TYLER R

Same here in WA as well. I think it is actually some sort of law too... We were going to drop a 427 from a 60's era vette into a 80's camaro until we figured out we couldnt get it titled if we did that. No idea what ever became of that project....

Ouch!! She looks like one of them Toledo girls!!! I cant talk... I was born in Morton... I got out when I was three though. Went through six sets of wheels for my baby walker to do it though.

Alright, so with a new clutch, and head gaskets, it is like a new car. I am going to give this one another final shot. If it fails me, I will never go to Subaru again. So Matt, are you saying that even after a machine job since they were warped, that I am going to have this problem again?? Should I get rid of the car now while it has that great new clutch feel???? The shop I took it to did the torque right, Dan talked me through a process that sounded similar to open heart surgery... He assured me no need for retorque and that it should be a rock solid car for 200k+ miles.... Told him not to jinx it....

So a couple questions... Just checking to see if I need to have the heads retorqued after x amount of miles?? Also... We are taking a trip out to Idaho at the end of may, is that enough time if something were to go wrong from the install it would before then? My wife drives it about 45 miles everyday, and then the trip around town every once n a while. But Idaho will be about a 750 mile round trip for us. Dont want something to go wrong out in the middle of say, Starbuck, Wa... Not alot out that way...

Whats her number?? ;-)

So just a quick update on this... So they put the new tstat in it, took it for a drive the next day.. blamo!! starts overheating again! They gimp it back to the shop, get out the hydrocarbon tests again, and sure 'nough'... Headgaskets gone again... He is thinking the reason it didnt show up the first time is that the stop leak that the other owners put in was kinda working. They are also going to do a clutch for me as well. The old one did not look like it had only been in for a year and a half... If it had been, they really didnt know how to drive it. Also, the guy at the machine shop said the heads had no signs of ever being machined before, were within tolerance, but warped pretty good.... So we are thinking if they actually did have the gasket changed, they put the original designed one in, and didnt have the heads smoothed out.... You just cant trust anybody these days... They had all the papers saying it was done... Who screwed who??? Did the old guy before me get screwed and he didnt know, put stop leak in and its somebody else's problem. Or did he have some fake papers done up making it look like a legit shop did the work and then pass it off on me....

I dont remember word for word what they said in the article, but it was something along the lines of it is a leaner, cooler burning fuel, so thats why you have to step the injectors up if you run it, to get more of the juice for the fire. http://www.sportscarmag-digital.com/sportscar/201305#pg42 Thats the link for the article.

Ohh yeah! No, sorry, I had ran the coolant in it before I started having the over heating issues. I switched it to just water when it was doing the overheating thing and I was draining it out every other day trying to flush crap out of it. Yes, lol, once I know it is running fine and I wont be draining the cooling system every 48 hours, I will run the coolant. Errgg, yeah, its got the lube, and the antifreezing goodies in it. I will always keep it in a car when I am driving it normaly and not draining the stuff.

I wouldnt risk it. The seals and hoses while rated to run some ethanol, were not rated to run at that concentration of it. You might have problems of your car running too lean as well. When you do an e85 conversion, you normaly want to put in bigger injectors to get more fuel in. Dont know how many people get the SCCA fish wrapper, 'Sports Car', but they ran an article in the newest one on this very topic.

Used fram when I had a muscle car. Never had any problems. I ran the basic one with the black grippy stuff at the bottom. I remember the first few times I had that car I ran the PureOnes with out the grip stuff. Those filters were crap! I had one where the innards were cracked in one spot. Car always ran fine, but that was the last straw... Others had the gaskets not seal right, and my oil pressure light would come on... Yeah, now its the wix for me. Seem pretty good so far!

Alright so the new tstat is on its way to my friend. Everything checked out good once again, so its just gonna be a new tstat and keeping the fingers crossed. I had been running just water, and he said when they drained it out, it looked fine.

Honestley, I never got it up to the 3/4 mark. After it started moving up I would shut the car off and just coast it. I just didnt want to do any more damage to it than has already been done. All the years running the el' cheapo parts store ones in my old Chevy Nova, I never had a bad one either.... I would figure since I shelled out the $35 for a Subaru one, it would of told me the minute I opened the box... Think the cans of 'Napa know how' but with a slight asian accent since it is Subaru... 'Do not stick me in the car.... For I am bad mechanic san...'

