Virrdog

And why are you anti-turbo...? Wanting more power does not make you a boy racer. Stock for stock they may be close in the slower speeds but that one car length will continue to grow if they keep going (and the turbo gets to spool for more than the 2 seconds it does in 0-60). It never ceases to amaze me how my turbo will keep pulling harder 75+. And the mod potential of the turbo is ridiculous. Subaru only keeps a cap on the non-STi turbo motors for PR reasons. If you want a big fat smile on your face everytime you stab the throttle, get the turbo. If you want a compromise between sufficient power and gas mileage/grade, then a H6 would be your choice. When it comes to reliability, I would say its a toss-up. If kept stock, the XT motors are undertuned which leads to longevity (ask the 22t's ).

Ehh, it would just be for bragging rights. You could also fit a small one in the center seat.

You can always do the seafoam through the intake manifold. Whether it helps or not, its fun.

Thank you for apologizing. You have to realize that the size of the subwoofer does NOT tell you much, besides what it is capable of. I have it tuned so it sounds like it is coming from my front stage (like it should). In fact I can adjust it so that I can barely tell its still working. I was listening to Radiohead Kid A this morning on the way to work and the kick drum sounded just right and was nowhere near drowning out the synth strings coming out of the Kappas. If you were to ride in my car, you would have no idea what I had under the cargo cover. Just because you drive a 500 hp sports car, does that mean you leave black strips of rubber everytime you take off from a stop light pulling 11 second quarters?? Or can you cruise around without nailing the gas pedal? Same with my 15, I don't have it cranked and it happens to be a very smooth sounding subwoofer which is what I like.

I do believe you completely screw up the front camber when you do the cranking as supposed to the lift blocks. How long do you like your tires to last?

Not exactly sure what you mean by "OEM key set", but you can go to your local locksmith to get copies made or head to the dealership to get a overpriced version of the locksmith job done.

I have almost nil knowledge about the 6 cylinder engines, but the turbo 4 engines seem to typically be a notch above their naturally aspirated brothers. They get the latest technology and typically built much more robust like the closed deck 2.2T and now the semi-closed deck 2.5 turbo. And the turbo engines offer the absolute most flexibility when it comes to tuning it for more power down the road.

Organic clutches lose grip as they heat up. If you let them cool they can regain their structure to get some of the grip back. You are definitely on borrowed time.

I know the 92-94 Sport Sedans have the split rear folding seat. You can hold 2 passengers in the back and have the telescope poking through the small side.

I wasn't bragging. Notice I left out the circumstances and didn't say I ran them like that for any period of time. The point was I have experienced the worse of the worse to the super sticky. And I have experience on a track with several Subaru's. If a car is going to understeer it should definitely do it when entering a turn at 80 mph+, no? So with track experience being on the edge limits of tires (something rarely even possible on a public road) and having driven some crappy tires in crappy situations... I say the Potenza's are fine if you don't get lots of snow or extremes of weather (which happens to be what they are designed for). That's my educated opinion. You can disagree on my opinion and what my "education" may be. But there is really no need to argue. I put forth what I consider a valid opinion for people without the experience to be able to make a decision. If you can drive good on RE-92's, you can drive good on any tire, the same is not true vice-versa.

Yes, very good point. Don't get a super el-cheapo flare nut wrench. Drop the money for a good one and save your nuts. Did I just say "save your nuts"?

Woah, this was out of left field. Ummm... thanks for your input. There are waaay more factors to how music sounds than just the size of the speakers. For example, enclosure size... Anyways, the amount of certain frequencies depends on the users ear, as in personal preference. I didn't pay a dime for the Kappas.

I think someone on here showed how you can pull the the actual valve off and soak it over night in some sort of cleaner to get it cleaned up.

Doh! Glad you were ok and no one was hurt.

If you live where there is lots of heavy rain or snow, then you need to change them. If you keep them, drive slow. They obviously weren't designed for that, so what's the problem? Every car across the country gets the same tire, don't you think its not going to work in some of those places? It would be sheer stupidity for Subaru to put snow tires (or summer-only tires) on all of their go anywhere family vehicles. And sheer number of internet monkeys agreeing does not make a statement true. Look at the thousands of reviews on tirerack.com about how dedicated summer tires are oh-so-sucky in the snow. They finally had to disable the "snow traction" ratings on the summer tires...

