86BRATMAN

Yeah, thats a good price for one. My mom's is bad on her 98, and she has been putting it off because the parts stores tell her its dealer only.

I hope that its unplugged as well. But it probably won't be the case. These things are kinda pricey for a new one. But you could try posting a wanted thread in the classifieds to see if a member has a good extra one.

Here you go. The plugs are the blue and green ones. You've gotta put the lower panel on the driver's side of the daash below the steering column. Look near the fuse box and you should see this. Swapping the wires should reset your egr light. How many miles are on the brat, and how long has the light been on?

No the knock sensor is not the same thing. Smack that guy please. The knock sensor located at the back and on the drivers side of the motor. Look down between the intake manifold and throttle body. You should see something that looks like this beside the coolant passage. The thing you are looking at is the oil pressure switch that turns on the oil light on the dash.

How about getting a big sheet of cardboard and laying it under the front of the car overnight. That would keep it from getting on the pavement if its not leaking real bad.

I haven't done this in some time, and just recently got another ea81 vehicle, so by memory I can't really tell the colors. It's been like six years since I've seen an active egr light, lol. But I'll look in my hatch tomorrow in the daylight and get a picture or two of where and what they are.

That is a reminder light that comes on every 60k miles. The info in the owners manual says to have it serviced by a dealership. But there are three plugs under the dash, two of the same color and one different. You have to switch the plugs to "reset" the light. I can't remember the color of the connectors right now. But its nothing to worry about. However it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to take the egr valve off and give it a good cleaning, and check to make sure it still hold vacuum and moves freely. As for the temp, make sure you have a good functioning thermostat in there. If it is stuck open the motor will hardly ever come to full operating temps.

If it were me, I'd also take some extra plugs and wires, Radiator/heater hoses, fuel pump, and maybe a change of oil. Since you don't know much about the car it can't hurt. Also, I just want to say good luck, and we're all counting on you.

Not a clue as to the digi-dash application of the sensor. BTW which car is this in?

Thats not too bad of a price. I could use one of them for my small projects, like rust repair and my other upcoming project

Maybe Its been too long since I've seen an ea81 with power steering. But, do they all look that way on the non turbo's?

Yeah, I've never liked the r134a systems, they just aren't as efficent coolers as the old stuff.

As far as I know there are no kits to fix this problem. You can modify the strut blocks to move the strut inward to fix it some, or do the control arm like Phizinza did. Either way just takes some time and work. Good luck, and keep us posted.

Well, I wonder if the burnt valves have been primarily on #4. That would explain a lot.

Matty B fitted his distributor from a Subaru Fiori, whatever that is..

The ej18 for sure did, as well as the ej15 and ej16 that we never saw. And I know I have read that the ej22 did as well.

I know nothing of which you speak.... If you wanna see a cracked up one, I'll shoot you a pic of the one on the ej22t I'm rebuilding. On a side note, would this relocation be the thing to do if a motor(non turbo variety of course) has a busted up one, but not throwing a code for it?

Yeah thats kinda wierd. Got any pics? Where did you get the jdm ea81? And is it a dual port?

Well sounds like you've done your research on it. If others haven't reported problems then go for it.

There are some posts concerning the hesitation problems. Some causes can be knock sensor, o2, maf, bad plug wires, and an extremely rare to subaru bad torque convertor. Do you have a check engine light? Any other symptoms? How does the car act if you floor it from a stop? BTW... Nice looking car. Look in the Offroad forum. And search for entries like "impreza lift" "outback struts" "king springs" and stuff of that nature.

It looks to me like it was once used as a protocar for back to the future part 4. you know the world of 2060 when they went back and comandered old gens because they were extinct.

You won't have a cel because the sensor is still conected. However I would look into the possibility that the knock sensor was doing its job when retarding your timing. It does this when a knock/ping is detected. You may not be able to hear it, but the sensor can. May want to try upgrading the fuel grade you use, and put the sensor in it's stock location. And see if that helps.

If you are in norway you should be able to find a disty for your ej motor. Some of the ej series were available, outside of the us only, with distributors and carbs. Search for posts by monstaru and mattyB for some insight into this.

It really does make a difference. I wouldn't condone this sort of thing(or would I). Think about all the pre-convertor era cars and all the stuff they throw into the air. They will give off more emisions than a modern vehicle without a cat any day of the week.

Our 06 2.5i is slow reading sometimes as well. I'm not really to concerned to be honest. Its just another electronic device to go bad over time.