corners and bled the lines. The peddle was mushy before, so thought changing the pads and bleeding would fix the problem. The peddle in still very soft. It almost goes to the floor when pressed firmly. The car stops, but not like I would think it should. Brakes will not lock up. I have lots of ebrake. Hillstopper works great. I am thinking the M.C. it bad. Anything else it might be. Thanks

Should I run 8mm or 7mm wires with the Accel Super Stock coil?

Alright another Jeep (Heep) dude. These guys are great. They helped me out a lot.

The carb boiling over is a thought I have. When it does finally start up, it acts as if it is flooded. I am thinking the plugs might have fouled. I just changed them, but funds are tight so I used autolights. I should be ashamed. I don't even step that low with my Ford. I haven’t seen black smoke, when this happened it was already getting dark outside. The engine itself runs great and stays plenty cool. I haven’t got to spend much time with this issue yet, but my guess is that the plugs are bad. Any other suggestions on other things I need to check, I am all ears.

I haven't started working on this issue yet, but thought I would post it and see if could get some ideas on what it could be. 86, 1800cc, carbed, 100,000 miles, recent tune (plugs, cap, rotor). It starts right up when cold, but has a hard time starting when warm after sitting for around 5 minutes. If I restart it right up after I shut it off (while warm) it will start right up. Any ideas to help me shorten my search?