Depends on what it is designed for and/or if its adjustable. It can be set or adjusted to provide lots of downforce at low speeds with a tremendous drag penalty at higher speeds. Some are meant to stabilize a car at high speeds, some at medium. Typically a real factory wing (STi, EVO, as opposed to Toyota Tercel) is meant to provide significant downforce around 70 mph or so. Grand touring type cars may have a wing or spoiler that keeps the car stable at Autobahn type speeds. The cars with pop-up type spoilers usually engage around 70 mph or so, too. The rear wing is used to plant the rear end of the car, whether its FWD, AWD, or RWD. If you are racing and the car is FWD, just like 99% of other cars with its engine in the front... you have a lighter back-end. Less weight = less grip. So a wing is used to provide extra traction at the rear for high speed cornering. Do FWD cars need it on public streets? No. Also some wings/spoilers are not meant to increase downforce, per se. They are used to reduce lift. Just like a plane, if you get going fast enough you create a low pressure spot above the car that can start lifting the car, decreasing traction. Adding a hundred pounds of downforce is typically used for a racing car.

A flare-nut wrench is a beautiful thing. Everything should turn normal. Be careful not to mess up the fittings once you get them loose. They seal because of the special flares they have at the end.

Nice. You should try out sound deadening while you have it apart.

System runs on resistance... Ecu reads higher resistance... Grounding out... I don't know for sure... <-- Bingo I'm thinking perhaps you should have started and stopped there. Because it sure sounds like you don't know what you are talking about. And what's grounding out? Is that a dance or something?

So ignorant people think that AWD makes them God in a car and that's Subaru's fault? And if you think it doesn't make it handle better then look up a little concept called slip angles. So what other mass production family car doesn't have an understeer quality. It IS what's considered safer. Try driving a GTi all winter where you have a FWD car that likes to lose its backend. You'll want your understeering AWD car back in a hurry. And if you are still driving like AWD makes you God-on-wheels then you are going to understeer BAD. So most of that is definitely the driver. If you learn to get your braking done correctly and go slow-in fast-out of the corners through a proper line... understeer is not a problem. And AWD is so much more than straight-line acceleration. Yes, that is where the greatest impact is felt in bad weather. But once again look up slip angles. Personally I think there is nothing wrong with the tires. They are by no means bad tires. I have driven everything from shaved R-compound tires to unrated snow/mud tires and completely bald summer tires through snow. I also frequent a road course every year with professional instruction. I have put many a tire through its paces and if you wreck with RE-92's the problem is the driver, not the tire. They grip fine where they are supposed to be. If you are driving through snow-drifts with them, the driver needs to slow his butt down, bottom line. Scape goat is right. Summary: -If you have massive understeer with your tires and the aligment is right, the problem is the driver. -If you take ok all-season tires and drive them through really crappy weather, you need to really slow down. Sorry if the post comes across as strong, I feel strongly on the matter.

I might have to try something like this, especially in the wheel wells. But I'll make sure I don't cover up any of those important 14mm bolts that hold suspension stuff. Already have Infinity Kappas up front amped and a 15" Kicker in the back. I still want the car to be as quiet as reasonably possible to hear all the detail my Infinity's can produce.

:confused:

That sounds OEM. I have never heard of adding ground wires causing trouble. So this is an interesting case. To avoid this you can stick to duplicating factory ground spots. Put your wire along the same path and ground to the same bolts. Or make sure you take all of your ground wires to the same spot.

I am on the same mission. Things like the wind noise (not frameless window noise) you can not make go away unless you change the aerodynamics on the front end where it creates the noise. Some sort of sound insulation on the floorboards and inside the doors will knock down a lot of the road noise. Doing the same with the firewall would help with engine noise, too. Eventually you will get to the point where you will hear the noise through the glass itself. The roof on my wagon needs reinforced and sound deadened. I want to take it all apart one day to see whats going on up there. But I can see the entire thing bulge upwards when I close the rear hatch. And on top of sound deadening, it helps to have a sound absorbing layer on key parts of the body. Closed cell foams are recommended for cars so they don't mold. More info can be found at Raam Audio and Sound Deadener Showdown.

He might just be talking about the phone battery...