Virrdog

This is what I did, no need to regulate it there, the smallish hose is enough. Make sure you suck down enough water. Too little water does just about nothing. When I did it, after enough water went through the car started belching carbon out the exhaust... a couple of days later there was a large ellipsoid shape of dead grass on the other side of the chain link fence.

Therefore it may have been tire issues, not AWD. You have not eliminated that variable. Getting the transmission "fixed" because the car got stuck one time in snow with summer tires sounds silly to me... :-\

This IS the problem. No need to bother reading all the AWD system babble. If he has problems on dry pavement start looking at the transmission. :cool:

Holy crap those are some sweet wheels.

Piece of carpet to lay on and definitely put a board under the jack so gravel does not get jammed into the mechanical stuff.

Very true. Less overall weight first of all, and less spinny stuff that robs horsepower along with less friction.

Nearly 70 degrees here in Northeast Ohio and not complainin'. Getting tons of stuff done outdoors. We'll get the white powdery stuff soon enough.

You already have a spinning driveshaft and rear differential and 2 extra half-shafts. Not transmitting power to them means they are being dragged around. Its more effiecient to just send the power equally to all of the tires since the hardware is in place.

Yeah, my wife's Impreza is FWD. The GL is FWD also, but dragging around a spinning drive shaft and differential.

Haha, I was looking at this just yesterday! I want a tighter seal on the oil dip-stick. Is there a standard o-ring you can get at a store or something you can order from Subaru? And I got my oil cap to go on incredibly tight by adjusting the tabs, it still loosens up at the very last point of turning... So I back it off a little bit still.

Going WOT at low engine revs is not as horrible as you think it would be. The pumping losses for the engine are at a minimum and there is very little air flow under 2500 rpm or so. So less pumping losses and very little air (aka very little fuel) would be your friend in this case. That all goes out the window if you have a turbo, though. And I don't see how the act of going WOT would "hurt" the engine. The only things related to that would be over-revving the engine at the wrong time (ex: cold, low oil). The actual cause of hurt to the engine is usually something else like a problem with the oil, not the actual go pedal.

They seem to be built like tanks. The power is less, but the gas mileage is much much more. Very reliable and non-inteference. I have an EA82 wagon and a EJ18 Impreza in the driveway and its interesting driving the two. Never raced them side by side, but you can tell the EJ18 is much more responsive to the gas pedal (MPFI) and is a little quicker... but it definitely FEELS quite a bit quicker. So for power EJ18 > EA82 > EA81. I'll have to pull all of the sound system stuff out of the wagon one day and give the two a go. Maybe head to the track and pull some awesome 17second quarters.

What get's me is you get into a car that's about the same size and just assume its going to turn about the same and then blam! wide to the right and you hit a couple senior citizens and all of sudden your a bad guy...

I would think coolant temp sensor or possibly fuel filter. Temp sensor is more likely, though.

Why don't you re-read the entire post about when he went to the dyno. Stop thinking and try reading. He and Matt were using the boost controller to keep their AFR's in check, so to speak. He just wanted to see what he would make on the dyno with that setup. Don't be silly, I'm not putting anyone down, I helped him set his car up. I just personally don't ride the 16g and forget it train. Somehow, I get the feeling I have met Phil in real life, helped him with stuff and seen his car. He has seen and asked for a ride in my car. Yet, you seem to be an internet fanboy. Try talking sensibly once in a while, quit acting like you know everything. It would really help, it really would. Don't think this is an attempt to brag. I'm just making you aware of facts that make what you are attempting to say quite rediculous. You don't more about how his car is setup, you don't much about turbo Legacy's in the first place that wasn't read on an internet board. I have personally driven one for 4 years and have done quite a bit of work to mine. So if you could allow me to let this poster know what all is ACTUALLY involved in trying to tune these that would be great. So hopefully now back on topic, destey let me know if you have any more questions about the BC turbo cars. I pay around $500 a year for full coverage. And they are quite the sleeper. At a road course I had one guy crawling on the ground to see what I had done to my car, "that's no normal Legacy!".

It stinks jumping out of an EA81 or EA82 car into a Honda or pretty much anything with a double wishbone suspension up front... turns like its a big rig in comparison.

The person you are referring to slapped a 16g on with a boost controller and called it a day. He did get 200+ whp and 260+ wtq with crazy AFR's all over the place. That's with the factory boost cut bypassed and the MAF sensor and injectors hitting their max. So yes you can get that kind of power right away if you are willing to replace things when they break. Which the owner was aware of.

You will have to excuse me if I slightly contradict some of the others when it comes to making power on the EJ22T's. I actually own one and have researched it exhaustively. - 3" Turbo-back exhaust. One from a WRX can be easily fitted by a competent muffler shop. No reason to get less than 3" since they are so common. You'd spend more to go smaller. - The up-pipe is fine, one of the last things you need to do if you are pushing for dyno-queen high numbers. Its already catless. - Larger turbo. TD05-16G is the best bang for the buck. Good for around ~300 whp with a lot of tuning. Can be bought brand new for $650 or so or around $300 used. - Increased fueling. You need different fuel rails to fit larger Subaru injectors. Or you can get custom ones made. Drop in a Walbro 255L fuel pump, also. - Engine managment. *This is the most important point* This alone can unleash nearly 100 hp on the bone stock engine. You want a full stand-alone setup like a Autronic, Mega*Squirt, etc. This will run you over $1,000 but will infinitely allow you to utilize whatever parts are thrown at the car. Piggy-backs are not even worth messing with. Also figure in $100+/hr for 4wd dyno tuning. The more tuning time, the more power. - Intercooler. The car does not come with one from the factory. You can fit a WRX top mount with some work or go with a front mount system. There is also a air-water intercooler that can be fitted relatively easily with some work running water lines and installing a pump and small radiator. So depending on what you can buy used or new on many of these parts you can get nearly 300 whp for less than $3k.

Wow! 5 spd D/R in the works?

Custom House-of-Colors paint job. Last and first time I made a car pretty.

Most of my cars were sold. Only one went to the wrecker, EA82 wagon that broke a valve or something. Dead middle of winter and it was cheaper to just find another one. The hardest one to watch go away... That's the guy that came from Atlanta to Ohio to pick it up.

Check for spark, check to make sure gas is making it into the carb. Replace the fuel filter if you have spark.

But it still has a turbo and requires premium gas, doesn't that scream boy racer again? I have neither. Good old Legacy Sport Sedan for me. The torque curves on Subaru turbo motors always whip the comparable NA. My 160 hp vs. the 165 hp a 2.5L RS is supposed to have is a joke. From a start I run away and even at highway speeds I just pull away from them. The torque curve plays a big part in this. But to be fair, these cars were under-rated from the factory. Low insurance .

Once on my '93 Legacy after a day at the road course the starter began making a funky noise. It was the most awful noise. I was worried about my lightweight flywheel teeth, didn't want to drop another $400 for another one or replace it with a crazy-heavy stock one. Ends up the ground wire for the solenoid was broken, but the ends were still close together and intermittantly making contact... so the solenoid was going in and out, in and out, in and out. So it kept re-engaging the flywheel once it started to spin until the car started. The flywheel teeth were fine. So I second the notion to pull the starter and inspect all teeth. Then just install the new one, you should be fine.

92-94 Legacy Sport Sedan (very LOW insurance rates) 2.2L turbo. SVX with a 5 speed swap already done. Should be a few floating around.