86BRATMAN

Most parts store batabases have the oe plug type noted. At least they do where I buy plugs(advance auto). If you have an owners manual it should also be in there. Matter of fact I have one... NGK BKR6E-11

This is my stand piont on the issue at hand as well...

They are over near the throttle body on my mom's 98 legacy...

To my knowledge the ea71 was never a 1.8L

I believe he's needing the one for the radio console, the one that went around the automatic shifter and the one you have indicated in the picture. But thats my guess.

The engine designation is stamped onto the block near the distributor on the ea71/81. And in the same place on the ea82 but the distributor is on the drivers side head.

My POS computer is 8 years old and still kicking. Well sorta... Good to see you back. I was wondering why I hadn't seen you post in a while.

I could you a harness and let you take part, lol. As long as I get it back afterwards.

Awesome to see another convertor. People have used the ej radiator but there is a lot of cutting involved. General concinsus is that the ea81 radiator will be enough for the ej22. Search the retrofitting forum, there have been a few threads about it.

I've got three of those 8 spokes, they were on the 83 models. I've been looking for a center cap for the 84 4 spoke alloys. If you know of any let me know.

I think you'll be ok. I've seen a few people do this same thing, accidental reverse click. Motor stalls/shuts off. Pull over restart and drive away.

Might I ask what year is the t-brat, and what wheels are on it?

I'm a little late in the game on this one, and I've spoken with D on IM about it. We've all done some crazy and stupid things in our lifetimes. You live and you learn from mistakes. Or you die and hopefully somebody else learns from them, usually though other people will have the attitude "Man, that kid couldn't drive, I could have pulled it off" or "Glad it wasn't me who wants to go street race?" I have personally seen and heard both responses, and many more, when one of my friends was killed in a high speed incident that I spoke of in Tim's thread about the STi. I am ok with taking your life in your own hands, so to speak. But don't ever do something that would indanger somebody who you "care" about. I've done it before, and after I managed not to get caught racing one night, and got a hardcore lecture from a policeman friend of mine(who let me go with a heavy duty warning) I haven't done it with anymore. There are many good sanctioned events where this sort of thing can take place. If the kid really likes beating the hell out of wrx's he should look into rally-x. If he's loaded hell, rent a race track for a day and plow it up in the wall or something....

Waxing a car will make so much difference in your car's mileage that you won't even notice it. You'll actually be left with less money than if you had just left it dirty. Unless you have ginormous clumps of mud all over it, then yeah wash it before you go on that road trip...

I have an 87 STD Hatchback. 4spd 4wd ea81. And I drive the hell out of it on a daily basis. It had no tach, so I', going by memory from driving my brat, I'm shifting somewhere near 5k in 1 and 2 thats near 25mph in 1st and 45 in 2nd. For the two months I've had it my average mpg is 29.4 I haven't checked my air pressure, I assume them to be ok even though they are second hand and bald. The car hasn't been tuned up in the time I've had it. And I enjoy barking the tires in 2nd gear at every shift.

Are the tanks different inside on the turbo models?

I'll see if I can't get a price on one tomorrow for you... I'm in Tazewell VA. Not sure if you know where its at...

I'm not sure about the AUDM models in particluar. But if yours is the same as USDM, the speedo should have a plug like this coming out of the back of it. The one you need to be concerned with is the one with the black connector, the other is the egr reminder light switch. You'll need to wire the black to ground, and the yellow/red to the ecu pin for the vss.

You'll most likely have to pull the entire dash to remove all the wiring. And the ecu is behind that lowerpanel near the water line. Its a little iffy about whether water got to the ecu or not, It's too close to call based on that picture. On a side note, I might be interested in the steering column trim top and bottom and the peice by the tilt lever if you won't be using them. Also, just curious, did it have the digital or analog cluster?

That is indeed a good looking brat. Other than a few issues I'd say you've done good. What part of NC are you in? I know of a place up here you can get a fairly low mile ea81 4spd d'r from if it turns out to be the tranny.

This would be a neat little project like the xr4ti(?)/brat project.

If you are going to be using the motor you will need all of the harness from under the dash, it is very specific to that motor. Being that you won't ever find any other stock fi ea81's except for the ea81T. And the wiring differs slightly from the brat to the wagon and so on. Ecu should be mounted to the bottom of the steering column. If you are just stripping it to strip it there is no real need.

The tranny should swap out. You will have to contend with the 8 bolt v. 4 bolt though. Make sure the final drive matches as well. If you can't verify get the rear diff as well.

I've seen it recommended here for somebody wanting to have a rwd wagon that they disceonect the front axles and fuse the vccd by overheating it. Why then wouldn't this work for the fwd route as well. He's having torque bind. Ya know binding like a 4wd would in turns and such. This implies that the fried vccd HAS NOT turned into a open diff. But rather more like a welded diff. You'll be fine as long as you want to drive the car like this IMHO.

I'm still 24 for another 6 months and a few days...