86BRATMAN

I know the fellow, I'm pretty sure it had somewhere around 218k on the sensor...

Yes, lol, that is a bad one... While searching the threads you'll find a couple pictures I posted of where the sensor is if you have any trouble. www.rockauto.com is a good place to get them cheaper than dealer.

For those of us who don't have myspace, here's his new toy. I would like to add that this Brat is in really good shape compaired to some I've seen in and around his area. Good find!!!

If the car was overheated, chances are that the heads are slightly warped. Did you have them checked by a shop for warpage or just put them back on with new gaskets?

Look where the cable attaches to the pivot lever for the e-brake on the caliper. You should be able to grab onto it with a pair pf pliers. With the e-brake lever let all the way down in the cab, pull the cable toward the rear of the vehicle and lift it out through the slot in the arm. Now to simplify reinstalation, on the bracket you've taken the two bolts loose from, look where the cable goes through it, there should be a clip holding the cable in there, use a screwdriver or needle nose plier to remove that, then slide the cable back through the hole. Now if you've got a bench grinder with a wire brush you can take the bracket in and clean it up and hit it with some paint to prevent any more rusting. I've always left the bracket on the caliper myself and just removed the cable in this manner.

Not exactly the issue at hand but these cars have a timing belt.

It would make things very much simpler to keep the regular 4wd setup in the brat... Honestly, what I would do if it were me is find an ea82 5spd dual range 4wd tranny, and driveshaft. And get one of Jerry's(bratsrus1) kits to mnount it up real nice and stock like. Then do the adapter plate and motor swap. You can check with your local DMV for the availiblity of personal plates for your Brat. I'm in VA so it wouldn't matter if it was taken here or not...

There isn't at all not even for the short little hatch. The regular brat wagon ea81 shaft is about two inches too short, without making any definative measurements. I did some refiguring for it while I wasn't busy at work today and that is the one variable that I had left out of my equating...

Well he would sell it if the money was right. Probably not under 4k however...

Tires could be out of balance. Tie rods getting worn or ball joints as well.

The two worst parts are the miror and having to change the oil, cuz it looks like its all leaked out...

Right. If they were the same then a different driveshaft wouldn't be needed at all. I'll recheck my calculations when I find my notebook. But my line of thinking is this. The motor and trans mount in the same relative position in the cars. As do the read diffs. The distance between the two is what changes. Wouldn't the driveshaft change in proportion the the wheelbase as well. Edit:::: This only applies to using the driveshaft from a donor EJ car. Not using an ea82 driveshaft...

^^^Mild compared to what I would say about them....

Uh, yeah. I'm not a myspace person... However I take offence to your name, lol. If you want I will host the pics on my photobucket and post them here for the other non myspacers to see. iownasubaru@yahoo.com if ya wanna send them...

If the Legacy is early enough, as in before 95(i think) the rear axles will mate up perfect. No mods needed. For the 95? up with slide in stubs you will have to swap doj cups just like for the front. The driveshaft will need to be ~2 inches shorter. As long as it is from a 90-94 legacy, The 95-99's have a longer wheelbase, thus longer driveshaft. Rule of thumb... Get the wheelbase figures from both cars. Subtract and find the difference. It will need to be shortened by that much. To make the shift linkages fit into stock location for the brat they will need to be shortened by 2 inches. Alternatively you can find a 2wd center console(radio and shift area in one peice) and use it and not have to modify the linkages at all. Except where they mount to the car. Transmission crossmember is a custom job. I'm tinkering around right now and might make them available in the future. At the very least I'll do a write up of how to make it.

Or if you have crap for tranny mounts it will work the same way...

That would work too... Its just 2 12mm nuts... Would give you a little more moving around room. Too bad you aren't a little closer, I've had these swapped out in 15 minutes or less.

15" is the biggest I've heard of.... Oh and stay the hell away from the metric pug wheels....

Ahhh... Thats so early 90's.... Lol

Not gonna happen with the vibe wheels... Wheels are sold with usually two lug patterns yours will probably be 5x100 and 5x144.3. You can get chevy, toyota, nissan.... 6 lugs and redrill the hubs to accept 6 lug wheels, or redrill the wheels for the other two lugs... Or puegoet wheels with the same bolt pattern will work without modification.

DL model fwd...

Hmmm.... If you've got limber hands and can reach up in there through the bottom, put it in and plug them up afterwards.

That would be if you were going ej22t. Offroading a turbo won't be optimal, because it has to spool to make its power. For a regular ej22 you *can* use the stock ea81 4spd tranny, but they are notorious for having syncro problems, and bad gearing. The one in my hatch grinds just about every time into 3rd and half of the time into 4th. Best bet would be, if you wantto swap transmissions, to find an ea82 5spd dual range and two piece driveshaft. It'll take some fabbing up, but if you look up at the top right of your screen, in the USRM, there are a couple write-ups in there about how to do it. If you are using the search function of the site, it doesn't recognize words less than four letters.

Remove the metal plate that holds the top of the cluster. When you get the new one back in place you can slide that plate back in and screw it all together.

Lol, I had to put my plug in there for what I'm doing... As long as the structure is still sound, or even halfway sound. You can jack it up under the subframe rails, or use the middle of the engine crossmember, and the outsides of the crossmember right by the y-pipe for the jackstands. We still wanna see pics of your brat...