86BRATMAN

No, all ej18 throttle bodies are the same. The the gears that make the difference. You cannot physically swap the cams between phase 1 and phase 2. You are creating more work for yourself by doing the head swap, and it's work that doesn't need to be done honestly. As for removing the crank bolt, 22mm socket and a 2' breaker bar wedged against the ground bump the starter and you'll break the bolt free.

It's not going to like it, at all. Your only chance of getting this running is to swap out the crank timing gear and LH cam gear. The trigger patter on them are different from phase 1 and the engine will never start. The ecu also cannot control the phase 2 idle air control valve. The only way to get around that is to use a 93-97 ej18 throttle body. It is the only phase 1 throttle body to have an integrated iacv, the ecu will control it with no issues. You will have to make a plate to go between the manifold and throttle body to seal off the phase 2 iacv air port. Pull the throttle body and you'll see what I'm talking about. I have used this method to run a phase 2 engine on a phase 1 car, and trust me it's the only way to do it and have things work like it should. The only part that I never bothered with is egr, if your phase 1 is egr equipped there is no way to make the phase 2 egr valve cooperate.

Quick question, is your crankshaft timing gear lined up to the arrow on the front of the gear or the notch on the nubs on the back?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=104513

It was MY99 here in the US, I'm unsure if that was true worldwide as our model year guidelines are slightly different. What the Japanese and Australian market calls a 99 Legacy is what we call a 00. The phase 1 and phase 2 sohc engines are easy to distinguish from each other though. Phase 1 sohc motors have the head bolts and raised ridges on the valve covers, phase 2 sohc engines have larger smooth valve covers that hide the head bolts.

The biggest difference as it would matter to this application is that the ej20e is phase 1 and the ej202 is phase 2. They are not electronically compatible, you will need to find another phase 2 ej202 to replace yours.

On am interference engine I don't usually let them get anywhere close to 105k, the biggest cause of belt failure is one of the idlers chucking a bearing. I try to do them in the 75-80k range or less, and usually I find an idler with more play than it should have. When I did my mom's 04 outback's belt last year it had about 60k on the job according to paperwork from the PO and it was really close to loosing the bearing in the cogged idler by the water pump.

The hose doesn't go to the block, the large hose off the iacv goes to the intake tube. The large port in the block isffor the pcv system.

This thread should be titled power mode for 95-98 tcus, all 99+ tcus are phase 2 and the wiring change is different from phase 1s. I have seen the power mode mod for phase 2 tcus online, just search for it.

Nope, the blocks are exactly the same.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzTxUgzNAbd8cEJjXzN2Znk5djg/edit?usp=docslist_api Here's a link to that transmission code list.

I've got an 04 Outback at home that I'm working on, I'll trytto take a couple pics tomorrow and post them for you.

The exhaust manifold and water pump are stock. The jdm/audm market ej25d had a very turbo like exhaust routing, and thus needed the turbo style water pump to match. Use your exhaust system on the jdm motor. The egr bypass will work, just look on the forum for threads about this. I think there is one in the USRM for using a non-egr ej22 in place of an ej25d, the egr bypass will work the same as detailed in that thread.

Your only bolt on, no modification, scooped hood option is from a 98-02 jdm forester turbo.

A lot of those spring diameters are wrong. All 93-03 imprezas have the same rear upper spring diameter which is also the same as all 92-99 legacys. The 90/91 legacy and 04-07 impreza/forester have the same rear upper spring diameter also.

That launch is pretty inspiring for the hybrid transmission. I think you'll find the best way you do a 5 lug swap with brake upgrade possibilities will be to get some XT6 rear hubs, modify the bolt holes on some legacy/impreza rear disc backing plates to fit the ea swing arm, and mod a legacy e-brake handle and custom length e-brake cables. That will allow you to use virtually any modern subaru rear brake system you want. For the front the only xt6 specific parts you would need would be the lower control arms, and sway bar (20mm sway bar). I would recommend using an ea82t crossmember and ea82 power steering rack, this will require some modification to fit the chassis since the frame rails are narrower on the ea81. There are pictures on the forum showing what is needed for this. But it will give the front a wider track, and using legacy/impreza knuckles and struts you can use axles from any 90-99 legacy or 93-01 impreza with the ej transmission installed with zero modifications. Also by using the more modern front knuckles you'll have access to virtually limitless brake upgrades for the front as well. As for the rear diff, you'll find it very much impossible (without expensive custom axles) to use an r180 diff back there, best bet would be an ea82t clutch pack limited slip chunk fitted into any 3.90 open diff rear. You'll of course have to grind a couple spots in the open diff housing for clearance for the lsd center. But it's a basically bolt in affair. And you will retain the use of stock rear axles for future replacements. I have done a good bit of planning for something similar to what you are planning. I've been patiently waiting for the right brat or coupe to modify to turn up, so I've ran through a lot of the scenarios for mods/upgrades in my head already. When I get to a computer I'll try to post some more detailed information, I'm on my phone and if I jump around windows too much it loses everything I've typed. Happened to me the other evening when I was getting my photobucket link for the head gasket picture lol.

I'm all for learning more too, if his is holding up well in a legacy with the robtune setup then it should be more than capable in an ea body. Depending on his response I might look into it as a future mod, as it would sure be cheaper than a dccd transmission, and I know where I can pick up an xt6 manual for cheap.

