Virrdog

Local dealership gives the local Subaru forum guys 15% off. Usually beats online and they price match.

Throw some teflon tape on the shaft and crank it down. Done it many times.

Just another possibility. If the knock sensor is going crazy then the ECU will pull timing. This kills the power quite effectively. There are seperate periods where the car will pull timing but keep full boost... then pull timing and boost... then all of the above plus the CEL.

Personally I would stay away from Spec products. I had a very bad experience with their kevlar clutches disintegrating in my Legacy. They then proceeded to stop responding to my e-mails after kept having trouble with the warrantied one. But that's a heavier car, YMMV.

I will try to not resort to calling names, but you have not provided any proof of smart thinking in this post. Regardless of how you like the guy who wrote the article, did you check out the actual tests that are conducted on the "kits"? The spread and pattern of the light output was not conducive to the human eye seeing well at night. Doesn't matter how uppity the person or yourself maybe, the eye is still human. And check out what a kit did to E-code lights, it took some of the best looking optics and even made it's sharp cut off all blurry and crappy looking. It throws light in the wrong places. Glaring other people is just one of the side effects. Having too much light in the wrong places can be just as bad as not enough light. And I'm sorry, personal subjective observations of how good/bad the light may be is worth the paper its written on. Lighting patterns have been studied for about a century now and they have figured out works. Advanced machines can let you know if the lighting pattern and brightness of a bulb/housing combination is within range for a human seeing well at night. To ignore all that is well, silly. But if someone wants to put these on their car purely for looks, knowing that they can't see as far, might be blinding others, among other things... more power to them.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

And make sure the electric bottle warmer cannot stay on after the car is off. Nitrous bottle explosions are bad... but make nice pictures afterward.

Cool. Dry or Wet?

Ok, I did forget a couple of things... everything in the transmission up to but not including the output shaft does spin faster... more losses there. But everything from the output shaft through the tires only has frictional losses. Their momentum alone (without the friction) tries to keep the car going the same speed. So those pieces only hinder the work of the engine braking. Case in point: a carbon fiber one-piece driveshaft makes engine braking more effective. Why? Less rotating mass for the engine through inputshaft pieces to slow down. Yeah, as is mentioned in the post after yours - it's not a huge force, but does help bring speeds down where friction and the heat capacitance of brakes can keep things under control. It's not proportional to the weight of the vehicle (its more or less fixed in a range created by engine design and gearing) so the more mass the vehicle possesses, then the less effective the engine braking.

Absolutely no reason to get rid of that car unless your paycheck is into S&M. The 'other shoe' only drops from previous bad owners.

Interesting discussion. One thing to keep in mind is that there is not one correct answer. All the things mentioned would add up to the car slowing down. The car slows down in neutral, so there are already forces slowing it down there. But it slows down faster when downshifting. So this intensifies or possibly adds some other forces. Friction - AWD system and engine bearings, etc. Higher engine revs would increase the engines internal friction. Energy is converted from spinning the engine. Rotational inertia - Once again, only experienced in the engine with higher revs. AWD system components are going the same speed or slower through all of this. Energy is converted from accelerating the flywheel, crankshaft, pistons, accessories, oilpump, etc. Increased Vacuum - Energy is definitely converted creating the vacuum. If any of that is released anywhere, I'll leave that to the smarter people. So the drivetrain losses are constant and the only additional forces can come from inside the engine. So I'm pretty sure its correctly called 'engine braking'. P.S. - I know all my terminology might not be textbook correct, but hopefully its clear.

I'm with you on this! Most overlooked part, IMO. Can cause a myriad of symptoms from a part that can be bought with change found in a couch. This goes for all the Subaru engines that have them. EA or EJ. Change it and your gas mileage might go up and solve problems that you couldn't fix before.

There is nothing really to argue about here on the USMB. None of us have the equipment necessary to actually MEASURE the light coming out of a headlamp with certain bulbs. Photomagraphy (or whatever the field is called) has researched this stuff for decades and has figured out what intensities and spread patterns are acceptable for human night vision. The link I provided above explains what happens when you put a HID bulb in one not meant for it. Here's just one example cited in that link: http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/HID/HB1_HID_Retro.pdf HID kits put light where it does not belong, period. End of discussion. Having too much light in the wrong spot can be just as bad as not enough. Read the link I provided above for more explanation. Subjective reviews of how well kits work or don't work are worth the paper they are written on. Edit: Forgot to mention that despite possibly decreasing long distance vision they also glare the crap out of anybody coming the other way. Not to mention that they really suck in bad weather, too.

You will end up overall seeing worse at night. I would save your money and upgrade the wiring to your existing headlamps or replace the entire housing with something that has a better lighting pattern. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Ripped the strut top mounts apart on a '85 Brat with a steady diet of jumping some railroad tracks.

Also high load, no air moving through the radiator...

Fixed right? A lot. The door will have to be fixed and made flat. Then the door will need to be painted and the two adjoining panels blended in.

I ran into the timing problem. Only 2 degrees of advance makes the car slow.... Set it to the highest specified value in the owners manual.

*yawn* can about 90% of the posts in this thread be deleted? To answer your question, and not really knowing about your specific area, you'd probably be able to get about $2k on the East coast depending on how really awesomerest (<--new word, yay me!) it looks in pictures/person. But this also depends highly on how much the odometer says. Even with a new engine high miles will kill the value. And +1 on getting the car appraised to have a higher insured value. Classic cars are worth ~$200 without one.

Interesting. On my '93 Legacy I can get the starter out in about 8 minutes (lots of practice). I have to grab a couple of bolts from up top and slide underneath for the one on the underside.

Honestly, it sounds like you just need to find a good dealer that will service the car correctly. Where in Ohio are you?

They just increase the heat sinking capacity of the brakes. If you aren't fading out your brakes from over-heating them just keep your stock stuff well-maintained and you will be fine. Now on my Sport Sedan which sees road tracks and makes frequently repeated stops from above 100mph down to the 30mph region at said tracks, I'm very glad I have rear vented rotors. Never had to pull in early because of overheated brakes.

That is one sweet looking driveway with that collection of vehicles!

You will be fine. It's good to be able to get over cars, because they are just that cars. It will hurt at times, but mostly from past experiences always seem better than they really were. You will also notice there will be plenty of XT's to buy later down the road. I ended up having to sell my Brat which was quite a blow. But now I could buy one every week... but no longer have any desire to. Moved on. So congratulations.

And sometimes ABS absolutely rocks. Isn't that how it goes with everything in life? What's the point of this thread again?