Virrdog

Depends on what you are doing. Some people like to keep the stock radio to reinstall when they sell the car. And if you use an adapter, the wire colors will match that of the aftermarket radio... eliminating the need for a wiring diagram. (Buy the radio from Crutchfield and the adapter + install instructions are all free ) And I don't know exactly what you did trial and error, but crossing the wrong wires on a aftermarket highpower radio can blow up the internal amp pretty much instantly. So that's something to be careful about.

What wiring diagram do you need? Was the plug behind your radio cut before? You should just need an adapter you can get from crutchfield to match the aftermarket wires to the adapter. And I ran all new 12 gauge speaker wire for my speakers, so I'm not a whole lot of help for fixing the common ground issue.

That's what I plan on my '89 and my '93 with the EJ22t. Wait until they need something major (timing belt, clutch, etc...) then pull the motor out and give it and the engine bay some lovin.

Wow, that is an awesome body shop. Not many that actually work with their customers like that around anymore (unless they get hyper $$$)

Updates??

Some people say don't top it off, because if it's low enough then you probably need new pads or shoes. Personally, I am a topper. Along with the other possibilities, if you have rear drums and the shoes are all the way gone... the seals can pop out of the wheel cylinder and leak brake fluid into the drum. You will see the backing plate look kind of wet. Ask me how I know this...

Yeah, I'd just ignore the person. Nothing to get upset about really. There are people out there that think any car with over 100k is junk. Just more cars available at a better price for me! This guy apparently thinks the mileage is directly correlated to the amount of parts that must be replaced.

Are the weighted arms in the distributor moving smoothly? I would guess that could cause a deadspot if they were sticking and would be easy to check.

Just don't forget the stuff you mentioned before... get it tuned up good. Make sure the PCV system is clean if you don't eliminate it and definitely check your engine timing, one wagon I bought was running only 3 degrees of advance!! Needless to say it perked up a bit after setting the timing to max. factory specs.

This isn't normal for me, but I say go with the white. It just has something going with all the black and white with it's body shape.

I don't know about doing that, but you might need to replace your knock sensor wiring. You can run a new shielded wire from the ECU to the sensor. It is in a perfect spot to get rubbed in the engine. I think that's what I need to do with mine. The changing timing would definitely point to a knock sensor issue if your belt isn't jumping teeth left and right!

So in other words, you are saying that I installed HIDs purely for looks, or that everyone who installs them does it just for the looks? If that were the case, then why the heck is the light output 10x better than the highest wattage halogen light bulbs I could install? I'll try this one more time. If you did not do it for looks and think putting HID's in a fluted lense housing designed for different bulbs will help you see better, that's a little misguided. Do what you want, but actually read the links I posted and the graphs you already referred to. There is a reason these "conversions" are illegal on most every continent. It's kind of like using an impact gun to put on your valve cover bolts. With lots of modifications to the gun you could get it to the point where it won't murder the bolts and shear them off... but it's still the wrong application. Using the right tool is always better than making the wrong tool work. Good night from the Eastern Daylight Savings timezone! P.S. - The light might be 10x brighter, but not necessarily better. At a certain point even a halogen bulb would be too much for a given housing, it would need to be in a different housing designed to handle it's lumen output to put out an acceptable pattern.

Let me clarify: HID conversions installed in a housing intended for completely different types of lights are for looks primarily. Using them for better night vision is misguided at best. Properly outfitted HID lamps in properly designed housings are great for many applications.

Obvious and I don't think he has an electrical load problem, so I don't see how lower wattages help. Absolutely correct. And you can screw yourself, especially with the way the conversions have to be aimed. You create intense hot spots right in front of you that diminish your ability to see down the road. :cool: This is great if you never plan on going over 35 in the dark. How exactly did you measure all this? I'll see your made up numbers and raise you testing done by people that have the expensive equipment to get real numbers: http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/HID/HB1_HID_Retro.pdf Notice that every spot on the chart where there is a maximum light output (to protect oncomers and/or driver) these HID retrofits are often 10x (some over 20x) too bright AFTER being readjusted! Some are over 25x times too bright before being adjusted with their equipment. Imagine trying to eyeball your light adjustments... You might be able to break the 100x mark if your lucky. This is jibberish. Any adjustments to make the light go where you want is a misnomer, without the right measuring equipment you have no idea where it is going. Don't get me wrong, everyone can do what they want. You are not required to follow my advice. But please stop all the bullcrap, these lights are for looks primarily. Using them for better night vision is misguided at best. Now you know that you will blind oncoming traffic dangerously no matter what you do... and you are possibly hindering your own night sight. All this before we even get into color rendering.... OEM lights have to pass rigorous tests. Get those working at their best first. If the plastic lenses are hazy or cloudy fix that first. If there is moisture inside the housing, get it out. If the light still seems inadequate upgrade the wiring, there are plenty of places that tell you how to do it. (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html) Still not good enough, add some auxillary driving lights (HID if have the cash). Packaged ready made and puts out a good light pattern.

HID's will not make you see better. They will only make you THINK you see better. It will create hot spots and it will actually diminish your night vision because of how much your iris's will close in your eye. Auxillary driving light high beams are probably your best choice. Do you have a picture of your headlights? They also might have some haze on them that can be fixed.

Have you done the relay mod on your headlights so that the ground on the bulb can go directly to the battery? This helps cut out the voltage loss from all the tiny OEM power wires.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html Read up. Both articles have lots of good information, especially the one on conversions.

Hrmm, only thing I can suggest is that if a thread starts to go nowhere, just bail. Come back with a question or whatever you need in a different thread later. There is no fuel for the fire if you ignore it. Playing nice guy just doesn't work on the internet, especially on a site inhabited and moderated by very juvenile people. :-\

Awesome. Any idea of the weight of the car?

6.5" fit just fine into the front doors of an EA82 wagon. I don't think I even did any cutting. They fit behind the stock cloth grill. I just had to drill new mounting holes. I did this for some old-school Infinity Kappa's with giant silk-dome tweeters.

From SOA's "Subaru Insider" It will be interesting to see what they come up with! I am not going to hate/speculate until it is actually in final form available for sale to the public.

I love following this thread! Any plans on sound deadening when you put the car back together?

Exactly. Awesome thinking, awesome work. Claps all around! :clap: :clap:

We are comparing the price for the same OEM thermostat, though. Nobody wants the cheapie jive ones.

More... velocity....