I never really heated it up too bad. Once the needle started to move off of the normal spot, I would shut the car off and just coast for a while. I was the original purchaser of the sticky one. I talked to one of the guys at the stealership near here. He just said I need to bring in the original invoice with the miles and it wont be a problem.

Alright, so I just got the car to the shop yesterday night. I just got a call saying the tstat was sticking... It was a brand new Genuine Subaru thermostat!! Grrrrrrr.... I am going to wait for my friend to get back to the shop Monday and have them do a flush before filling it with fluid and maybe another new tstat from Subaru. Do you guys think that Subaru will take back the bad one and give me my money back? Its kinda hard for me to exchange it, since the car is about 50 miles away right now. I was just going to have the shop buy the new one, and I would take the old one back and get a cash refund on it. Also, once it has new coolant, I am going to have him drive it around for about a week, just to make sure that this is the problem. I am dying from paying a friend gas money to tow it for me.

Yeah, its a 99. The guy I bought it from had papers on the hg getting changed less 40k miles before I bought it. So yeah, there might be something else going on that might really warent a motor change. So my friend is going to do the hg job for about $1000. What does it normaly run for the 2.2 swap from start to finish roughly? I am going to do some digging on the threads I have found so far. It seems like a pretty easy swap from what I have read so far.

Yeah, I paid $3800 for the car, which is a good deal around here, but not so good you are wondering what is wrong with it. It has some minor paint scuffs from where his bike pedals would rub on the back bumper and a couple of minor dents here and there. Nothing too bad for a 14 yo car, but it made the price fair if it was a good running car. It had been on cl for 5 minutes before I had called. I was on my way out to look at a forester when I seen it come up. Forester needed some front end work, but the guy was honest about it.... Kinda wished I went with that one now...

Yeah bratman, I sent the guy a text. Nothing bad, just 'looks like you sold me that subaru just in time. I think the headgaskets went again.' Never got a response, he knows what he did if he did anything.... It is a good looking car and runs good other than the overheating issue, like I said... Young family without a spare $900+ its going to cost for the hg job. If I had it when I was younger, and no kid, STi swap wouldnt of been a thought, I would of just done it...

My mechanic/friend checked that the last time I had it to him when it overheated the first time and it passed. We drove it home 40 miles just fine, then I flushed out the cooling system and it got worse. We think I might of scratched the scab off of a festering wound when I did that though... The guy I bought it from must of been running some stop leak crap or something. Freakin awesome... Some people just dont have values... Why would you sell some body a car like that and not tell them.... He will have to live with it. He knew I was a young family... saw my young son when we did the paperwork. Shoot, maybe it wasnt doing it when they had it... All I did was put maybe 200 miles on it from when I bought it to when it overheated the first time. What do you think?

Welp, the car still overheated after a dozen times burping it, new genuine urabus tstat, coolant, radiator cap, and bleeder screw. I went about 4 miles up the freeway, pulled over to check it out. I noticed the filler jug was getting full, so I turned it around and went back home. Another mile and the needle started moving up. I was going down hill, so I turned the car off, then back on so I could steer and coasted a couple miles and the needle had dropped back to normal. I got home just as it started moving north again. So now, the symptoms are... Fills the overflow jug with no bubbles, temp gauge goes up, I loose a little bit of heat, but not all the way (maybe 15 deg. cooler then when it is normal).... I am thinking the worst, but does anybody have any good news for me or should I just start getting the stuff together to do an STi motor swap? I have a connection for one of those motors for $2000...

Really, wow did I get lucky.... I figured the dealer would charge like $3 for it and $2.95 for the gasket... i will go check out the local hardware store and see what I can find.

Alright... does anybody know the part number for the little bleeder screw thing?? As many times as I screwed with it, I loose it on the last time....

Any you recomend? It is like 14 psi if I remember right??

Alright, I think (hope) I have my problems figured out... Before I go and blow $9.63 for a standard parts store radiator cap to seal the deal, is that ok?? Do I need to run the OEM one? All I have seen when I searched was it doesnt hurt one way or the other, but I do suck using the 'search' functions on forums...

Nice save!!!

Sounds rough man. Pretty much the same thing I am thinking I am going through. Bought the car for a fair price, but a decent deal. Had the records of the HG getting changed less then 30k miles before, so I figured I was in the clear. Ran great, pulled hard. Threw my family in it and went to the beach and it overheated when we got back in town thank god.... I am trying to go through it and see if it is anything easy before I take it in for another hg fix... If it is something super major, I have a friend with an STi motor and running gear we might swap into it.