Virrdog

Highly unlikely. Factory subs are found under the front seats. And it would need more than 2 prongs if it was for an amp and/or sub.

How did you clean the contacts? With some sand paper? I would go ahead and clean the contacts in your master switch, too, just to eliminate the easy stuff to do. Next would be to grease everything up I guess. I'll have to do that one of these days.

I thought it was posted somewhere on here that you can spray penetrant in the spark plug holes and the try to work the crank back forth once a day and possibly break it loose.

Doh! I usually run it through my head... Positive-Crankcase-Ventilation.

I'll just throw in that you also probably want to go ahead and replace your fuel filter and PVC valve. I'm pretty sure the PVC valve took my turbo Legacy from around 18 mpg up to 22 mpg in city driving.

That's good to know. 2.125" is close enough to 2.125984" (54mm) for me.

The only gas tank sizes that I have seen Subaru use is the 50L or 60L, which corresponds to 13.2 Gal or 15.9 Gal. Just to remove variables, has this happened at more than one gas pump? If not you might have found a magical gas pump that gives you free gas. It is common to have the gauge read wrong. You might want to throw a gas can in your trunk and make sure the car can go 280 miles after a fillup. Then put some gas in and see how much you used. It should be around 14 gallons if you are getting a true 20mpg. And there are quite a few tune-up items that will get your gas mileage up to where it should be.

Just put the door and fender on it. You have access to Subaru forums that would allow you to find this very easily and cheaply. And its so easy to do, so just do it. That'll make your car worth much more.

Sorry, there is no way to get RWD with just electronics on any Subaru non-DCCD transmission. If you knew how the output shaft of the transmission went into the center differential, you would understand this. If you want RWD you must take the center differential out and weld it so it will no longer "differentiate" and effectively make the car 4wd. Then you can either modify/remove the front differential or rig the front axles so they don't spin under power. I'm not exactly sure you can just remove them without leaking tranny fluid everywhere. Then you will have a RWD car. The only other option is to put a STi transmission (a completely different beast) in the vehicle with an aftermarket controller to vary the car from FWD to RWD. THAT is the final answer. There is no need to argue this, I have seen a RWD Legacy (same chassis as yours) and this is how it was done. Further arguing would just waste bandwidth.

No one is arguing with you. Just waiting for actual evidence instead of anecdotes about what you've seen and how long you've been in the industry. This is the internet, anyone can say what you've said and not back it up. You can be different and help us make the change if the danger is real. But I also notice that we don't happen to drive turbo-diesels...

You're not completely incompetent. Expecting to do something perfectly the first time ever is a pretty high expectation. Lessons learned the hard way stick longer.

Generally, up front you might need spacers to fit an aftermarket speaker with a larger magnet.

Not quite. A very lean mixture will get the best gas mileage (but this increases nitrous-oxide emissions). On Autronic stand-alone ECU's they have a highway mode that can be used with very tight tuning. It lets the car run up to 16:1 ratios under light load. So you have 300+ whp monsters driving around on big turbos that can get 30 mpg on the highway. Also some of the newer "green" cars are going towards a leaner mixture for the higher mileage with extra emissions systems to reduce the Nox side effect. And the Venom 400 is snake-oil. Avoid it.

I think we have covered that you gain hp with premium IF the ecu and/or an engine variable changes. You can't increase the ignition timing on later Subarus. You get no extra power from premium unless for some reason your engine is setting off the knock sensor in a newer Subaru. If your NA engine, which is designed for 87, is setting off the knock sensor you have other things you want to fix rather than looking for the premium pump. Great argument... if only there was one shred of evidence to base it on. Other than the fact its possible a large number of powerstroke guys like the performance benefits of the K&N - therefore lots of blown engines have a really popular mod installed. You have no idea how many unblown engines are running around with K&N filters. Another great argument would be the fart-can mufflers Civic guys put on their cars causes the self-destructing distributors seen on so many Honda engines... because almost every car that comes in with a red dust throwing distributor has a fart can on it. :-\

What Jetta forum? Here? http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=3 That's where I would go if you are not sure. Do lots of searching specifically in the MK3 Jetta forum.

Woah, how did this thread go from drop-in replacement K&N air filters to eliminating air-boxes and cold air intakes all the way to putting premium gas into a car that's not made for it? I'm not adding any opinions here but these comments are interesting to say the least. :-\

Do the thermostat trick, see the results and then consider your next step. That will tell you more conclusively which way to throw the money.

I don't about using the OEM valve, I used one I bought from NAPA. But I'm pretty sure its what took my Sport Sedan from burning 12-16mpg to a more respectable 20+. Aka getting more than 300 miles per tank.

When I get into my Sport Sedan, it makes me want to drive it like I do on the track. Redline every gear and throw it into a corner at insane speeds. Very hard to be "relaxed" in the car and it sips up the gas no matter how you drive it. 9 psi is nice pulling up a hill without even changing your foot position on the gas pedal, but it eats up 4 times the gas any of my GL's could use at full throttle in first gear going up the same. When I jump into my GL wagon with its tinted windows, nice sound system, stock vibration dampening mounts... I can just chill and the car is down for whatever. Wanna go a little off road? Go up a crazy looking hill? Rev out 95 mph on the highway? Get 30 mpg? It can do them all, maybe none of them well, but it CAN.

Wow. Awesome. Get a 2" lift and some slightly bigger tires on there so you can avoid some of the exhaust bashing.

I would try this next. See if the extra flow makes a difference. If not, you can be pretty sure your water pump or coolant passages are toast.

Good point. Does the noise change in left or right turns?

Adjusting your timing is free (as long as you have a timing light or one to borrow).

There is a giant thread on the BC Legacy BBS that has all the correct ranges for the values and Vikash commenting on them.

Sorry about that! I know how annoying that can be. The best way I have found to do the alcohol trick is this: Take the tank to nearly empty. Put in ~1 liter of alcohol, drive like mad to the station to keep the car hot. Pass the test and drive immediately to a gas station to dilute the alcohol with 12+ gallons of gasoline. Go ahead and set your timing lower, too, while you are at it. Less advance will get you more complete combustion. Should lower the CO numbers.