86BRATMAN

+5,000,000,000 These "small" things could be compounding something small like plugs and wires.

search classic garage on yahoo. it came up in the first few links for me.

You can count on that. Its the newest car either the wife or I have had, we got it with just shy of 30k on the clock. She's having a little trouble adjusting to its bigger size(coming from a civic) But other than that she's doing good. Planning on having this one untill the wheels fall off of it in 30 years or so:grin:

Yeah, it probably could have, if your spline are worn out on the hub it'll give it more room to play around in there. My white brat back in the day had a bearing go out on the d/s twice in about 3k miles. After the second set was installed, about a week later the hub stripped out on my dad.

I guess I'll get into this too. First off is my rusty ol' 86 Brat. I've had it for about 6 years now. It needs a lot of tlc, and for me to figure out the wiring for the ej22 swap:dead: . Just played around with some extra 2wd struts and springs today and lowered the front about 2.5 inches. I'm still not sure of its ultimate fate. It has a whole bunch of rust, she may just be the test mule for all the ej parts for when I find another one I can get my hands on. But I'm gonna do my best to save it in the meantime. And this is our 06 Legacy 2.5i, had it for about a week now and we're still getting use to her.

I wish my wife would learn some body work, and other car stuff. You must be a rare woman. Rock on!!!

Do you have access to a timing light, you could probably tell a little bit from that.

Some of the fenders are different, but I think thats just 80-81 models. Stuff after 82 should be good to go. If you are going to be changing out the whole hub assy, go ahead and get 83.5+ stuff with the venter front discs for better braking. But in short ea81=ea81.

Chiltons is a pretty good one for most stuff, untill you get to wiring and such, if you can find a FSM for your year that would be the way to go.

I think he means the rotating shaft where it lets the air into the manifold. Look at the backside of the iac where it bolts to the manifold.

I know where a few are if you'd wanna pay cost and sctual shipping for them. Would be friday at the earliest before I could get to the yard.

Some states will absolve the salvage title if you fix it and have it inspected by the DOT. The reissue a clean title and send you on your way.

Not to mention that the wouldn't have the power to overcome the drag created by the aerodynamic properties of the car.

What are your plans for the wagon. You want to keep it stock height, lower it, or lift it? If you wanna give it the lowered street stance you could use a set of coilovers for an impreza, or honda civic(most coilover kits are generic). They are pretty cheap off ebay, can be had for under $100 shipped.

89 was the last year of the ea81 Hatchback. They are kinda rare beasts though. I'll go out and check my hatch in a little bit to see how it does.

Or if you are dead set on turbo'd, Buy a nice ej** turbo and do it right the first time.

D/R 5spd swap?

I would prefer the ea82 style shaft over the ej myself. I don't like the whole not really a two piece two piece design on the ej's

No for removing cam and crank. You'll have to pull the outer t belt covers, loosen the cam bolts(don't remove yet), remove timing belt(good time for a new one), pull the cam sprokets and crank gear and all the inner covers. Best way to get the front main seal(crank seal) is to remove the oil pump, make sure you've got some sort of seal puller. The cam seals are in a thing(can't remember technical name) held to the head by 3? bolts on each side. Remove them and replace seals, there are also o-rings on the side of these where it conects to the head replace them too. From there you are ready to put it back together, follow reverse order of teardown. Make sure you get the timing marks lined up right for the t-belt. If you don't have a service manual, might want to invest as it'll have torque specs and picutes along with the write-ups for the timing and such.

Damn, thats pretty cheap, good find!!!

To get at the crank sensor, take the belt off the alt and ps pump, fully remove the bolt through the tensioner into alt. And move the alt out of the way enought to get a 10mm with an extension to the bolt holding it into place. The wires will feed under the coolant crossover pipe and plug in at the back of the motor. The connectors for the cam and crank look similar, IIRC one is black and one is white. The crank sensor should be checked for pulse with it still bolted into place, as nipper said, it has to read voltage as the motor turns. Good luck.

You and me both. They would be worth looking at either way. For my area dealer retail on the 88 is about $500.

Anything with the ej25 phase 1 dohc has the head gasket issues. Phase 2 sohc was started in 99 for the impreza rs and 00 for the legacy lineup. Begining in MY02 all n/a subaru's were ej25 phase 2.

Green connectors are part of the diagnostic system. They are meant to be loose like that. You can do the seals with the motor in. Hell I've done head gaskets with the motor in... Rear suspension isn't hard to change, but get a full alignment job done imediately afterwards.

Should be a three wire plug, two coolant lines, the hose you are missing, and 4 10mm bolts, then the metal gasket. My t-leg is doing the same thing right now. The hose broke off resinator box. Might be worth trying a piece of heater hose to conect it to the air intake before taking it apart.