Virrdog

Ok, I am in the middle of my first EA82 front brake job. I have one side apart, when I get home tonight I'm sliding all the new stuff on. Quick questions: What do I need to lube up before I put this all back together? Should I pack some grease into the bearings? Use loctite on any of the bolts? I'll regrease the sliders on the caliper, should I put some on the backs of the pads and sliding points on the bracket? Thanks. I'll probably take enough pictures doing the other side to make a how-to...

Glasspacks are by no means excessively loud with a completely stock exhaust system in front of it.

What did you end up getting?

We got an ice-storm over night. Of course I pulled out the Legacy with the studs on it, this is when they have 8x the grip as a normal tire. My wife didn't appreciate the ice shredding donuts by the post office as much as I did though. You could tell how much boost was pumping by the sound of the studs spinning.

Legacy Turbo + Studded snow tires + 18" of snow = Fun! With tires like that on the car I can go places I normally would save for the '89 GL 4x4 Wagon.

Good cars, I picked one up a couple of months ago. Great gas mileage on the FWD ones. Can't see it being worth more than $1000 with an interior that needs cleaned, though.

You might want to add valve cover gaskets to every engine type. Don't forget the EJ22T. It is known to have its piston oil squirters to come loose or fall out. Isn't really a disaster, but something to watch out for during a rebuild. Other than that, I would say most reliable known Subie engine?? The HD version of the phase I EJ22. (Yes, I'm a little biased )

Going in a straight line is important to getting the car out of 4wd also.

Open heater box, remove squirrel, close heater box. Turn on non-smelly heat.

Probably bragging to her friends about her scary story... Sliding completely sideways with wheels stopped is past driver skill no matter who you are.

I think you would love an EJ18 if you ever owned one. I would like put one in my '89 GL Wagon (in my own little wishful wonderland). And I can personally testify that the EJ22T is one HECK of an engine. I love that thing, 193k miles and running like a top in my Sport Sedan.

Interestingly in Ohio they want the title if they are going to take a whole car (in interest of non-stoledness). But all you have to do is something like put the engine in the backseat to make it a 'non-whole' car. It'd be nice if States were more consistent so there wasn't an easy way to "wash" a title clean across state borders and scam someone.

Heh, me and the wife have slept in the '89 GL just fine.

I have a '93 Impreza with no sunroof that does the same thing. Puddle on the rear driver side floor and some moisture by the trunk/gas release. It happens in a long hard rain WITHOUT driving it. I'll have to bunker up in the car in the middle of a downpour to see if I can see the stream coming in. And there is sloshing and a pouring water sound when you first drive the car after a long drenching... like its pooling on top of the heater box or something. There is rust around the windshield area, but that does not explain the puddle in the back. What is the procedure for "tightening" the windows?

One of the things I've always planned on trying in a car...

You know you WERE airborne... when all 4 tires chirp even if the cd player didn't skip. Man, I miss my brat.

I found that I would not see any black until I had sipped down a significant amount of water.

If you have gorilla paws, that might explain the accidental flicking of the high beams with the turn signal. Try hitting your turn signals very gingerly and see if it always hits the high beams.

Coolant Temp Sensor?

Where exactly is the gas tank sitting? That's the only thing I see that might not fit. Maybe go with a fuel cell in the bed, directly over the rear axle.

So you are going on your own singular, personal experience with a non-Subaru car to make a blanket statement about all Subarus... There are many, many, many an auto-x'er here in Ohio that run over 1 degree of camber up to 2 above up front on the car they drive everyday and there is not exceptional wear with just camber. Toe on the other hand will eat a tire alive. How do you know you did not have any toe on your auto-x car? (Just so we know its not you guessing ) The overwhelming evidence says that camber will not eat up a tire on a Subaru. People that have a bad experience with one set of tires or don't realize adding camber also changes the toe do not nullify the truthfullness of the statement. Me personally, I chew tires up when I don't have enough camber.

Who said anything about making more power? He stated that the filter would not hinder the flow because its rated to flow enough. I second the "I thought it was not for fuel injection" worry...

Did you miss my first post?? I don't remember saying anything about my driving skills, so how is that an e-match? I know the answer to your question. I'm trying to tell you and you don't like all of it. Get all your struts/springs the same (and made for a wagon). Get some beefier swaybars and endlinks, you might need to get the heavy duty brackets for the rear sway so you don't snap the stock ones. Whiteline should have most everything you need from the springs to the sways. And learn to drive correctly and that will handle your tendency to understeer really bad... as I mentioned before body roll is not directly related to understeering. Please point out where I am being deconstructive.

Road rally's make you an expert driver now-a-days? :confused: And going into a curve at a certain speed doesn't really say a whole lot. You could have been doing 50 coming out of the curve on the correct line (auto or 5spd). And you would have been on your side of the road, which generally is a good thing.

Yes, yes, yes, yes!! I would recommend getting the same springs/struts all the way around. That can severly screw with any suspension tuning you try to do. What STi struts were not inverted? And there are swaybars that will fit your car from Whiteline. I would recommend doing the front first. It helps the most with roll. Endlinks make a BIG difference. The stock plastic ones (if you have the plastic c-links) stretch quite a bit. Anything that stretches before the swaybar can act will lessen its action. And not over-driving can help prevent understeering across 2 lanes. Body roll has almost nothing to do with understeer. Learn how racing lines work, hitting your apexes and slow in - fast out. That will do a lot more good than some more suspension tuning when the nut behind the wheel needs adjustment.