86BRATMAN

Was your brat a feedback carb model?

I'm not sure what the other plug goes to. I have one cluster with that coming out of it too. It's from an 87 ea81 hatch, the 83 carb and 84 turbo clusters I have don't have it. Maybe one of these days I'll pull the hatch cluster apart and find out lol. I'm going to guess since you have the extra plug that you have an 85-87 brat, which should have a fully functional ecs light socket. You may have to add a bulb holder to the cluster, but the spot will be there. If I remember correctly you'll have to add a wire to pin 1 of one of the round plugs to run the wire from the ecu. If you need a pigtail for this I can send you one, I've got a couple spare harnesses laying around that I wouldn't care to scavenge some more from.

Even getting an ea81 to ej22 power levels without forced induction is going to be a stretch without spending a good bit of money. You need to up the compression by changing the pistons, get an aggressive cam grind and deck the heads/block, Weber or spfi swap, upgraded ignition system are the basics. Porting the heads and manifold correctly will give a modest bump in power. I say correctly because it's not bigger is better, there are right and wrong ways to port heads. Hogging out the ports will do more harm than good.

I would just buy an oem one, they aren't that expensive. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322102916995

If you have an android phone or Bluetooth capable Android tablet I would recommend looking into BTSSM on legacygt.com, I used this app in conjunction with the obdlink mx from scantool.net on my 05 LGT. You'd be in for under $100 for the adapter, which can be used with the company's free obdlink app to scan codes on any obd2 equipped vehicle. BTSSM incorporates all of the romraider real-time datalogging capabilities, active code scanning and ecu reseting, and can also be used as a multi function gauge.

Take the speed sensor out of the transmission. Put the brat speedo cable in its place. Pull the cluster out of the dash, there is a plug coming out of the back of the speedo. It has two wires in it, ground the black wire and connect the yellow one to the vss wire off the ecu.

Blocking off those two tiny coolant lines will do nothing for performance. If you look at the intake manifold design you'll notice that the coolant crossover is cast together with the air passage. To get around this you would have to build a new manifold and coolant crossover, ram engines sells a manifold base plate with AN threads for coolant. You would need to figure out where to relocate your thermostat and how to plumb that in as well.

The forester driveshaft is several inches shorter than the legacy/outback driveshaft.

Will to bet you have one of the ej20x/y engines from a jdm 4th gen legacy. The early variant seems to be the most common, they don't have the air injection system installed on them. As such they're missing the atmospheric pressure sensor that is integrated into part of that system. The best way to fix this would be to use some of the parts off your old engine as seen in this write up. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2007-2009-air-pump-delete-cel-codes-and-ecu-fix-140259.html The 07-09 lgt uses the same engine as the 08-14 wrx (06-14 if we're talking longblocks), so this write up will be what you need.

Yes, you could. Some people have ran ej axles intact in ea82 5 lug swaps up front.

These parts and mods were used to do the front 5 lug swap on my hardtop while keeping the basic ea81 geometry intact. I have xt6 hubs and brakes on the back, doing it this way I don't have any funky track width mismatch or customized parts like you would using xt6 parts up front too. If I need to replace a control arm, I find another stock ea81 arm and spend 20-25 minutes reaming the ball joint hole and throw it on the car. Need an inner tie rod, buy one for the car and install it same for outer tie rods. Ball joints are any legacy or impreza joint from the parts store, same for the wheel bearings. Basically the most common wear items in the front suspension are 100% oem and available pretty easily. I'm off work tomorrow, I have a few things to take care of. But I'm sure I can find a little time to cover the bases of doing the front this way as opposed to some of the other methods that have been posted on here.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-10-Degree,29005.html https://febestparts.com/OUTER_CV_JOINT_22X56X27/0810-007 https://febestparts.com/INNER_JOINT_22X40X25/0811-1001 Those are the parts I used. I highly recommend buying different axle boots. I forget now if it was the inner or outer cv, but one of them came with boots that were too short in length for my liking. The grease in the kit seemed to be good quality, and they've held up well for 15-1600 miles. Which is better luck than I've had from parts store axles lol. You will need to disassemble a pair of axles to make sure these are compatible with the splines on the shaft itself. There were several possibilities for the axles when these things were made. Both of my donor axles were aftermarket, and both worked perfectly. So they may be a one size fits all type deal with the aftermarket axles.

I'll dig up the links for the axle parts and reamer for you tomorrow. I may be able to take some actual pics of the parts on the car Thursday.

He said his was carbureted, so it has to be a 4wd model. The carb cars don't have the baffling in the tanks like the efi models do. You should be good on the RX, but for the brat I would search out an 83/84 ea81t tank or invest in a surge tank.

I made axles for my hardtop, found a company that sells the inner and outer cv's new for legacys axles and they matched up with the splines of the ea81 axles that were in the car when I bought it. Bought a 10° ball joint reamer and modded the stock control arms, ej knuckles, modded impreza struts.

88-91 XT6 awd/4wd. Those are the only oem options for 5 lug on the 4wd ea cars. Same year range fwd XT6 fit fwd ea cars. I have found someone who will be selling a fwd 5 lug setup in the next few weeks. Price depending I'll end up with those parts.

Most all of the bearings and synchros for that transmission cross over to the early (90-94) legacy non turbo manual transmission.

Unfortunately no I don't Dean. I'll see what I can come up with though. I do know that the rotor itself for the 2wd and 4wd xt6 are different as far as hat height. By how much I don't know.

The Brat body was built until 92 and sold in some markets until 94 when the last of them were sold. They just stopped sending them here in 87.

The reason for my interest is because I just purchased a 2wd hardtop. I don't have any plans to 4wd swap it, and fwd xt6 hubs are harder to find than the 4wd versions.

Not all ej series water pumps are the same. The 90-05 na and turbo pumps (and a few random jdm na pumps) are different, turbo thermostat housing is on the front of the turbo and 06+ na pumps because the exhaust manifold would interfere with the housing if placed on the bottom. On the front facing thermo housing pumps there is an extra nipple for the oil cooler in the pump housing itself.

I had some stuff come up while we were waiting for them to get done. I had to withdraw from the buy unfortunately.

You can swap the oil cooler over. To do it you'll need a deep well 24mm socket, 14mm her socket, a new oil cooler o-ring from Subaru, and it would be a good idea to get new coolant hoses as well.

Price dependant I'd be up for a pair.

Well, I wouldn't say they won't fit any old gens. The xt6 and any 5 lug converted old gens could use these depending on brakes size.