Humble Nuto 53

first noticed on passenger side, but after extensive screwing around with the toe, and getting it to drive straight with no pull, both tyres are showing the wear.... i have an ea81 with simular adjustible struts, cranked to top of adjustment... no camber issues, no uneven wear... ive been doing mickey mouse alignments on most of my cars last 27 years... this one has me stumped (hate to ask for directions ya know LOL) and now that im employed again, i guess i can squander the money on an alignment and new rubbers

thats cheating

played with toes all winter, out in and in between, i dont have a pull to either side. certain its camber, can see em top out at rest

have a 3dr cpe 1986 d/r 5spd with the adjustable front struts. the adjustment is at its lowest setting, and im getting severe wear on the outside of the tyres. the struts appear to be stock, and i see no spacer inserted at the top. in theory, even if the previous owner had the springs stretched there should be no way to increase the distance between spring perches. there appears to be no adjustment at the point where the control arm meets the main member, and as we all know theres no camber adjustment provided where the strut meets the knuckle (rrrrrrrr). so what is the mystery issue? thx (wish i had saved a pair of non adjustable strut assy's, just to try em)

forgot to add this url... www.jagsthatrun.com

had a '74 and an '80 xj6, gave em both away.... british stuff

yeah, smack it good, not tap tap tap... use a block of wood to protect the threads...... installation sometimes requires a bit of fooling around.... frequently ya have to use the nut to pull the axel into the bearings. then once you have enough thread showing you can stick the conical washer back on and really tighten that nut... iirc its 145 foot pounds.... but you can go about as tight as you can get it. doubtful you would strip the nut or the axel...

you're never quite sure, until its too late.... gotta install it to test it....

tore apart an ea81 seat and the headrests are welded to the seat back, sans adjustment

usually caused by warped rotor.... you can probably see the warp with the tyre off, turn it by hand and watch the runout at the caliper i prefer to replace rotors rather than have them turned, but usually i just wire brush the rotors. use the grinder with a stiff wire brush to take the shine off both sides, before you put new pads in.... new pads on old polished rotor usually results in squeaky brakes....

try ebay or local bicycle stores

hmmm, how about.... front diff hanger bolt being loose? probably would hear that when you put power to it though i made a trailer hitch, and the muffler bangs against that under hard shifting, but thats an unmistakable sound.

i used to travel boston and santa barbara for business, but i was just stunned how hostile philly/jersey was when i was there last summer. been a long time since i was out there, but it was just amazing. i saw 3 phyical conflicts in the philly airport, was attacked by my cab driver armed with a shoe, ( i had maps, but somehow he took me 60 miles the wrong direction while i attempted to correct him) and wasnt impressed with the people i was there to deal with... i think they put gunpowder in the water or something...

yeah there's an oval inspection window the caliper comes off (oh baby) via two 17 or 15 mm bolts on the engine side of the caliper, kinda tucked in there

52k is approaching recommened replacement. many have gone much farther with no problem. when the timing belt breaks, its usually at the worst time, then youre in for a tow in addition to the replacement. not hard to replace the belts yourself. pull the clutch fan, drain and pull the radiator, pop the belt covers off, release the tensioners, replace belts... really the only thing you can do wrong is mis-align the timing marks, but if you dont move anything when you take em apart.....all is well if youre really new to auto mechanics, it might take you four hours or so.....

take em off the car, give em a good swash in windshield washer slosher... i poured a few glugs in there and gave it a great shake, the drained it and put about a pint in there and turned it round till i found the gap, it was on the top. maybe the sun dried it up, dunno fer sher you will probably find the gap in the glue along the edge, where the lense meets the reflector.... i topped that off with a schmear of 3M windshield sealer, cause it was close at hand

if the driveshaft from trans to rear end is still in, you can ram one of those tire irons into the ujoint and it will lever against the body of the car..... stick a tyre on it and have someone hold a bar in the rim holes use a pipe wrench on the axel itself, underneath, while someone else jumps on the axel nut

vacuum leaks are bad, but it sounds like you have a fuel filter clog... theres one by the fuel pump, by the right rear wheel... and theres a vapor seperator up by the windshield wiper motor.. shouldnt be more than six bux each, but as a test you could put a piece of metal tubing in place, to see if that fixes it

if you really wanna get technical you need a shop with a CO (carbon monoxide) meter to set your mixture. its the "proper" way to get it right. might be bad ignition components, cap/rotor/coil/coil to dist cable... but if the car runs fine, other than carbon on the plugs, might just be the 8 kajillion miles on the motor. burning a bit of oil..... what are ya gonna do? i used to like to run bosch platinum plugs on the saabs when they started passing oil up the rings and blackening the plugs, seems they run hotter without passing that heat on to the pistons.. sure dont want to go too far up the heat range iirc two steps up is max havent toyed with that on the subarus... i've just been running stock listed ngk's.

i paid 45 for inners and 44 for outers, each piece, same price for ea81 and ea82

if you had to jump the fuel pump, perhaps you have to jump the coil to + also... no power to ignition and no spark... shot in the dark of course

yeah, axle nut possibly. sometimes if your wheel bearing isnt tight enough, the brake rotor can move a bit in the caliper and rub the pads, making some odd sounds. could be the bearing itself too... just a guess

less than a quart, no bleeding needed

if you jack and block the front end, can you feel any grinding/binding when turning the wheels by hand? is there any silvery dust accumulating on either end of the drive axels? can you feel it vibrate in the steering wheel when it makes that noise? maybe its an exhaust leak at the doughnut joint? is there any fluid in the transmission? doesnt seem like the clutch slipping would make a sound like that and not be either obviously slipping or stinking horribly. still could be a wheel bearing, but without going nuts and starting to replace stuff, i guess you might have to run it a bit longer till it exposes itself

the first thing to do when you get a car is install twin relays, one for starter, one for coil... wish i could tell you how clever the switches are (stimpyOHJOY.wav) badguys and siblings, they are all the same. now sporting motion detectors and silent alarms, courtesy axeman and goodwill, and radio shak. radio shak sells a tunable tiny FM transmitter for 12.00 some assy req'd, can also be found at any online electronics retailer. also available is software to turn your car mounted PC into a motion and sound detector. most have mic built in and webcams have never been cheaper. home watcher is one title. cheap wireless card links with pc in garage which is hardwired to the house, you can put at least 150 feet of wire between your pc and your USB camera.... black and white cameras are IR sensitive, IR LED's are cheap..... see it all in the dark, before they even get in. raccoons, cats, dogs, anything can set it off, so its nice to have the pc pop up with an image so you can decide if you just want to send the dogs out, or go berserk. been playing with a few approaches, depends on what you like i guess