Virrdog

Power ratings don't matter for the speakers. Sensitivity does. You want a speaker that has higher sensitivity. It will make more noise with the wattage you do have. Lower sensitivity speakers usually can handle more power, but on the flip side also need it to overcome the beefy components that have to move. (Also can be worded as: higher power handling usually means lower sensitivity) So go for speakers with the highest sensitivity in your price range. For example, if there are 2 speakers and they are rated at 92 db/w and 95 db/w you want the one at 95. It puts out twice the sound energy with the same power, everything else being equal.

What "exhaust" do you have that is not louder? Did you just do the axleback? If so a downpipe makes a significant difference. You can always quiet the car back down with a cat and extra resonators before the muffler. Bigger or front mount intercooler + custom tune for your car would make the engine safer and more efficient (aka more power). A slightly larger turbo would enhance the effect. But if you go too big then you will start needing bigger injectors, etc...

Exedy is the flywheel you want, I don't know if they make one for the NA models, though. Stock clutch with a fresh pressure plate is all you need. I have taken a very long and expensive journey to find this out. :-\

Uhh, yes. No. You want maximum cylinder pressure near but after TDC so the force will push the cylinder down. Right at TDC there is less leverage on the crank, when the crank lobe is approaching 60-90 degress from that cylinder is where you want the most push. Think about what you just said. Why would the exhaust valves be open on the compression stroke before ignition? The valves open after the ignition event, so the more advance (which means the cylinder sparks before the piston reaches the top) would mean less explosion is around when the exhaust valves open. More resistant yes. Wait longer, no. The more detonation prone the engine the higher the octane or LESS ignition advance needed. Gas burns at a certain rate. So there is a certain amount of time you want to allow it to burn and expand before the piston reaches top dead center so it pushes down with the most force. There is a general advance timing that allows this at certain rev ranges (the faster the engine is moving the faster you need to ignite the gas to allow it time to expand, that's why almost all engines have timing that advances with revs). The problem with too much advancing is that the gasoline mixture is easier to combust out of control at lower pressures. The more advance means the lower the cylinder pressure when sparked. High octane allows you to run more advance to reach the timing sweet spot because it resists this out of control burn. Hope all that makes sense. Less advance means farther away from the sweet spot and the gas has less time to burn and expand. As I mentioned in the paragraph above, more advance means more pre-detonation prone... thus the use of high octane fuel. And since the original poster has a turbo car at a track, super high octane is the proper way to go. Heat adds to pre-detonation risk. There is a LOT of heat coming from the supercharged air AND everything is hotter driving hard at a track. 98+ octane is the way to go. NA cars can sip something milder typically, but who wants a NA Subaru at a road course? Not I!

Congratulations. That is the best performance mod you can do for your car! Tighten up the loose nut behind the wheel. Oh, and I get about 5-6 mpg when I am at a track day with my BC Turbo Legacy. That gets spendy at $6 a gallon.

But I'm checking out some of the featured videos on Streetfire.net and come across a comment that I just cannot wrap my head around. I look at the username, boxer3main, and think hmmm... could it be? Naw. Click his unsername and sure enough its our old favorite loonie in perfect form in yet another arena! http://videos.streetfire.net/comments/boxer3main.htm Enjoy! Can anyone guess this former members username?

A little JB weld and your good!

That point is already passed. Its extremely difficult to replace the radios on many of the new cars. Tied into the HVAC, SRS, airbags, etc... Airbags would not help so much. Bumpers that shot out an extra distance to slow the deceleration rate would. Speed doesn't kill, rapid deceleration does.

I forgot how the speakers are right beside the seat on the Brat's. You might want to look for kick panels that fit up by your feet. That would probably be your best bet for getting a decent sound stage in that vehicle. And a sub is always a good idea. Way back in the day I had a 15" Kicker in a custom made box for my Brat. Oh, those were the days...

Its been years since I had my Brat, and I didn't do my own audio work back then. :-\ But you should be able to find the properly sized speakers and install them with a spacer and be ready to roll. If I were to put a system in a Brat again I would abandon the dash speakers and just do the doors, possibly with tweeters in the A-pillar. What are you installing this weekend, a radio or just the speakers? Properly amped, decent door speakers should be able to play NPR over highway noise all day.

Those speakers probably won't handle temperature extremes very well. Plus they are probably 8 Ohm and will cut your power output in half compared to 4 Ohm car stereo speakers. So half as loud with more delicate speakers. Not to say they won't work. But they won't work very well.

I like the format! Speakers, probably a bad ground. Pull the cover on the speaker and make a visual inspection. A lot of times the little tabs that hold on the speaker terminals become loose. Just another possibility for things changing after long turns... Wheel bearing might be old. Extra play lets it push the brake pad back into the caliper, thus causing a different noise. Its a long shot.... There is a fix for the g-force blue cloud. The PVC system was designed improperly. There is a subaru part number for the fix. Oil is getting into the intake because of mismatched hose sizes in the PVC system. I'm trying to search for a relevant thread to get that part number.

When you go to sell that car, you'll get a grand for it. You will be fortunate to get more. Keep that in mind.

I have to disagree. If things are stayed on top of and fixed right, then the car treats you well. When buying a used car, you usually have to catch up on all of the maintenance that the previous owner did not do. Get that stuff squared away and the car should be ready to roll for a while. There are of course notable exceptions, like rust and when the car keeps munching completely good parts over and over again. I tried keeping the 98 Jetta my wife had when we were married. It would not cooperate, so it went. Another side point: if you like the car you will put up with MUCH more than if you do not like the car. If you like it every problem is "not that bad".

Ahh, but is that from the car being higher or lack of sway bar connectiveness?

With no power steering you have to really crank on the wheel at lower speeds. Are you not use to non-power steering or does it take a phenomenal effort to turn the wheel? If it feels fine at speed, then I would say everything would be fine. If something was freezing up you would find it very hard to make say a right hand turn onto a street.

I don't see how the sway bar is useless like that Seems like it will still transfer the energy into the swaybar. Or is it banging into something? Lengthening the mounts sounds kind of risky in the long term, gives the bar more leverage on those threads in the frame doesn't it?

Just a another point on that... the tranny mount is guaranteed to be shot. Replace with a new one if possible, will make a world of difference. If its Awd 5 speed, a Group-N mount is made for it. And put some fresh tranny fluid in there. Doing this with the new shifter bushings should make it feel better than new (especially with a Group-N mount).

Don't forget it makes the car look MUCH better. Make sure you go ahead and get the "premium" metallic tint. It does a much better job of actually reflecting the sun's rays instead of just absorbing them. Cheap tint is essentially dyed saran wrap. The good stuff has actual metal fibers that do the reflecting. Only downside is it hurts reception if you have the radio antenna built into a window and it might knock down cell phone reception a touch.

Awesome, its crazy how far radios have come since I last bought one 4 years ago... Excellent find on the winter wheels/tires, too. :cool:

Looks good! Now if only I had the money laying around.

The first piece of advice is to get a REAL picture of the vehicle. Pay for one if you have to. The picture will sell the car. eBay motors reaches some 20+ million people, if you think you can get better coverage than that... I would definitely try to sell the vehicle locally and through free services first, like Craigslist and Subaru forums like this one. But eBay will find the most potential buyers the quickest.

Have fun dealing with the code, I'm still fighting with it on mine... There is a diagram around that will show you very clearly where the temp sensor would be (if you have one). Edit: Found it.

No pics? I was just trying to understand what you were talking about. You asked for suggestions and what other people are running. I can get some pics for you if you want to see how mine is set up. It's a little easier for me to amp stuff, though, because I have the battery in the back.

Any progress?