Humble Nuto 53

wheel bearing would usually always make that noise, so im gonna guess the outboard spindle is stripping in the hub.... try really really tightening the axel nut, if that solves the problem, take it apart and see if the splines are worn on the axel or the hub.... cv joint itself makes a distinct click noise wheelbearings usually a low rumble have heard of a few subes stripping out the splines and this might be the sound youre hearing.. maybe

looks like the one on my 86 3door, but also same as both ea82 wagons 88+89 ive had

find someone who's good with a torch. uncle jeffy once used a cutting head to remove my broken water pump bolt from the block, and i didnt even have to chase the thread afterward. i was amazed. and probably lucky too.... (68 new yorker, so it had a cast iron block, but still) might consider replacing the front seal after this too....

wasnt carb gasket, it was the hose on the drivers side of engine, behind the power steering pump, 1/4 ID going from carb base to heater tube... 94 cent fix just cant trust those shade tree mechanics, even if they are us

single port fuel injection manifold (spfi late 87-94 or so) will bolt on to your ea81. wiring is another issue. a few guys here have done it

vacuum leak, cant have any of those or you will have described problems

i just discovered a leak in my carbed ea82, the carb base gasket(s). thought it was the tiny rubber tube from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold, then maybe the passenger side intake manifold to head gasket, then the radiator cap, then the waterpump. nope. base gasket. going to price em now, might end up makin em. went to car wash hosed the whole thing down with engine warm (not hot) left the motor nice and clean and dry, saw the ooze between the gaskets gotcha now leaker!

www.upullrparts.com nine bux for used around 80.00 for reman minnesota

you could simply put a switch between your coil and power, or between starter and power...

have any brown foam/scum on your oil cap? maybe the thermostat has decided to be uncooperative

or adjust the door within the frame, then adjust the glass in the door

dig around in the yella pages for a bearing supplier... usually they carry seals too, if you can get a number off the old one it will make your search much easier

maybe they think you have more than one, of eh something

also have hill holder cable bracket off same tranny, also, if you wannit, also

wow, i LIED! doesnt look stainess to me i have one here from a pb 5 spd, if you want it send addy......

its just a strap of stainless, two or three layers thick... eyeball it (dont wait for me, but i will see if i have one left, just scrapped most of my sube inventory)

arch is right... 88 wagon towed 88 hatchback from newlondon, wisc to stainpaul, mn of course i didnt hit the road till after one am (less traffic) had been awake roughly 20 hours when i left.... there is certainly a lack of power but i did manage to stay ahead of the diesel trucks on the uphills flooring it bear in mind a few things: ive been wrenching (and wretching) for over 30 years.... towed hundreds on the tow truck, tow dolly and the miserable tow-bar.. (try pulling a f-250 with a 78 rabbit hahahahahah talk about back seat driver) make sure your tyres are up to pressure, specially in the rear, maybe over 5 pounds..... anything you tow will tend to push your rear end out in corners, can get spooky, and could get you deep in trouble. truckers call it "jackknife".... only way out is power, and in a sube, at speed, well... be prepared brake waaaay early, give your brakes a chance.... nothing worse than feeling that pedal scootch to the floor during a panic stop (the brakes get so hot that the brake fluid actually boils in the caliper, steam is compressible) you HAVE to get some kind of tail lights on the tow vehicle, strap down type, magnets dont work, period. need brake lights/turn signals back there. even if you have em on your tow dolly, its amazing how many people tailgate a trailer or towed vehicle.... disregarding a 2'x4' sign saying VEHICLE IN TOW on the back if youre not really really confident in your tool box, your greasy skills, and your tow vehicle find help. nothing worse than being screwed on the road, the "authorities" arent there to help you, they are there to keep you from messing OTHER people's day (another partially useful .02 from the bottom of the barrel)

Lincolin Mark VIIXLIVIIXIL hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaaa *cough cough* hahahahah once upon a time i had a Dodge Colt Vista Wagon imported by Mitsubishi, for Dodge who comes up with this stuff?

valiant, baaaah! parts store, ask for VW cv grease.... grey graphite grease, six bux i use it for nearly everything

ooh, air bumper, great idea! maybe if you put a backing plate inside the rear, and bolt the stock tie downs to that? what offroad parks did you find around here?

i'd say wheelbearing also, if sloppy it can allow enough play, that, the brake rotor vibrates against the pad when the wheel is angled during a turn... i just heard that noise on my ea81 hatch, later will investigate further

they cannot verify quality of weld in-situ, bolts can be readily identified.... screwy world (sorry about that) what offroad parks did you find around here?

clack is a CV joint (its part of the drive train) ball joints will rattle on bumps, or loose steering

cars and hidden gremlins..... ea82 has timing belts, pretty easy to replace, really should do it on a car thats new to you....unless he has papers showing recent replacement the timing belt tensioner pulleys have a bearing in em, thats the first thing that broke on a sube for me, no test until you get in there. they shouldnt have slop, and certainly shouldnt sound dry.... turbo? i hate em, but lots of people run em with no trouble.. the bearings go out on em.. no test that i know of axels, ball joints, tie rod ends, even the steering rack are cheap and easy to replace so dont worry too much about that its the lifters (tick tick tick) and the headgasket/head crack that really put the shivvers in whats left of my spine... tick tick tick can be intermittant, and i havent heard any conclusive cure, short of really laying out the chips and replacing em head gasket can be partially diagnosed by looking at the underside of the oil filler cap, for light or dark brown foam... means oil and water are getting it on, and thats bad... also check the antifreeze when its cool, if it isnt clean and green, problems.... those are just a few of the obvious ones off top of head maybe you can get someone more experienced to go with you, but there is no guarantee even then... roll the dice, buy the car, and a basic tool set. these arent the give-to-your-mother-in-another-state cars, they are more tinker-mobiles that are incredibly easy to fix. and ea82's are still common enough that you can find entire parts cars for peanuts. no shortage of experiment/repair documentation here either

i have one off a ea82 wagon, no idea if it will fit.... they are aluminum or rubber, and flexible, as long as you dont collapse the inner diameter by bending too tight... lemme know.... minnesota