86BRATMAN

I hope it runs man. That body damage is nothing a few hits with a bfh can't take car of. I've seen much worse fixed in my driveway:grin:

Is it one you already own or looking to buy. Usually if its at a lot they will run one for you at no charge

I'm with john on this one. Any exhaust shop worth a red cent can weld or patch up a crack. No real need for a specialist here.

Good call I was still waking up when I worte that...

I've got all the parts you'd need for the install here form a 90 ls awd 5spd wagon. PM me an offer if interested.

Good deal, I hope that will finally get your proplems straightened out. If you have access to a strap wrench, one of the chain style adjustable pil filter wrenches. You can put a piece of an old belt around the pulley and use the strap wrench to hold it from turning while taking out the crank bolt. I've done this on a couple honda's and its worked out pretty good. If you've got an extra set of hands it's easier though. Good Luck.

IIRC the nissan pulsar's my buddy has have plastic end tanks on them

Thats right. I'm not too keen on the 1st gen stuff. But the ea81 is a prety good running motor for what it is. And there are a good bit of parts made for them through the aviation people. It's not uncommon for them to make 150 crank hp. And in the gen1's which iirc weigh just under a ton, would be a damn nice little sleeper.

Ea71 4spd correct, you are probably about 18-19 sec range. the auto fact on the turbo ea81's kill any hope of good 1/4 mile or 1000m times I've honestly never seen any older subaru at the local track. I've seen a gen 1 legacy auto running 17's a few years back.

Could have been what I read. It's been a while since I looked into the lift stuff...

Its much easier imho, no 180* rotation, easier to see timing marks, and a little more room to work between the motor and radiator

Never been in one, but from power rating and autotragic and weight standpoint. Honestly it would be lucky to pull mid 18's

Some people have used the longer ea82 axles in ea81 cars to help with the breakage problem, might want to look into that.

Any time he did it he got smacked, HARD. He thought it was funny that his car could do it. I always told him he won't think its funny when he has to replace the clutch at 40k without my help. If there is one thing I don't like is blatent abuse of a vehicle like that. It's just like a wrx owner launching at 6k every day and then wondering why his tranny broke....

Which motor is in it 2.2 or 2.5, I think both were offered in 98. When was the last time the timing belt was changed? My mom has a 98 legacy 2.2l with 169k on it, routine maintaince is the key to long life in anything. If it has been taken car of well then its probably just broken in for a subaru, imho. I have seen one legacy we've oned go over the 300k mark, i'm swapping in a 217k mile old ej22 into my brat. Just bought a 91 turbo legacy with 178k. Subaru's have a long life span.

Thats not always true of the clutch, my buddy had an 01 RS that would pull out in 3rd without much effort at all from a dead stop, And that was with a 23k old clutch

I would say print off all your research and put it in their laps. I got 4k knocked off my mother in-laws 02 accord with just one document showing the true value of the car. When they know you know what you are talking about they usually give up trying to screw you. The "whine" could be the intake sucking air in, my mom's 98 does this up around 3.5-4k rpm. Also you'll not have to worry about torque bind in a manual, I should have been a little bit better when talking about that in part 2. Just make sure to point out every last tiny insignificant detail of what you noticed wrong with the car. Do you know how long its been sitting at the dealership, if its been there a little bit you are more likely to get a better deal because they just want to move it out.

My first thought is the exhaust manifold gaskets. Start it up and let it idle, go and lay on the ground and get up under the front if you can to see if you can tell more about exactly where it is. If it is these gaskets I'd probably keep driving to a minimum, its sometimes hard to do with a dd car. But as long as you are having it looked at this friday it shouldn't do anything bad.

I'll drink to that my friend.

I thought the same thing about the auto situation on those. ES-X switched to an auto a few years back in their drag cars because they were having axle problems, and driver error can make a manual much slower than it should be. Personally I don't know about a 500awhp car, but I have driven a couple 300whp front driver turbo cars that have driven as smooth as silk even with heavy duty clutch systems and lightweight flywheels. Not the mention an old friend of mine's 435 awhp 04 STi that drove no different than the stock STi's I've been in.

It sill bolt straight in place of yours, but I wouldn't bother with that right now. The stock 5MT can handle a good bit of power if you don't mistreat them. I've been doing a lot of research on the transmissions from wrx's, it seems like a lot of people break them. Got on a few translated japanese sites and nowhere near as many problems from them. So that leaves two things either they got superior equipment or america's wrx owners flog the crap out of them more often than they do.

My thoughts exactly:headbang:

Well I'm gonna keep mine stock height, if not lowered a bit. I sincerely doubt it'll ever see 490 awhp though, but jesus that would be sweet.

I forgot he was across the pond, with that look at your stock rear diff and see what it has. Over here the only ones to get a 3.70 were the turbo's.

Could also be half wheel drive lol, what year is your dsm?