To run the xt6 transmission you'll need an ea2ej adapter plate, and it will limit your clutch choices to, well very little, unless you have a custom clutch made. And having driven both stock ej viscous center awd transmissions and center lockers, for street duty you want the viscous coupling awd. The locking unit while unlocked can present very, unpredictable wheelspin situations while taking curves and accelerating. And when locked will push through like truck in 4wd. While the rx/xt6 center diff swap is a novel idea, it is relying on parts that were never designed to take the power you're looking at making, even though it will be stressed to a lesser degree in the lightweight body.

Obd 2 wiring harnesses are laid out in a way that it's much easier to strip and run for a swap into an ea series car. Basically all the sensors will interchange with the exception of the tps, 90-94 use a 4 wire and 95-98 use a 3 wire. The cam and crank sensors are also different, but can be made to work since the output signal is identical. But, you won't find an obd2 ecu that can run this turbo engine as it should, and the rob tune ecu won't plug into the newer harness. Added to that there are no ej20g ecus that are obd2 equipped, so that negates the benefits of the newer harness. Would be best to just stick with a 91-94 turbo legacy harness (or na harness and add the wiring for the boost control and other turbo specific items) and run with that. You can still retrieve codes fairly easily with subaru obd1 electronics, and there are a few data logging softwares available specifically for them, again basically negating the obd2 being a better option.

Honestly it's probably not going to be worth lowering the compression any lower than the stock 8:1 on the 22t. It's already lower than pretty much any modern turbo engine, and right in line with the turbo engines of its era. The off boost driving would be fairly sluggish, and it would increase the spool time of the td05 you're wanting to run. Money would be better spent on a set of na ej22e fuel rails, sti yellow top 525cc injectors and a rob tune ej20g ecu. With some port work to the heads, and the above mentioned supporting mods you'd be in the 250 crank hp range with a decent bit more torque since that's where the ej22e/t heads shine because of their port design.

That head gasket is for the NA ej22e, the coolant ports on them are different from what is needed for this application. I took this picture several months ago to illustrate that the sohc ej25 heads were suitable for use on an ej22 bore,at the time those were the only ej22 gaskets I had laying around. You would need 99-01 phase 2 ej222 gaskets or 91-94 ej22t gaskets for the coolant ports to match the heads in this application. I haven't seen any indication that the coolant ports are different enough to be an issue with sohc ej25 heads on the ej22t. But there are several issues worth noting for what you're wanting to build and the car you're putting it in. First is just a general issue with using phase 2 sohc heads in a turbo application. There is interference between the uppipe and the head, you can make it work but I'm not sure what it entails. Searching on rs25.com or nasioc should provide the answer to that. Second is another issue using those heads on a turbo application. There is no provision for oil or coolant feed and return on them since they were never offered with a turbo. There are ways around that, one of which is to use an oil galley plug adapter to feed oil to the turbo, which is something not hard to do. The drain can be tapped into the valve cover quite easily, but this will be cutting it close on space in the ea81 engine bay. Coolant is usually an easy fix on na-t ej251s since all ej era cars have constant coolant flow through the heater core. On these cars you can plumb the turbo in-line with the heater hoses. This will be a no go in the ea81 car because there is a heater control valve that shuts off all coolant flow to the heater core when the dial is turned off heat. So you would either have to run with the heater control valve open or plumb in a secondary bypass system to feed the turbo independently of the heater core. A more minor problem is that the uppipe support brackets won't mount to the phase 2 sohc heads, something could be fabbed to work though. All in all if it were me I would keep stock ej22t heads for this application, just to simplify things. All the other mods needed to run the turbo on the phase 2 sohc heads would create potential failure points down the road. And there is decent potential in the ej22t heads as they are, a properly done port and polish, along with swapping in 96-98 ej22e cams and rocker rockers would really wake the engine up. And let's face it, even stock ej22t power in an ea81 hatch will feel like a rocket compared to the 73 hp they came with.

Just for reference this is a 00 ej251 head with a 90-98 ej22e gasket sat on it.

There is no bore mismatch with sohc ej25 heads, they have the same combustion chamber as the phase 2 ej222. And you can use off the sheet gaskets, either the 1.5mm ej22t or 0.8mm 99-01 ej222 gasket will be right for this build, which one you use depends on where you want your compression ratio.

The most common cause of poor mileage on these cars after worn plugs and bad wires are the engine coolant temperature sensor (the 2 wire one that talks to the ecu) and the knock sensor. The temperature sensor throws no code when it's going south, it simply tells the ecu the engine is cold. When the engine is cold it dumps more fuel to "warm" it up, which never happens so it keeps throwing more fuel than is needed at the motor. The knock sensor cam also fail without a code (they do sometimes throw codes but not always) when it starts to fail the ecu will pull timing and throw in more fuel to combat the knock.

I don't know where you're getting 160hp for a ej25 with ej22e heads considering the ej25d made 155hp in 96 and 165hp for 97-99. Your best bet would be some sort of sohc ej engine, the dohc ej's are too wide for the ea81 engine bay so the frame rails have to be cut and reinforced. There are some pics in older threads here that show the modification needed for this. Personally, I've always felt the ej22e would be about perfect for the weight of the brat. Anything more I feel would really be pushing the rest of the drivetrain and suspension. Now if you want to talk about awd swapping and retrofitting newer suspension stuff then that's another story.