Virrdog

Pretty much any EJ powered car up to 2001 or so. Anything before the Legacy ('02?) went to a different rear suspension, and the STi ('05?) went to larger hubs up front.

Yeah, its usually a good idea to change the belts when you are in there. Its really easy to do and a LOT easier than trying to stuff an EJ in there. Just take your time and take out the radiator and clean everything as you go. Its the first thing I did on my current wagon and was quite fun... once I got the timing belt covers off.

What about EJ's? Putting one in or buying an EJ powered car? Timing belt is a relatively easy job that can be done with simple hand tools, some sand paper and possibly an angle grinder & zipties (for the belt cover bolts). You could buy the full timing belt kit and water pump on e-bay for a fraction of that total cost and install everything in a weekend. It doesn't sound like the shop is going to replace the tensioners. What exactly did he tell you that indicated the belts and water pump needed changed? Mileage?

I love my electric impact. It might not have as much breaking torque as advertised, but you can sit and wail on the bolt forever without running out of air.

Aye aye. I didn't know about these when I did my belt and found out afterward this is where the biggest oil leak is...

This is my 1993 Legacy SS. Those are real miles baby, none of that sissy metric 'kill-mom-eater' stuff My 1989 GL wagon is nothing to sneeze at. Its at 105,000 baby miles. That's an average of 5800 a year!

Since you spun out, I'd assume your AWD is working. Its the rear tires that would push your back end around. Tires make a huge difference. My Legacy was not my daily driver for a while and would be wearing bald summer tires from going to roadcourses. It was hilarious the snow it would get stuck in. Oh, and spooling the turbo on a snow covered highway would kick the back end out and start spinning the tires. So yeah, tires can make AWD nearly useless.

There is no need to change it. Your car is acting normal... I remember those days, wanted to fiddle with everything on my Brat...

And make sure your coolant is topped off. Simple, but it might have been missed.

I get 15% off at the local Subaru dealership and they price match.

Try cleaning the MAF sensor element with some brake cleaner first. A starting to go bad MAF does not necessarily trigger the check engine light, it might just be dirty.

[pet peeve] Blanket... Statement... [/pet peeve] I work with designing roadways and the typical sections change everywhere you go. Some haven't changed for decades. I see code books that are older than me all the time, but I wouldn't exactly call those towns "modern". But yeah, cars should track straight, but never left. On an even surface.

Have you changed the PCV valve recently? And if it runs worse with your Mom driving it, then you must be a lead foot if she is not. The ECU will learn to respond to certain repeated inputs. This has been seen many time on the Turbo Legacy's. I also have personally seen this depending on how I drive my car. When its a secondary car and gets driven relatively hard each time, it would stumble on midway acceleration since it was used to full throttle. Oh, and its your heavy flywheel that keeps it from spinning up so fast from idle. I have the exedy flywheel and it blips and revs twice as fast as when I had the factory lead brick in there.

Believing does not make reality. It should be 15.9 unless someone installed the wrong tank at some point. Please please PLEASE stop saying that! I thought this was covered enough times, gas gauges -when they are working correctly- are rough estimates of how much at a minimum is in your tank. That would definitely point to the CTS or possibly MAF and/or sticky injector (but less likely on the last 2 if its running good). Have you replaced the CTS, yet? Its only a couple of bucks and is usually bad... and would cause poor gas mileage. Hint Hint Hint... Does that make it ok? You and logic don't seem to be bedfellows.

Its been so long since I had my Brat, but I'm pretty sure its all mechanical. Here is the sucky possibility. There is some sort of nest or blockage in that portion of the vent ducting. Or a linkage that is not opening that door.

Trying not to stray off-topic in this thread. But when they develop their identity is subjective to the viewer, and I'm not singling anyone out on their views. But I'd say having a longitudal FWD layout with a boxer engine is one pretty substantial identity since no one has stuck with that layout since (or attempted?) and they still do it to this day. What they do for window frames is inconsequential and simply styling, IMO. SVX is then not a Subaru either... silliness. This FF-1 is definitely a Subaru, the heart is there. [ontopic] The engine bay is looking great!

Dude, get real mileage readings. Ignore the gauge. Seriously. Miles traveled / number of gallons consumed. Do that for at least 500 miles. And if you car is magically losing gas it might be the tank has a leak. Something to check. Check the following: Spark plugs Spark plug wires O2 Sensor / Wiring PCV Vavle Fuel filter Air filter Vacuum lines Replace all of them except for the 02 sensor if you have done it recently. I would definitely get rid of the cheap spark plug wires, though. Get some NGK's silicone wires. If your car coolant temperature sensor is bad it will tell the car to run rich to warm up constantly and consume lots of gas running real rich.

A front strut bar can help alleviate some of the stress that comes from the unibody deforming. This was noticed at a Rally-x where most of the Imprezas with front bars had solid windshields, whereas most of the ones without had small cracks starting in the middle down by the firewall.

Nokian makes an all season tire that's better than a lot of dedicated snows.

Its really easy to return, by the way. They are like Walmart (no hassle). Just click the return button in your account on Amazon and explain why. Quite simple. I know, because I had to return an axle because I ordered the wrong one since GCK's application guide mislead me!

The German tuner community, especially the VW/Audi lovers, love to do things purely for looks regardless of the consequences. If you can fit a finger between your tire and the fender your car "looks like a 4x4".

Oh NOESSSS... it has window frames, its NOT a SUBARU!!!!! I bet you the lights stay on when you take the key out, too. Dastardly! (Link for the irony challenged )

You lost me there ^^^ Just check the load rating of whatever tire you get. If the tire is thinner than the wheel, then the sidewalls will stretch out to meet the wheel. German car tuners do this all the time to quite silly extents. I would not worry about it. Get a nice 185/195 tire that's a little taller like the others have mentioned.

OH MY. hahahhahahhaha :lol: Yeah, that guy marches to the beat of his own drum. Ignore most everything he says. His screen name on here is "B G D 7 3" with no spaces. His name is a swear word here...

Wiper motor is in the engine compartment on the firewall.