Virrdog

And make sure its all the way to the line, my Subarus have done this on many occasions. Just a little bit below the line and the light goes off on cold days.

You are thinking way too much. :-\

There is very little to worry about, you will not hydrolock your engine. You'd have to use a garden hose down your throttle body to do that. Putting the seafoam in different places does different things. Putting it in your gas tank will help with any moisture and help clean out things like your injectors. Running it through your intake manifold will help clean out the carbon deposits inside your combustion chamber. Run a hose from the fitting on top of your throttle body (if you have one?) and stick the other side into the bottle when you have the engine revved up. You can get a helper or get a hose long enough to run back into the car. Get the car to about 3k rpms and insert the tube and try to maintain that engine speed, you'll need to use the throttle quite a bit. Once you get through half the bottle or so shut off the engine. Wait a minute or two and start it back up. It will smoke and might bog a little, but keep it running and go drive it hard. Then you're ready for the next car. Or you can put the rest of the bottle in the gas tank. This is how I have done it many, many times. Haven't blown anything up, yet... I think.

I've done 80 on an unplowed highway in my old Brat. The engine note changes when you have it in 4wd and I didn't notice my speedo was nearly pegged.

In Ohio they don't have 4wd dynos so anything AWD gets the idle test. Any Subaru's get a giant question mark on the screen with a check the car warning, I tell them the car cannot go on the rollers. Idle tests for me. Too bad cars without any cats can pass an idle test... But before I knew to do that, my Brat with a glasspack was fun. It was making the glass in the whole place reveberate. 4 speeds for-the-win, rev it high cuz the next gear is too long for that speed.

I gutted the compressor so I didn't have to make a bracket on my last wagon. Lots of bearings and stuff in there.

Don't forget your [sarcasm] [/sarcasm] tags or someone might think your serious.

If you don't mind me asking, what is your point in installing the amp? There is very little benefit to amping the rear speakers with the fronts still on HU power. The rear speakers will play loud and clear but also destroy the soundstage in the front where you will be (not to mention the fronts will sound muddy and weak in comparison). Personally I would amp all 4 speakers, amp just the fronts, or just forget doing the all the work of installing an amp. If you amp just the fronts, you can either run them bridged (if the amp is bridgeable) or add a subwoofer on the rear channels later if you want. Sorry if I sound rude. But it took a me a long time going the hard way to finally hear what a car sound system should start to sound like in my car. I don't want to see you go the opposite way starting out.

Well if you mosy on over to the Bridgestone website you'll find the RE910 under the Performance section where it says... NOT a snow tire. That would explain the loosey goosey grip.

There typically is not a problem with decreasing the resistance of your grounds as long as you add on. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1118392 Good info on Subaru's in general. The biggest difference has been said to be the battery-->chassis connection. Some 8 gauge or 4 gauge wire run there will help all that current to flow from your battery. The other ones will help the alternator current flow in and out of the battery and also into the chassis.

That would be awesome, Josh. I don't know if the wife would care for a STi tranny mount.

If it is the same gauge as the other wire, definitely only use it tandem with the OEM one. Aluminum has a higher resistance than copper. And don't mount copper and aluminum together or they will react.

Bleed the brakes anyways. But they are probably fine. Do they actually take a while to stop, as in the tires won't lock up... or do you just not like the feel of the pedal? There are many things that can be done to change the feel.

I have a 1993 Impreza FWD that is making some funny noises at high speeds in 5th gear, it goes away by putting forward pressure on the shifter. So it seems it may just be touching something that makes it buzz. I know how much the tranny mount made a difference in my Legacy so I would like to look into replacing this one, also. Does the FWD Impreza have the same transmission mount as the AWD BC/GC cars? I took a look and they seem to be similar.

Is there a thread with the part numbers posted? I have searched and did not find any. I don't trust the Subaru dealership to find the right part numbers since they have only been dealing in them since 2004. They don't know what a GL is... So you run the bead on the valve cover and then put the gasket on? Like I said - 8,000 questions... :-\

No more than $600 or so if it is VERY clean underneath. But probably not that much if the some of the gears grind all the time.

My amps have not complained so far in the storage bin in the back. One 4 channel and another for the subs. A lot depends on how tolerant the amp is of heat. If I run into a problem I will get a PC fan powered back there to circulate the hot air. I usually have my A/C running if it gets real hot outside, I don't know if that makes a difference or not (I know the tinted windows do).

Water injection is alive and well. It is not a fuel, though, and is not used as such. It does not make more power. It allows you to run even more advanced timing and more compression without detonation because it stabilizes the explosion and cools down the cylinder. Its the extra timing, etc. that gets more power. Most of the super high-powered turbo Subaru's running around have water or meth injection.

Try swapping wires and see if the dead cylinder travels with it.

Sorry, yeah its an EA82. So you run rtv all around the rubber cord and let it dry? Where did you get your bolt rubber washers? TIA, I'm just full of questions today.

Going in for my first valve cover job also and got the dealer parts with numbers I found on here. My gaskets are definitely not cork. They are rubber stringy things that have folded all over in the bag. I do have the right thing, right? And should I still do the RTV trick on these rubber ones?

Wow, good to know. Hmmph, Subaru actually changed something... I'm pretty sure its the same PCV valve for all Subarus up to this change.

Should be on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Very close to the throttle body. Should see a nice fat hose going onto a piece with threads sticking out of the intake manifold. They are kind of hard to spot for the first time, look for the fat hose.

First thing you need to do is pull those fuses back out and see if they are blown or still good. Knowing whether you are blowing the fuses or not is kind of important. And check RadioShack for cheap digital multimeters, they have some good deals, one with auto-range would be your best bet. I don't know how I functioned without one!

I'm pretty sure that'll buff out.