86BRATMAN

Interesting, thats a good bit cheaper than I expected, do they disassemble everything, or do you send it in parts to them?

I've got a friend with a wrx, and he's got around 300awhp, he's been thinking of cryo treating his gears because of the breakage issues

There is a problem with the axles being too long as well, If its possible to put xt6 outer cv and axle stub onto ea81 that would probably be the best way to go, or custom up some axles like rguyver did on his brat, try searching through his posts. he also used a slightly moddified ea81 strut mated to the xt6 hub.

Who are you having do the cryo treating, and how expensive are they? If its somebody local to you I may be bringing some stuff that way later in the spring/ early summer, as my brother lives in Jacksonville nc

I've been browsing around on ebay, found some drilled and slottoed rotors listed for the ea82 cars, any chance that these will fit on a gen2 brat?

I was told the same thing by my machinist a while back. The shape of that area creats a venturi effect similar to a carb's. And removing this, while it would theoreticly increase flow, would hinder more that it would help.

Monstaru did it on his 86, maybe shoot him a pm

Don't know if they are availible from dealers now or not, but they are all 2wd and 4wd alike part number 7210 33010

I would agree with the rear drums on the brighton model, the 95 legacy wagon I had was a brighton and had rear drum brakes. If you do get a tt motor, it would probably be easier to rhd swap your car than to keep the tt setup with lhd

I made some progress today... Got the axles pulled out of the std hatch, and put them together with the legacy doj cups, and got them installed in the brat. Trans is all bolted up to the motor and lined up correctly underneath. I'm still a little worried about how close it is to the trans tunnel, it looks like its pretty much stitting on it. Also got the measurements for the custom crossmember I'll be making at work sometime in the coming week. Hopefully I'll get some pictures real soon. Too nice of a day here to waste it with a camera

Lord, one vw guy around use to build these things alot, he used a lot of jumpseats in his run of making them. My dad almost gave him the set that were in my white brat when the seat frame broke... After catching a mean spirited ***************ing that was quickly thwarted

I'm in the southwest va mountians, and proud to be one of three brat owners in the area

Well the engine itself will fit with minimal room on either side, the trans however is a pain, its a lot wider than a 4spd d/r and need a custom crossmember made. Depending on how big a lift it won't be as much trouble with fitment though

Also, if you can find a very early model ej20g, i think any made before 10/94 they are closed deck, but good luck on that...

I like the ej22t for its closed deck design, legacy central has a good comparison picture in its library if you don't know the difference between open and closed. If you've got a heart find a rust bucket t leg. Thats what I thought I was buying when I heard the description of the one I bought. I only gave $200 for the whole car, and we drove it home. Set of plugs and wires and it ran smooth as it was new, and as soon as the radiator comes in and I get a windshield put in it'll be a good as new $600 t leg

Well given the options, and ultimate potential of most of the motors in question, a factory turbo motor would be a best bet. If you can find an ej22t out of the 91-94 turbo legacy I would recommend it for it's closed deck design, and that with propper tune it can hold 23 psi every day plus some for the heck of it. There are plenty of people who have put these type of swaps into the GC8 body, basically you'll need(for turbo motor) a wrx/turbo legacy engine crossmember, full wiring from dash forward, transmission and matching rear differential that will hold the power, time money and patience. There is a whole lot more but I did say basically.

My mom's 98 legacy does a really annoying thing similar to what is being descirbed here. But it lunges forward and falls on its face and tries to stall if you nail it from a stop.

You, sir, would be correct. However on both the brat and legacy I've recently removed the d/s from I had to have two wrenches. The flange didn't hold the bolts at all from turning.

When I got my new place we pulled my brat on a tow dolley, didn't disconnect anything. Granted it wasn't a long trip, maybe like 20 miles. But it didn't have any problems that I notcied

Remember you'll be using the ej wiring and maf sensor, it is 12v and i've seen people using an Safc with them

I think i saw somewhere that megasquirt won't work on an ej motor,

I thought 145hp was a bit much for a low comp, but only reason I have it is because my brother thought it would be a good refference point, and gave it to me for my birthday many years back. Its good for ecu codes,

not to mention what U.S. Customs would have to say when they open the box up

I've got a set of gen 1 headrest installed in my gen 2 brat, I drilled out a new hole for the top bolt on them about 3/4 -1 inch up from the existing hole. I don't have any gen2's to compare to damn 86...

Isn't that kinda a contradiction guys?