steamin53

Good advice of course. I wonder where I might find interchange data for my car's tranny. Or maby interchage data for just the tailshaft extension and clutch pack. Sure would be nice to find one that has be retrofitted to the new configuration housing and had the clutches rebuild. I wonder how one might identify that as having been done?

I don't find any here for sale. The problem is clearly the Duty Solenoid C sticking. Since SHE has driven her car extensively with out telling me about the problem I have little doubt that the tailshaft extension clutch pack is also likely shot too. Given the 210K on the car and that to deal with it would be far simpler to get another tranny. Anyone have one out there for an EJ25 in a 96 Legacy Outback? Steve

Price and assurances of most having less than 60K miles on them; far less than mine with 200K+. I'm going to have to rebuild or replace the clutch pack to correct a torque bind issue so it seems that the JDM would be a good choice UNLESS there is extensive modification required.

1996 Legacy Outback Auto AWD. What's involved in swapping my US production model 4EAT tranny with a Japanese Domestic 4EAT Transmission? The vendor indicates that some "sensors" may need to be changed but doesn't seem to have any specific information. Steve

Since I don't own it yet... I'm not going to mess with it. Wondering about the possibilities though. From Car Fax report it appears this vehicle may have set for some time. Would you expect plugs or wires with only 43K miles on the car? Also, if it were the MAF sensor wouldn't it affect the engine at all speeds and loads. This car has good power but misses at very light throttle in gear or as I said between 1K and 2K RPM out of gear. I don't want to get burned on this one. I'm well prepared now for the head gasket possibilities. Any other ideas?

Still trying to decide whether to buy this car. 99 outback with 43,000 miles on it. The engine seems to idle ok but just off idle from about 1000 to 1500 rpm it runs rough as heck...even shakes the body. Runs strong on the highway and seems to run smooth in neutral above 2000 rpm. Any ideas?

Thanks for all the input. I guess it's settled that it's the DOHC 2.5. I own a 96 now purchased with close to 180K miles on it and as far as I could tell it never had blown the head gaskets but the engine did knock. I purchased a reman 2.5 from Emily and crew at CCR. Had a valve train noise and the good folks from Denver replaced the engine with another. It's running strong. Thanks CCR. Not often these days that one get's what's promised. The 99 I'm considering buying really is cherry and only has about 45K miles on it. For $6700 tax and all I'm really tempted to buy it. Hmmmmmmm wonder if there are any overheat sensors on the factory engine. Something like the type that are installed on the remanufactured CCR engine to show if the engine has EVER overheated? Of course, since I put the first CCR engine in our 96 model I know what's involved in the engine pull. I imagine the head gasket job would be pretty straight forward too if I just did it as a preventive measure. What's the recommendation you all would make as regards purchase of this 99 Outback given that it too has the 2.5 DOHC engine and is at 45K miles?

I read here somewhere that the 2000 model was SOHC but that some 1999 models were also SOHC. I'd go look but I don't have time to do so tomorrow. Wondered if any way existed by VIN check or build date check. S

I'm considering purchase of a 99 Legacy Outback. As I understand what I've read here there may be two versions of the 2.5 engine in this car. One a DOHC prone to Head Gasket failures and the other a SOHC less prone to such failures. Without wasting my time going a distance to physically inspect the engine for which type it is, can I determine from the VIN or build date which type is in the car? By the way it's only got 49K miles on it for $6700 and appears to be cherry. HELP!